3-Point Hitch 3 point hitch won't lift

[JC-jetro]

I guess I'm confussed... Isn't the valve assembly what you've pictured with the springs and ball bearings? More importantly, isn't this what I'm supposed to take out to run the test for flow?

Or am I supposed to take out the plug on the opposite side to test the flow. I believe this plug is where a pressure tester is screwed in so I'm somwhat hesitant to have it open with maybe 2200 psi hyd fluid shooting at me.

Thanks,

Scott

We use terms valves, spool valves and check valves kind of loosely. What i recommended not messing with is the spool valve. Look at the pic below.

you see the banjo connection, that is the discharge from the top going to main pressure relief device and the spool valve itself. Don't mess with that yet. in the previous post I showed how the valve looks from the inside of lift housing. The spools are highly machined rods with porting and such that it is difficult to open up and put back together without damage.

No, you will not get 2200 psi shooting at you if it is full flow. pressure is cuase by resistance to flow, I still don't stand in front of it or Pull " Curley" with Moe and Larry watching. Conversely if you read 2200 psi does not mean you have flow. I can flow 0.1 gall/minute @ 5000 psi. Your tractor I think should have about 5-7 gpm so with the system open you'll get a heavy stream of low pressure fluid coming out. @ 7 gall/minute you put less than a gallon of fluid in a 5 gallon bucket.

JC,

 

[sevans]

Yup... valves, spools, checks can all be confusing.

Just so I'm very clear... this is the assembly I'm to remove giving me the 2 springs and ball bearings in your previous post?




My instructions (like baking a cake):

• Remove the above assembly
• Start the tractor with the lift lever fully down (shouldn't get any flow at this point)
• let it come up to operating temp
• raise the lever and collect the hyd fluid that comes out

Is there any need to measure/time the flow or are we just looking for flow?

 

[JC-jetro]

Yup... valves, spools, checks can all be confusing.

Just so I'm very clear... this is the assembly I'm to remove giving me the 2 springs and ball bearings in your previous post?

View attachment 108511


My instructions (like baking a cake):

• Remove the above assembly
• Start the tractor with the lift lever fully down (shouldn't get any flow at this point)
• let it come up to operating temp
• raise the lever and collect the hyd fluid that comes out

Is there any need to measure/time the flow or are we just looking for flow?

Yup, It's "shake and bake". What I do is to only remove the outer bolt, stiff spring and the little ball only. Rest can be kept in tact on the tractor.

Well, I'm fixing to head out of town to drive my son back to college, will not be here till tomorrow.

Jc, Over and out

Ps. forget about the operating temp, we're checking the flow, as soon as engine is running I check the flow, arm down=no flow, are going up =stating to flow. No flow one way and another and I then start scratching my head. Keep us posted.

 

[sevans]

Thanks a bunch... have a safe trip.

 

[sevans]

Well... I got no flow!

Fearing I was looking at a new hyd pump I called NH for a price. $834

I told them what I was doing and they sent me to a service guy who said...

• He's worked on about 50-60 1710's where the 3 pt wouldn't lift and 9 out of 10 times it's a dirty control assembly (something inside is stopped up).
  
• Said that if the FEL works then it's not the hyd pump (I'm not sure this is true)
  
• Said to take off the 7 bolts holding the assembly and the whole thing would come out as one piece.
  
• Said to soak it in solvent, blow it off with air, then soak it again.
  
• Said only 3 times did he actually "see" what caused the stoppage but again 9 out of 10 times just soaking the assembly fixed the problem.

I did what he said here's what it looks like.





I'm trying to find out what solvent to soak it in and should have it back together later this afternoon.

It was really easy to take apart and JC is right about how great the engineering is on these tractors.

 

[JC-jetro]

Well... I got no flow!

• He's worked on about 50-60 1710's where the 3 pt wouldn't lift and 9 out of 10 times it's a dirty control assembly (something inside is stopped up).
  
• Said that if the FEL works then it's not the hyd pump (I'm not sure this is true)
  
• Said to take off the 7 bolts holding the assembly and the whole thing would come out as one piece.
  
• Said to soak it in solvent, blow it off with air, then soak it again.
  
• Said only 3 times did he actually "see" what caused the stoppage but again 9 out of 10 times just soaking the assembly fixed the problem.

I'm trying to find out what solvent to soak it in and should have it back together later this afternoon.

