3-Point Hitch 3 point hitch won't lift

[sevans]

Yes, I'm now sure the rust is inside the top cylinder and parts.

Note on the pdf that the 2 #20's are o-rings in holes that expose the guts of the bottom 2 clyinders. What isn't shown in the pdf is the hole directly on top of the whole unit (#1).

Look at this pic and you'll find the hole that exposes the top clyinder guts (sorry, a bit out of focus).



The rust actually formed to block half that hole and I can see where it oozed onto parts #8 and #7 inside the top cylinder.

If this (top cylinder) can possibly cause my lift problem then I'm pretty confident it has.

Unfortunately, the rust is so bad that soaking alone isn't going to do the job. I'm going to have to take plate #10 off and clean the top clyinder parts.

The 2 #20 holes allow enough solvent (gas) to get inside so I'm not going to mess with taking those parts out.

Once I have the top clyinder parts cleaned and back in place I'm going to take your advice and spray WD in all the holes and shoot air inside as the final cleaning.

Thanks

 

[JC-jetro]

Yes, I'm now sure the rust is inside the top cylinder and parts.


Thanks

Yikes, the hole looks pretty bad. The casting of the valve assembly looks pretty thick. I hope it has not penetrated where #7 ( Hyd valve) is. Is your tractor parked outside all the time or was flooded at some time? Mine after 30 years does not have a slightest trace of rust inside. If the breather is plugged condensation during change of season can not go any where and trapped moisture can really damage. What surprises me is that the whole area of lift cylinder gets constantly sprayed with the lot of oil (I.e open center, live hydraulic)as long as the tractor is running. There should be ample oil film on everything protecting the metal from rusting. Well, I keep my fingers crossed, hopefully it won't be for naught and you won't have to get a brand new spool valve.


JC,

 

[sevans]

Yup... pretty bad!

I do believe it has gotten to #7 which I'll find out how bad as soon as I can get the 2 bolts and #10 plate off.

Yes, this tractor was (and really still is) a workhorse but my father died (original owner) in 1987 and this tractor sat out in the elements unused until last year (explaining why constant oil didn't protect the spool) when I needed it to build a Pavestone wall.

One of the country neighbors got it running last year because he wanted to borrow it to move some road base around. He put on (but Mom paid for the parts) a new battery, 3 FEL hyd hoses, fuel bowl and filter, hyd & oil filters, and new fluids. He had to drain off the fuel tank as well.

She fired right up! He used it for about a week then I went and picked it up and brought it to the city. The tractor has moved lots of dirt and Pavestones for me the past year but now I'm working on a picket fence for my home and needed the post hole digger.

In my use of it she blew another (old) hyd hose, leaked at the priority valve, and now this.

All in all... considering the abuse she got sitting in the elements for so long, I'm very pleased with her performance and I've found out there's nothing I can't repair on her (with your help).

Thanks

 

[JC-jetro]

Yup... pretty bad!

IYes, this tractor was (and really still is) a workhorse but my father died (original owner) in 1987

God bless, may your dad's soul RIP. I hope, I have not oversold myself, I'm pretty green (Kermit the frog comes to mind) when It comes to tractors. I had only one single tractor in my life in the last two years, but enjoy knowing the inner working of any piece of equipment including tractors. Keep us posted and we'll try to help or hinder. I myself specialize on the latter

JC,

 

[sevans]

Thanks,

I can tell by your photography (I used to be a pro photographer in the 70's) and your attention to detailing and documentation (I work with a lot of engineers) that if you've taken it apart then you have probably studied and understand it well.

Books are okay (just okay) for diagnosing a problem but they don't replace plain old been there, done that experience. For example, pg 95 says a faulty hyd pump could be the cause of my problem but we already determined that if it lifts the FEL then it's not the pump yet the book doesn't tell me that.

Lack of experience in any given industry means nothing to me; it's the people involved. I'm revolutionizing water analysis with a team of people who none of have experience in the water industry. We've been asked why smarter people (people from the industry and university) didn't think of our solution?! You just can't answer that without offending the folks from the industry and university.

The gas bath didn't do much to the rust. I did use WD40 and a wire brush and removed it but i'm pretty sure that once I have the top clyinder parts out that I'll need to get out the Dremmel and clean up the inside. Depending on the extent of the damage and cost of parts, I may just buy new parts rather than trying to clean rust off a tiny spring (which might be rusted in half anyway). First I'll try some spray on rust remover.

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks,


The gas bath didn't do much to the rust. I did use WD40 and a wire brush and removed it but i'm pretty sure that once I have the top clyinder parts out that I'll need to get out the Dremmel and clean up the inside. Depending on the extent of the damage and cost of parts, I may just buy new parts rather than trying to clean rust off a tiny spring (which might be rusted in half anyway). First I'll try some spray on rust remover.

Seavan,

Totally agree with your statement. I know many service people ,mechanic maintenance folks that are as sharp as it gets, they just did not get the opportunity for engineering school. They would have made fine engineers knowing the fundamentals a bit better coupled with great intuition and vision and specially hand eye coordination

I recommended to use dremmel tool and brush only on the outside. When you remove the spool and you see rust, I recommend to get some highest grit emery cloth and very lightly by hand/finger clean the inside. With dremmel set I have cotton disk that can also be used to buff things off, that may be choice for the inside. Tolerances are tight and parts are highly polished. You don't want to leave scratch mark after you're done cleaning.

Good luck
JC,

 

[sevans]

Well... I finally got the one bolt off from the rusted chamber. The nut, o-ring and spring all look good. Unfortunely, the "unloading valve" is rusted to the cylinder wall. I'm soaking it in WD-40 right now but fear it will take something stronger to eat away the rust.

Any ideas???

If I can't get it out today I'll probably put it all back together and hope that the problem isn't caused by this piece. It doesn't take much to dissassemble the control valve and take another stab at it if what I've done hasn't fixed the problem.

BTW... NH said they don't make that control valve and the "unloading valve" is special order and $72. I understand that NH came out with a new spool valve so maybe my part number for the whole unit has been changed to reflect the new spool valve.

 

[johnnylight]

check out :http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/88634-take-all-off.html

PineRidge way.

 

[JC-jetro]

check out :http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/88634-take-all-off.html

PineRidge way.

Cool post

What a coincidence, I have done the same thing (electrolysis) using a bucket of water, some table salt and sacrificial zinc anode to ionize water using DC current. Same principal, I did not try to remove rust though, it was part of mad scientist experiment to detoxify body thru one's feet.

JC,

 

[sevans]

That is REALLY cool!

Think it will work with an "assembly" with lots of tiny parts in it?

Sounds like an execellant alternative once I put it back together and what I'm doing doesn't work.

I have freed up the unloading valve to where it moves about an 1/8" inside the barrel but still working on getting it out.