3PH / Backhoe hose loop bothers me.

[Aquamoose]

I have a Branson 3520H with a BH76 backhoe that feeds off the tractor hydraulics.

Problem is when I remove the BH for storage, the hoses on the tractor has to be hooked up to maintain the loop BUT it is quite long and gets in the way when I use other implements and it steals the top link holder to hold the hose up out of the way. I would LOVE to rework the hoses into a stationary two outlet coupler with a bypass valve that loops the flow back into the tractor and when using the BH, the valve gets turned to allow flow to the BH. Is there any valve setup that does this?

 

[countrybumpkin]

You could Tee a quarter turn ball valve in between the two lines right at the quick connects for the loop hose, when the back hoe is plugged in, have the valve closed so it makes the oil go through the back hoe, when you want the back hoe off just open the valve and oil will flow to the rest of the system just as if you had the bypass loop plugged in. Some place like surplus center or other hydraulic supply houses should have the fittings and valve you need.

Surplus Center

 

[Aquamoose]

That's a good idea, I'm afraid that it might be too wide when all the pieces are assembled.

 

[Coyote machine]

You could rearrange the way the hoses connect. Pics from your current setup would help us understand how it is now.
One possible way is to leave the long section of hose on the hoe, by cutting and refitting the section that is currently coming from the tractor to supply the hoe, then installing a new fitting where you make the cut, to allow for the 'return line' of fluid to the hydraulics of the tractor to be shorter. Then the cut section gets attached to the hoe so when using it, you plug it into whatever fitting you have attached at the supply from the tractor. I did this with my FEL hoses that supply my plow and grapple, tree shear, etc.
The new fittings are a compression type that screw into the inner hose liner, (reverse thread) and the 'nut' tightens over the outside of the hyd hose. I have no leaks from this shortening of the hoses. You must keep the fittings and hoses, inside and out free of dirt/debris, and when done right they are not noticeable as different from the crimped on ones from the factory. Readily available, and you could probably buy a bracket so you'd have the hoses mounted neatly in the rear of the tractor, and then just plug and go as needed- depending on your current config, and what needs changing.

 

[Aquamoose]

Here are the images. In the second image, you can see the two hoses wire tied together which I'm referring to. I'd like to avoid looping the hose and your suggestion still does this. If there isn't any type of bypass, I may cobble some fittings with a ball valve to tidy up the rear and gives me two fixed coupler points.

 

[TMGT]

Seems a lot of manufacturers make the tractor siDe hoses kinda long. Could you just put shorter hoses on the tractor side and longer hoses on the hoe side?

That's how I did my hoses when I made my bh.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Ok the pics helped a lot, I was thinking that you had two quick connects mounted on the tractor and the hoses were left with the back hoe. I would probably look at doing some thing along the lines of what coyote machine is saying, shorten the two hoses by instilling new ends with quick connects on the rear of the tractor and then a short jumper hose or a u shape fitting with quick connects to jumper the circuit on the tractor with the long hoses attached to the hoe. I'll see if I can dig up some pics someplace.

 

[Soundguy]

You could Tee a quarter turn ball valve in between the two lines right at the quick connects for the loop hose, when the back hoe is plugged in, have the valve closed so it makes the oil go through the back hoe, when you want the back hoe off just open the valve and oil will flow to the rest of the system just as if you had the bypass loop plugged in. Some place like surplus center or other hydraulic supply houses should have the fittings and valve you need.

Surplus Center

exactly what i was thinking. bypass across right behind the couplers with a valve..

 

[countrybumpkin]

Something like this could be done on the tractor side, then a short jumper, a valve teed in between the to lines right behind the quick connects , that way you have nothing to keep up with to jumper it that way. Bunch of ways to do it , just have to decide which way you like and can do.

 

[Ron50]

Aquamoose
I just run my backhoe off the quick disconncts. I changed the backhoe to have two mle ends. The two female ends that were left I connected together to plug the hose ends into for storage on the hoe. You just keep that pair of connects open to power the hoe. My tractor is a 20 series but I would think that it would work the same.

 

[Coyote machine]

Here are the images. In the second image, you can see the two hoses wire tied together which I'm referring to. I'd like to avoid looping the hose and your suggestion still does this. If there isn't any type of bypass, I may cobble some fittings with a ball valve to tidy up the rear and gives me two fixed coupler points.

Remember I was shooting blind before the pics. I still think you could avoid valves/shutoffs by just cutting/rearranging the hoses and a couple of new QDs and possibly bracket to hold them, similar to how your factory valve is now.


View attachment 457316 View attachment 457317

Seems a lot of manufacturers make the tractor siDe hoses kinda long. Could you just put shorter hoses on the tractor side and longer hoses on the hoe side?

That's how I did my hoses when I made my bh.

That's what I was trying to say - you stated it better...:thumbsup:

Something like this could be done on the tractor side, then a short jumper, a valve teed in between the to lines right behind the quick connects , that way you have nothing to keep up with to jumper it that way. Bunch of ways to do it , just have to decide which way you like and can do.

What CB says above - (more so in his pic), is what I am trying to suggest/convey. Make it easy to connect: on the hoe one male end, one female end, then match those up on the tractor rear end. The excess hose stays on the hoe, and the male/female ends connect, when not in use, to keep it clean. If the tractor hoses need to always allow flow when the hoe is off cut a short jumper to connect when the hoe is off. I take it the existing hoses are running off the FEL valve?

