3038E vs 3005 Which one?

[nunyabinis]

Test drove a 3038E today with FEL. First time I've ever driven a hydro. It felt weird. I have an old JD750 that I'm thinking about replacing. The dealer has a 3005 with FEL for about the same money. The 3005 is the exact same as a 790 and since it operates about the same as a 750, it "felt" right.


If it were YOUR money which would you buy?


Why?

 

[AKfish]

Isn't the 3038E around 38hp? And the 3005 around 27hp? The loader capacities should also greatly favor the 3038E... the 305 FEL should likely be 500lb more loader than the 300 FEL.

Seems like the 3038E would be a pretty big step up over the 3005.

Maybe a better comparison would be with the 3032E.

But... for the same money... there wouldn't be ANY further comparison needed - in my mind.

AKfish

 

[JiminGa]

you'll quickly learn to like the hydro doing loader work, I'm with AKfish, not even a second thought about it.

 

[diesel466]

Hi I just bought a new 3005 and for me I like it better than the hydros. I agree the hydros are faster but the 3005 looks so much better built. I liked the all cast iron construction , steel body work, and a design thats been proven for 20 years. The 3038e I looked at looked cheap to me, plastic hood was real flimsy and aluminum axle housings. I know these are common now but for me I think these old design tractors will last longer. Just my opinion.

 

[TomWhite]

Hi I just bought a new 3005 and for me I like it better than the hydros. I agree the hydros are faster but the 3005 looks so much better built. I liked the all cast iron construction , steel body work, and a design thats been proven for 20 years. The 3038e I looked at looked cheap to me, plastic hood was real flimsy and aluminum axle housings. I know these are common now but for me I think these old design tractors will last longer. Just my opinion.

I just went through a similar decision as the one the original poster is trying to make. I also went with the 3005. My reasons were multiple for chosing the 3005 over a 3032E.

First, I liked the idea of the loader being removable. The 3005 is a much easier machine to navigate through the woods. Also, with the permanent loader of the E series, simple things like oil changes, cleaning out the radiator, or if I ever need to remove the battery get to be a bit more of a pain.

I really like the solidness of the 3005. To me, it is more reminiscent of tractors of the past in its ruggedness. This is just one solid machine, yet a very simple machine. I have driven geared tractors all my life, so that did not bother me (even though I vastly prefer a hydro lawn mower to a gear one).

I really like this tractor so far. Can't wait to get it out in the fields with the brush cutter.

 

[nunyabinis]

Hi I just bought a new 3005 and for me I like it better than the hydros. I agree the hydros are faster but the 3005 looks so much better built. I liked the all cast iron construction , steel body work, and a design thats been proven for 20 years. The 3038e I looked at looked cheap to me, plastic hood was real flimsy and aluminum axle housings. I know these are common now but for me I think these old design tractors will last longer. Just my opinion.

********************************

You read my mind diesel446. I wanted other's opinions before divulging my concerns.

The 3038E looks flimsy compared to the 3005. While test driving the 3038, everytime I stopped and started to backup the hydro would make a loud screeching noise for a second or two just as it started backwards. That may be "normal" but it sounded pretty bad to an old country boy's ears. Also the turbocharger is TINY and looks like it might be problematic.

Another thing I don't like is there is no independant left and right brake. I plant a pretty big garden but it's tight around the edges and I'm used to spinning my JD750 around on a dime using the brakes. I'd have to decrease the size of my garden if I got a 3038.


I agree that the 3005 is a PROVEN design and looks rugged compared to the 3038. I don't want to be a guinea pig on a new design. I got enough of that when Windows Vista first came out!!!


If the 3005 had more horsepower it would be a no-brainer but I REALLY wanted a tractor with at least 35hp since I'm a member of a big hunt club and I can use all the HP I can get while still fitting a tractor and implement on a standard 7000lb bumper-pull trailer.


Decisions, decisions!!!


I appreciate everyone's input and look forward to any more any of you fine folks have.


Thanks.