It was really easy to take apart and JC is right about how great the engineering is on these tractors.

Hmm, What you have in the picture is 3 point lift spool valve. The thing I suggested not to dork up till as the absolute last option. Look at the pdf below that shows the innards of the spool valve. Taking it off is not what I'm concerned, it is putting together after cleaning without damage. I see evidence of moisture and rust on the spool but what's going on inside I don't know. What kind of solvent is he talking about as as I'm concerned with damage to orings if wrong solvent is used. If you just soak it in solvent it may just clean the outside but the blockage is in the inside of the spool area. As you manipulate the lift arm the two parts of the valve will separate ( the spring will be stretched) causing the spool to move in and out and that may be enough to spray wd-40 in there for a bit of soaking and then air to blow it out.

Now, does your FEL work? if it does , the tech is right about the flow and the pump , I don't think you have two stage hyd pump on 1710 and one pump does both 3 pt lift and implements like FEL.

If you really feel brave and adventurous, I'd take the tie rods and spring off, and remove nut #6 and #9 one at the time to remove spool#24 for inspection and cleaning if needed. I'll do the same for hyd valve #12. There is a bunch of nick knacks in there that you may not be able to buy individually and may be forcing you to buy the whole spool. I think that should run you maybe a little less than the hyd pump but still pretty pricey. I hope that guys would chime in with their opinion.

JC,

 

[sevans]

I didn't expect you back (or online) today. Wish I had waited...

What I posted before about his comments 'were' accurate as of yesterday. What he failed to tell me was I would have to take the thing apart; yesterday he said, take out the 7 bolts and soak it.

I called him today regarding what solvent to use because I had the same concern about the o-rings and he said gasoline or naptha. That's when he told me I'd have to take it apart.

I didn't get your response until just now so what I've done so far is to take off the linkage and remove the valve assembly from the mounting plate. I have not, nor intend to, jack with the 2 double nutted adjusting rods.

I couldn't get the 2 bolts (#6 and #9) off the front to get to all those very small and numerous parts so I'm soaking the whole thing. I doubt this will work in that on the top of the housing is a hole and that carmelized rust you see has made it down into that hole and the guts of the assembly.

If I have to take the thing apart it will have to wait until my neighbor gets home so I can use his vice (the one thing I sold and ended up needing - go figure.

Thanks for the help...

 

[sevans]

From a closer inspection of the pdf (thanks) each cylinder is independant and not an open forum for the rust to migrate to all cylinder and parts.

He said not to mess with the double nuts but to take off the plate (#10) and soak it. If I do as he says and not jack with the double nuts then I cannot remove the middle and lower cylinder parts. If I take off the plate then it looks like only 3 parts are in the top clyinder (#15, #8, #7). If there is no migration of rust to the other 2 clyinders then maybe a good soaking will do the trick without having to take those two apart.

Your thoughts?

 

[JC-jetro]

I didn't expect you back (or online) today. Wish I had waited...



I doubt this will work in that on the top of the housing is a hole and that carmelized rust you see has made it down into that hole and the guts of the assembly.

..

Little bit of WD-40 on the outside and a dremmel tool and brass brush can do a good job on rust removal. Are you sure that the rust is all the way through ?? If it is... (hard to believe) I'm sure the spool can not direct the flow properly. look at the pic below., that is the normal safety relief valve that returns fluid in to the sump thru the spool valve. It takes 3 bolt and you can take the assembly off from the outside. you'll find 3 holes and 3 orings as I recall. I'd just spray thru those hole in to the innards of the spool , let it soak and get compressed air in there to blow and hope for the best

JC,

 

[JC-jetro]

From a closer inspection of the pdf (thanks) each cylinder is independant and not an open forum for the rust to migrate to all cylinder and parts.

He said not to mess with the double nuts but to take off the plate (#10) and soak it. If I do as he says and not jack with the double nuts then I cannot remove the middle and lower cylinder parts. If I take off the plate then it looks like only 3 parts are in the top clyinder (#15, #8, #7). If there is no migration of rust to the other 2 clyinders then maybe a good soaking will do the trick without having to take those two apart.

Your thoughts?

in order to take #10 out , you'll need to take #6 and #9. Plate is #17 and manipulation of that is what moves the spool in and out. I responded before I read your post, again soaking can also be done like I explained by taking pressure relief valve as well.


Jc,