FWIW, my Kioti came with one factory remote set with QDs, and I installed a second, which gives me two levers at the open station, one detented, the other not. Then I added a diverter valve, which ties into the curl circuit of my FEL joystick, and it allows me to run a Fit Rite T-N-T via a joystick trigger on my loader stick/handle.
So two remotes, one diverter, and a joystick handle allow me to run a snowplow, a grapple on front, a T-N-T on rear BB, etc., and the hoe as needed. Kioti sells a 'kit' to allow the return to tank hoe hose to connect to the fill port of the tractor hydraulics- which increases flow of fluid, keeps things cool and increases overall speed of the hoe hydraulics.:thumbsup:

Like your nice clean tractor! Hope you'll post your eventual solution with pics...

 

[Aquamoose]

I went to a "hose" store where they also have fittings, etc. got a few items and after looking over the tractor, I believe I have an excellent plan which would make the install look factory sharp. So good that I just might offer it as a bolt-in retrofit kit for 3520 owners w/ backhoes.





The ball valve fitting has no attachment points but I plan to weld mounting nuts on the bottom side and secure it on a fabricated bracket using the existing hardware from the top of the remote stack as seen in this top picture.



I'll get started on this in a week & post updates.

 

[BukitCase]

That will sure beat what you have now - one more suggestion you may already plan on - if your fittings to the hoe are one male, one female (opposite on the hoses of course) then when the hoe is off you can couple its hoses together to keep all the dirt/bugs out.

Then just a matched pair of QD caps on the tractor side, ball valve open and you're good to go... Steve

 

[coralhead]

When I bought my Branson backhoe for my 4520R I just made the hoe connections both male and use one of the two hydraulic remotes on the back of the tractor. Is there a way to just remove the backhoe loop altogether from the loader valves and just use one of the remotes? Sounds a lot simpler and less expensive than all the additional plumbing you are looking at adding.

 

[Aquamoose]

BukitCase - When the BH is off, the hoses are coupled together to keep the ends clean. It's a practice that I've done in my FF days with the hydraulic tools we used (jaws of life, spreaders, lifters, etc). Got rid of the caps it came with. Of course, on the tractor side, the plug/cap will be used.

coralhead - The backhoe loop supplies a hefty amount of fluids and it's an open loop setup, rather than having to try to hold the levers in one position to supply the BH. The tractor originally was equipped with the BH connections so I figured that this was the default way to provide BH hydraulics. I wanted two remote capabilities to the rear and a 3rd function on the front loader and they stacked the two remote valves on the back. Curious, what is your setup like originally & after modification and who did the mod/add-on?

 

[coralhead]

[/QUOTE]coralhead - The backhoe loop supplies a hefty amount of fluids and it's an open loop setup, rather than having to try to hold the levers in one position to supply the BH. The tractor originally was equipped with the BH connections so I figured that this was the default way to provide BH hydraulics. I wanted two remote capabilities to the rear and a 3rd function on the front loader and they stacked the two remote valves on the back. Curious, what is your setup like originally & after modification and who did the mod/add-on?[/QUOTE]

I just removed the female quick connect from the backhoe and replaced it with another male quick connect. I then connect to the lower hydraulic remote like you have on your tractor and use a short cord to hold the lever next to the seat in the forward position. The cab tractor remotes have one with a detent to hold it in the flow position but the ROPs does not. The use of a cord to hold the valve open is crude but a lot simpler than having another valve setup on the back. Note that you have to make sure the correct fitting is in the correct coupler but having them color coded makes this simple. My tractor did not come with a backhoe when I purchased it but was bought later. Total cost was a male quick fitting and a piece of cord from the shop.

With your proposed setup what happens if you forget to manually move the ball valve to the open position when the hoe is off the tractor?

 

[Xfaxman]

I went to a "hose" store where they also have fittings, etc. got a few items and after looking over the tractor, I believe I have an excellent plan which would make the install look factory sharp. So good that I just might offer it as a bolt-in retrofit kit for 3520 owners w/ backhoes.

View attachment 457752

View attachment 457753

The ball valve fitting has no attachment points but I plan to weld mounting nuts on the bottom side and secure it on a fabricated bracket using the existing hardware from the top of the remote stack as seen in this top picture.

View attachment 457751

I'll get started on this in a week & post updates.

Looks like a good plan, but I am concerned about the NPT fittings. They are hard to get tight and pointed the way they need to be.

The "hose" store should have sold you O-Ring Boss (ORB) fittings that you put in position and snug the nut down on the o ring till it doesn't leak. SAE Straight Thread O-Ring (ORB) Hydraulic Fittings

 

[Aquamoose]

Xfaxman,

You know what, you're absolutely correct. I'm going to take a few steps back and try to locate an ORB ball valve. I think I found one from Ball Valve, 3/4" ORB and I'm waiting for them to supply more info & pricing. I'm hoping this one has the means to mount it too!

I know I could have gotten adapters but that would just clutter up the rear so I'd thought I'd try to do it right as if I'm engineering the setup at the Branson factory.

Thank you!!!

 

[Xfaxman]

You're welcome, looking forward to pictures of the finished project. :thumbsup:

 

[Aquamoose]

Got the info and it looks that this ORB ball valve I mentioned will work well. It has means to bolt it to a mounting plate and thanks to Xfaxman, the correct valve is on the way to me! The minor downside is the company is from Canada and shipping & tariff amounts to about $30 for a $48 dollar part. Not too bad since the original valve is about $58 bucks. Had I stuck with the original valve, I'd have to buy adapters and it would make the assembly wider, cluttered, and I'd still have to fabricate a unique way to mount it. In all, I came out ahead!

It's a nice feeling to share an issue I'm having and you guys just gather 'round to offer suggestions as if you all were next door neighbors. Now the waiting begins and I look forward to completing this project and sharing it with you all.

Again, many thanks!