 

[AKfish]

I rented a number of tractors before I finally bought one. And I grew up on/around Ag machines. My first CUT was a JD970. Gear tractor and all-metal body with "old-school" looks-design. Great machine...

I've got a "hybrid" now -- a machine with plastic fenders, hood, etc. etc. coupled with big hunks of cast iron!

It whines when I go back and forth and it whines whenever I lift the FEL up --- but it can nearly pick my 'ol 970 up off the ground, too!

I have great faith that these new generation of John Deere CUT's will also be workin' and doin' the jobs they were designed for in 20-30 years alongside their "no-frills" brethren. If you look past the "no rust, hard to crack or split, and flexible body parts" the core machine is JD stout!

But... every decision has a gut feel to it and it's not always what's on paper.

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[JasonMac]

I sometimes wish my loader on my 3720 Cab was permanent... Or if it had to come off, it could come off with a few extra steps towards taking it off would be fine by me. I like the permanent "No Slop" feel in a loader. Not that mine has a lot of play.... but I'd rather it had none at all...

 

[dirt ditch]

According to the specifications it looks like JD has made the 3038E for customers wanting a inexpensive tractor but don't want the gears of the 3005. It does have 6 more PTO horses but it weighs less and has a 1" shorter wheel base. There can't be that much difference between the 300 and 305 loaders either.

JD is not going to let this new cheaper hydro compete with it's 3x20 line of tractors and 300x/cx loaders. If a person want that kind of performance they will have to pay for it.

Like you said the 3005 is a proven tractor design with thousands of dependable hours on it.

Other 790/3005 owners have said it about their tractors and I'll repeat it, bulletproof. My $.02

 

[WH401]

When I was looking at tractors back in September, I had to choose between a new 3005 and a used 3320 (10 hrs). Both tractors were gear drive, had about the same horsepower, and were about the same price. Ultimately I ended up going with the 3320 because I wanted a higher loader capacity than what the 3005 offered.

So far I have been very happy with the 3320, but I have to say I actually miss the regular gear mesh transmission of the 3005 and the "classic tractor" look it has. Also I have found out, the 300 loader would have been fine for the work I need it for and that said if I did it over again, I would go with the 3005.

If I had to choose between the tractors you mention, I would go with the 3005 as well. It's a proven design, has a removable loader, and as far as my preference, I don't like how you have to run a hydro at high rpm to get adequate performance from the transmission.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Also the turbocharger is TINY and looks like it might be problematic.

Dont let the size of the Turbo have ANY factor...Turbo Diesels have been around a LONG time and I wouldnt personally buy a diesel anything without one.
On PTO Work, it makes a WORLD of difference...

 

[nunyabinis]

Another question for you folks that just hit me:


With a hydro tranny, how do you gauge what is the "right" speed for a particular implement?


For instance, I know that while pulling my KK Tiller with my JD 750 at the correct PTO speed, the tiller works best when the tractor is in fourth gear.


How the heck does that work with a hydro??? You have a Low and High range and a throttle but the actual forward speed is controlled by how far you depress the "forward" pedal. How do you "gauge" that and keep one constant "correct" speed?



Sorry for the stupidity but as I wrote before, I don't know doodley about a hydro.

 

[JiminGa]

Another question for you folks that just hit me:


With a hydro tranny, how do you gauge what is the "right" speed for a particular implement?


For instance, I know that while pulling my KK Tiller with my JD 750 at the correct PTO speed, the tiller works best when the tractor is in fourth gear.


How the heck does that work with a hydro??? You have a Low and High range and a throttle but the actual forward speed is controlled by how far you depress the "forward" pedal. How do you "gauge" that and keep one constant "correct" speed?



Sorry for the stupidity but as I wrote before, I don't know doodley about a hydro.

that's a very good question actually. As for my 2305, the tiller will pretty much push it along at about the right speed, you just kind of get a feel for it and keep her going at what's working good. Kind of kentucky Windage it!

 

[Spudland_Dave]

You get a good feel for it in a matter of seconds. Normally I've been able to snowblow & plow my drive in 2nd range...Monday's 22" of wet heavy stuff put me into 1st range...I knew in about 15 seconds of blowing I needed to be in Range #1.

