3320 - Day One

[hoddykubody]

Welcome to the club Killer B . What I did on my 3520 when I got it off the float was to take a reamer to those holes on the rops to take the paint off now its no problem no hammer req'd. When mowing you might want to experiment with tire inflation because I believe it will ride smoother with less air, check the book and do a search on here. Something else you might want to consider is to put jam nuts on the mower deck adjustment yokes. When I had my deck off its easy for the yokes to turn on there own on removal . Best of luck on your new purchase . Hoddykubody

 

[Killer_B]

you might want to consider is to put jam nuts on the mower deck adjustment yokes. When I had my deck off its easy for the yokes to turn on there own on removal . Best of luck on your new purchase . Hoddykubody

Man, you must have been reading my mind! I just took my deck of and put her back on for the fun of it. As I was fiddling with the back yokes I thought to myself, "I wonder why there are no jamb nuts on here."

The hole reaming on the ROPS did the trick.

The ride quality of this machine is sooo much better than I am used to that I have no desire to fiddle with it. If my butt gets spoiled and starts to complain, I will look into backing down the tire pressure.

Best regards.

 

[NoMo]

Congrats on the new tractor!

I'm still hammering the pins in & out of the ROPS. Might get around to reaming out the holes one of these days.

Do check your tire pressures. Sometimes the dealer forgets to do those little things.

 

[McRancher]

I'm still hammering the pins in and out too. I figured they would loosen up after a while, but they really haven't. I think one of them is getting tighter. I will get the drill out this evening and ream the holes out. I like the idea of not having to look for a hammer and punch every time I take the tractor out.

 

[RoyJackson]

I'm still hammering the pins in and out too. I figured they would loosen up after a while, but they really haven't. I think one of them is getting tighter. I will get the drill out this evening and ream the holes out. I like the idea of not having to look for a hammer and punch every time I take the tractor out.

Just don't complain about the rattling if you ream those holes!

 

[Houndsman]

Killer B,
congrats on the tractor. You're probably more experienced at "tractoring" than I am, but I'm going to give you the 3 successes to my JD experience:
* TBN and all the sage experience that covers what is not in the manual.
* The JD TM's and Parts Manuals I ordered from JD, that are on a CD. They've filled in missing info that an owner's manual does not address.
* Dollies for implements---if and when you expand beyond the front blade, you'll want to have dollies under your implements in order to "rubic's cube" items in a tightly constrained garage. Custom build them or use move'rs dollies.

Again, congrats! v/r mark

 

[flyngti]

I'm still hammering the pins in and out too. I figured they would loosen up after a while, but they really haven't. I think one of them is getting tighter. I will get the drill out this evening and ream the holes out. I like the idea of not having to look for a hammer and punch every time I take the tractor out.

When my 2320 was brand new, one of the pins was perfectly aligned and slid out without too much effort. However the other one was sticky and needed some help with a hammer. I was parking in the garage at the time and had to fold the ROPS and that sticky pin was a PITA. When the dealer delivered the tractor, he mentioned that the pins would eventually get looser over time and in my case he was right. In the first 20 or so hours of use, it seems like the motion of the tractor bouncing around on rough ground was enough to unstick the pin. I did not have to go to the extreme measure of reaming out the hole.

 

[RollTideRam]

I got mine saturday, but just signed the papers today. For referance, here was my price
3320 E-hydro, big R4's
300cx 61" hd bucket with t/bar
deluxe hood guard
3rd scv with extra loader lines for my grapple
diverter valve with 2 rear outlets
air seat
rear work light. $20620 including tax
I did pretty good on price, but as usual lost on my trade-in. JC

 

[Killer_B]

I got mine saturday, but just signed the papers today. For referance, here was my price
3320 E-hydro, big R4's
300cx 61" hd bucket with t/bar
deluxe hood guard
3rd scv with extra loader lines for my grapple
diverter valve with 2 rear outlets
air seat
rear work light. $20620 including tax
I did pretty good on price, but as usual lost on my trade-in. JC

What is a "diverter valve with 2 rear outlets?" I that a Fasse? If I go to a rear mount snow blower, I could probably use at least one more valve for the chute rotator. I would love to know how you did it. Pics would be extra dandy.

Thanks, and congrats on the new tractor. The big R4's look TOUGH.

 

[RollTideRam]

I had a Fasse diverter on my 2520. This setup is all Deere. I found it when looking through the options. Two sets of outlets on the rear, flip a switch and the joystick operates them. If my wife will let me borrow her camera, I'll get a pic.
I wanted top and tilt, and this was required. It cost too much for me to get the top and tilt at this time, but I'm setup for it. JC