3PH Pins

[bindian]

Does anyone know if Mahindra makes a Cat 1 sliding end............just the sliding part...........of the left lift arm to fit my 2007 Mahindra 6520? As you can see in the photo, my new (to me) Ford Model 101 3 bottom plow's left hitch pin is too short for my Cat 2 swivel ball. I cut 1/4 inch off of an adapter bushing to fit on the pin. The plow came with the attached quick lock pin. It has been ground to half of it's original diameter and is bent. It will not go all the way through the hole.
hugs, Brandi

 

[RaymondEdward]

Wouldn't be easier to grind the hitch link back so more of the shaft hole is exposed?

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Wouldn't be easier to grind the hitch link back so more of the shaft hole is exposed?

This probably would make the plow pull to one side...the crossbar is adjustable to make the plow pull straight, but only a certain amound...I've heard of folks welding on more steel to the end of the hitch point to get the same effect.

 

[wolftree]

A suggestion, remove the drawbar from the tractor whenever attaching a moldboard plow.

 

[SPYDERLK]

This probably would make the plow pull to one side...the crossbar is adjustable to make the plow pull straight, but only a certain amound...I've heard of folks welding on more steel to the end of the hitch point to get the same effect.

1/4" ... Telescopic stabilizers and plow adjustments remain.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

1/4" ... Telescopic stabilizers and plow adjustments remain.

Sorry, Never mind...I just grew up on Ford tractors and plowed with Dearborn and Ford plows...the 101 was designed for tractors with 12.4 to 13.6 inch rear tires and the width from the center line of the tractor to the inside of the right rear tire is specific (such as a Ford 3000). Don't know how a 16.9" rear and the width of the centerline to the right rear of the the 6500 series might work or if significant adjustments would have to be made. Just saying.....BobG in VA

 

[bindian]

Wouldn't be easier to grind the hitch link back so more of the shaft hole is exposed?

That would be easiest. I don't want to do that at this time.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

This probably would make the plow pull to one side...the crossbar is adjustable to make the plow pull straight, but only a certain amound...I've heard of folks welding on more steel to the end of the hitch point to get the same effect.

Bob,
If I ground anything, it would be the lift arm swivel ball. It's only 1/8th inch. If I ground the plow's left mount pin's shoulder..........it would only be 1/8 inch and maybe I could even camfer the swivel ball's hole to fit over a more rounded shoulder. I don't need to grind all the way down to the mount's diameter, just enough for the ball to slide over. The bushing is up under there and will not grind for it, as I have cut 1/4 inch off of the bushing.
I might sale the plow..............so I don't wanna modifly it in any way, if, possible.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

A suggestion, remove the drawbar from the tractor whenever attaching a moldboard plow.

The Ford Model 101 stated to just move winging drawbar to far left. I did and it clears.
Thanks anyway.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

1/4" ... Telescopic stabilizers and plow adjustments remain.

Basically....yes.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Sorry, Never mind...I just grew up on Ford tractors and plowed with Dearborn and Ford plows...the 101 was designed for tractors with 12.4 to 13.6 inch rear tires and the width from the center line of the tractor to the inside of the right rear tire is specific (such as a Ford 3000). Don't know how a 16.9" rear and the width of the centerline to the right rear of the the 6500 series might work or if significant adjustments would have to be made. Just saying.....BobG in VA

Bob,
I discussed this in the thread I started when I bought it.........here......... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/331834-ford-model-101-3-bottom.html
The measurements called for in the manual are just a couple of inches from the measurements I took off of the tractor. True.........that wide rear tire will not completely ride in the furrow. But I am having fun so far.
Guess I need a bigger plow for my fat rear tires!
Oh yeah...........I have a 20 series.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Depmandog]

Well I normally would never ever suggest any backwoods or hillbillish fix, but in this case I see no reason not to....

Use a ratchet strap from lift arm to lift arm, synch it up tight. Might add a strip of duct tape somewhere to complete the effect. This should work until a more "proper" fix could me made

 

[bindian]

Well I normally would never ever suggest any backwoods or hillbillish fix, but in this case I see no reason not to....

Use a ratchet strap from lift arm to lift arm, synch it up tight. Might add a strip of duct tape somewhere to complete the effect. This should work until a more "proper" fix could me made

Naw...........baling wire.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Navasot]

#13?
Error

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well I normally would never ever suggest any backwoods or hillbillish fix, but in this case I see no reason not to....

Use a ratchet strap from lift arm to lift arm, synch it up tight. Might add a strip of duct tape somewhere to complete the effect. This should work until a more "proper" fix could me made

Naw...........baling wire.
hugs, Brandi

You dont need either one ... nor lynch pins. The telescopic stabilizers on the 20 series securely set the distance between balls. Just choose the appropriate holes on the vernier such that the balls are held firmly inward to the proper separation for the pins on the plow.

 

[bindian]

You dont need either one ... nor lynch pins. The telescopic stabilizers on the 20 series securely set the distance between balls. Just choose the appropriate holes on the vernier such that the balls are held firmly inward to the proper separation for the pins on the plow.

Technically, according to Farmwithjunk.............you don't need stabilizers if you have set up the plow correctly. According to you, I could just leave the lock pin out. But just think...................with enough slop...........and enough plow pressure just right........like hitting a root............your left lift arm comes detached from the plow..............your plowing and (at the time) looking forward.........then the tractor stalls.................you look back to see the rightplow pin is bent 90s in the lift arm's swivel.............now you have two messed up plow pins and you gotta do the walk of shame back to get chains to carry your broken plow home............................No Thankyou.
I'm a mechanic......I see operator error all the time.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I picked up a longer Cat 1 hitch pin at TSC. It is the bolt on kind. I just might cut the threads off and the plow's pin off and have it welded on the plow. But first I am gonna skillfully radius the shoulder of the plow's pin and also put a concave radius on my Cat 2 swivel ball. It will be raining this weekend and this will be a fine out-of-the-weather job. Photos coming.
hugs, Brandi

 

[SPYDERLK]

Technically, according to Farmwithjunk.............you don't need stabilizers if you have set up the plow correctly. According to you, I could just leave the lock pin out. But just think...................with enough slop...........and enough plow pressure just right........like hitting a root............your left lift arm comes detached from the plow..............your plowing and (at the time) looking forward.........then the tractor stalls.................you look back to see the rightplow pin is bent 90s in the lift arm's swivel.............now you have two messed up plow pins and you gotta do the walk of shame back to get chains to carry your broken plow home............................No Thankyou.
I'm a mechanic......I see operator error all the time.
hugs, Brandi

You dont leave any slop or you have to have the lynch pins. So dont leave slop unless tight together is a problem for plow operation.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I picked up a longer Cat 1 hitch pin at TSC. It is the bolt on kind. I just might cut the threads off and the plow's pin off and have it welded on the plow. But first I am gonna skillfully radius the shoulder of the plow's pin and also put a concave radius on my Cat 2 swivel ball. It will be raining this weekend and this will be a fine out-of-the-weather job. Photos coming.
hugs, Brandi

That should get you enuf room to use the lynch pin. From pic it doesnt lack much.

 

[bindian]

I took the end of the left lift arm off today and ground down the ball. I didn't grind off much material. I now have enough room for a 3/16th inch quick lock pin. I would prefer a 3/8th inch quick lock pin, but I can live with this.
hugs, Brandi