I dont think the option for this feature is on the machines you listed, but you can get the "Automotive Cruise" kit for the eHydro machines and that allows you to actually set a speed in MPH as a top speed...slam the pedal to the ground and she'll only go XX mph...which I've heard is good for things like Snowblowing and Tilling. I dont have it, but eventually I'll get it as a gift to myself to have a few more buttons & doo dads in the cab...

 

[AKfish]

With a hydro tranny, how do you gauge what is the "right" speed for a particular implement?

For instance, I know that while pulling my KK Tiller with my JD 750 at the correct PTO speed, the tiller works best when the tractor is in fourth gear.

How the heck does that work with a hydro??? You have a Low and High range and a throttle but the actual forward speed is controlled by how far you depress the "forward" pedal. How do you "gauge" that and keep one constant "correct" speed?

I think that using PTO implements with a Hydro tranny is alot easier than with a gear machine. Especially the new, electric PTO models.

Run the throttle up to say, 1,500rpm; hit the PTO button and begin to slowly depress the forward pedal ( so the tiller, etc. isn't sitting in one spot churning away) and throttle up to 540 PTO rpm's. From that point, you can vary your speed (without affecting the PTO) for field conditions by letting up or pushing down on the forward pedal.

And if you run into something that is a problem - rock pile, big tree roots, etc. - hit that PTO button and everything STOPS! Then you can worry about the forward motion of the tractor; pull on thru or stop, etc.

With a gear tractor; varying speeds for field conditions meant either stopping to shift to another gear or trying to work the throttle without bogging the tiller, etc. With the Hydro - you don't have to mess with the throttle or the gears - just vary the pressure on the pedal.

AKfish

 

[msengstock]

My biggest problem, unless I'm mistaken - please correct me, the 3038E is replacing a machine you used to be able to get a backhoe for .... as we say in the 'hood: no hoe no mo' - in that machine 'class' I guess

 

[nunyabinis]

My biggest problem, unless I'm mistaken - please correct me, the 3038E is replacing a machine you used to be able to get a backhoe for .... as we say in the 'hood: no hoe no mo' - in that machine 'class' I guess

*****************************


Correct, but not really a deciding factor for me. I ain't payin' almost 8 grand for no hoe no way.


On the rare occasion that I need a hoe, I'll rent one for $200.

 

[GreenWannabe]

As I understand it, these models are only replacing a single model, the 3203, which did not take a backhoe either. The 3120 was dropped to lack of interest (sales), as I understand it. The 3005, 3320, 3520, and 3720 are the remaining models in the 3000 series which can have a backhoe. Current backhoe models for the 3x20 series are the 7'8" capacity model 385, which can be used with both open station and cabbed tractors; and the 8'9" model 475, which can be used only on open station tractors. The 7'6" model 7 is for the 3005 tractor. HTH.

 

[JGY]

The 3005 is no frills, solid tractor with the biggest benefit in my mind -- no electronics to foul up. It will last for years of good service. Otherwise if you want a comfortable seat, hydro, etc., etc., go with the 3038E.

FWIW try the four cylinder 4005 if you can find it!

J

 

[jcmseven]

I recently bought a 2320, but in my looking I went over several options with my dealer who stocks a bunch of tractors and has a great deal of knowledge on them. In short, the 3032 and 3038 machines are true price point tractors (read cheap) and do NOT offer some of the same features of the other JD machines. They are not bad machines, but one has to be careful with the HP readings. The 3005 is rated for almost as much torque at rated speed and has a super-efficient gear drive transmission. If one does not mind shifting and does not do a ton on loader work, it is an excellent machine. There is NO question in my mind the 3005 is the way to go in this price range of machine, unless one has a strong desire for the hydro tranny. Also bear in mind going hydro might sap some of that minor power difference making the increased HP a wash. I have seen many 790's and 990's abused beyond belief and still are running fine. I have not, of course, seen any of the 3032/38 machines in similar state

John M