3320 - Day One

[JasonMac]

The only thing else I would recommend is to get the "Bolt On Reversable Cutting Edge" for your bucket. Since you are in Michigan I'm sure you'll be using it for the snow more than you think. I would rather wear down a designated blade than wear down the lip of the bucket. Worth every penny, espcially on concrete.

 

[Killer_B]

That's a nice tractor.

I am going to paint a sign for my garage too. I haven't forgotten to put the ROPS down yet, but it's just a matter of time.

Did you find that your ROPS pins were hard to get in and out at first? I needed a hammer to get then in, then a hammer and a punch to get them out. What I did to remedy the problem is to use a drill bit that was much smaller than the holes. I extend the ROPS and lined everything up so the pins were ready to go in. Then I "reamed" the holes by running the bit back and forth and round and round. I then did the same thing in the lowered position. It took only the paint off the inside of the holes, but that was enough. Now the pins slide in and out without the need for a hammer.

As much as I will be putting this thing up and down, I need it to work smoothly.

 

[orlo]

Killer_B:

Congratulations. Your going to love it. I loved my 3320 that I just traded for a 3720 cab.

Couple of things.

The 72" MMM is beefy but you CAN bang it up and it hangs low. It's easy to bottom it on stuff if you are doing loader work and tractor stuff. I'm in the process of getting an 84" RFM since I'm tired of mounting/dismounting the deck to do 'tractor stuff' (or living with beating very expensive deck up). Putting it on and off once a season or infrequently isn't bad, but doing it every week or so can be a pain. Also if you take it off you need to check the level when you put it back on.

It'll give you an absolutely beautiful cut with blade speeds over 18,000fpm but it's very, very sensitive to being level (side to side). If you hit anything with it check the level to make sure it didn't go out.

Look out for dropping pins on the gauge wheels. I just lost one of mine and didn't notice until I did a complete lap and noticed the 'gouge' the fallen wheel (Now turned sideways) had left in the lawn. :O).

Also, you can lift and curl at once, no problem. The 3000 series has plenty of flow to do that. It just takes a little finesse with the Dual SCV valve (Which I don't have very well btw) but it can be done. I'm at the point where I can Curl up and lower the loader at the same time but I'm too 'choppy' trying to level the bucket while lifting.

If you have the automotive cruise control (an upgrade over the standard one) I'd recommend one of the first things you do is set the 'slow' and 'fast' motion match settings. Use the slowest one while mowing. If you let completely off the hydro in the fast setting while mowing fast you can and will skid.

Lastly, your going to LOVE it.

 

[RollTideRam]

I got my 3320 on Saturday also. My rops pins are just like yours. I'll try to free them up today. I did not play very long Saturday, is was still over 100. I did find I could lift a rear tire with the loader just like on the smaller 2520. I even have these tires filled. JC

 

[VABlue]

Nice purchase and pics! I wish I had room for a larger tractor, but I'll have to deal with the little 2305 for now... Have fun with it!

 

[Killer_B]

Killer_B:

Also if you take it off you need to check the level when you put it back on.

It'll give you an absolutely beautiful cut with blade speeds over 18,000fpm but it's very, very sensitive to being level (side to side). If you hit anything with it check the level to make sure it didn't go out.

If you have the automotive cruise control (an upgrade over the standard one) I'd recommend one of the first things you do is set the 'slow' and 'fast' motion match settings. Use the slowest one while mowing. If you let completely off the hydro in the fast setting while mowing fast you can and will skid.

Lastly, your going to LOVE it.

Orlo,

Thanks for the info. Can you give me a quick lesson on how to level the deck side to side? I did read the manual, but it was hard to follow. It will probably make more sense when I actually do it.

I do have the auto cruise and did set the motion match to 4 on the low and 6 on the high. The difference is definitely noticeable. BTW: Although the dealer installed the switches and wires, he did not do the "reprogramming." I just followed the manual and did it no problem.

 

[Killer_B]

I got my 3320 on Saturday also. JC

Pics?

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

Nice tractor! Congratulations! I am pretty sure that model will be my next tractor also...

 

[orlo]

Killer_B:

The manual covers side to side and front/rear leveling but here is a quick list of what you do for side to side.

The biggest pain is you need to measure the 'blades' when they are sticking straight out to the sides. The deck has no alignment guides (Would make it too easy to level - I may weld some on sometime).

First, turn off the tractor, disengage the front PTO - you'll be turning the blades.

Drop the deck to your cutting height onto the stops - Make sure the wheels aren't touching.

Measure the blades from the floor (A level floor of course) when they are straight out - you'll probably need to turn the blades between measuring sides. If they are more than 1/8" off (or even less) you should adjust them. To adjust them
look at the back of the deck, you'll see two (one on each side) yokes with rings in them. You can either lower the high side or raise the low side but if you raise the low side make sure that when it's at full raise it doesn't hit the stops or anything else. To lower a side pull out the ring and clevis pin, and loosen the turnbuckle. Unless it's way off I always go just 1/2 a turn then put it back and check the blades again.

That's it in a nutshell. I hardly ever have to adjust the front to rear level but if that's more than a small amount off (The front should be level to a tad lower, never higher than the rear) you should adjust it. Take off the front mount and do the same with the turnbuckles on front. Tightening them will raise the front of the deck, loosening them will lower it.

Note, you'll be on your back and reaching doing this. Probably cursing a few times also...

To measure the blades on the non-discharge side is a pain unless you get a little gage that JD sells for less than $10. It's still a pain but a little easier after you do that.

You could probably get close to level by measuring the distance of like adjusted anti-scalp wheels in the rear and front but I've never tried this and it would be as accurate as measuring the blades.

Also, on the Height adjustment knob I think 1 rotation (6 clicks) is 1/2 and inch in height) having no marks here is a little bit of a pain.

 

[Killer_B]

Thanks a ton Orlo! I get it now.