40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice

   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice
  • Thread Starter
#41  
As oosik can attest, our Winters are variable, at least for the last six years or so that I've lived in the area. We can get multiple feet in a week over multiple storms, or next to nothing like it was a few Winters ago. Would like to be prepared for the heavy years though. After doing some more research, I think a mid PTO tractor with a front snowblower is in my cards, but still open to other options. Back blade? Anyone here use rear pull snowblowers?

Rolling the snowblower into finance would be best, but afterwards is fine. Starting to think I will try and avoid hydraulic.

rscotty: Road is already in and looks pretty good. Needs some TLC and ongoing maintenance. See original post. Planning on building trails/paths elsewhere on the property though. I'm a geologist and work in mining, mind sharing what type of claims you have? Are you actively mining?

For some additional background: I'm about 30 yrs old and plan on making this my home for the long run. I want to make the right purchase(s) the first time and not be overly reliant on rentals or borrowed equipment, self reliance is important to me. If I must go over 40 or so to get the right equipment that will last me and I will enjoy, we can look at crossing that bridge. But thinking the 50 hp or so tractor or used TLB is a good choice. I've read other threads on this forum comparing TLBs and tractors w/ backhoe attachments, but not seeing a huge advantage other than being higher quality construction and greater weight, but could add weights to a tractor to overcome the difference.
 
   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice #42  
At least in Kubota, the L47 and M62 commercial grade Tractor-Loaders are based on premium tractor models, not economy models.

VIDEO: Comparing Kubota TLB series tractors(B26, L47, M62) - YouTube



Adding weight is not the same as heavier tractor weight from thicker steel. You are seeking longevity, right?

Heavier tractors are constructed on larger frames and are built using thicker steel which withstands high stress. Heavier tractors have larger wheels/tires. A heavier tractor with large diameter tires has more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Large wheels and tires increase ground clearance, enabling a heavier tractor to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less bucking and less operator disturbance.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.
~~Ask me how I know.~~

Buy enough tractor.​
 
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   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice #43  
I've been out here now 37 years. There is one thing you can count on - this winter is bound to be different than last winter. The beauty of the situation - we seldom have more than two feet on the ground at any one time. But there can definitely be years where you really get thumped.

Pugemasta's property - up between Colville & Chewelah - is in mountainous country and can get a lot more snow than here.
 
   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice #44  
   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice #45  
   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice
  • Thread Starter
#46  
Jeff, thank you. Appreciate you filling in my knowledge gaps. Tried to research as much as I could before reaching out, but still much to learn. I am interested in longevity, this property and tractor will be with me for the long haul.

Definitely want to be prepared for the snow and want an implement that won't be a headache clearling a mile of road. Feeling good about a front mounted snowblower, still intrigued by a back blade, but haven't had much time to look into it the last couple days.

LouNY: that would be nice! But might spend some more on something more recent. Will check out Craigslist and the other used tractor website for sure.

Attaching some photos. None of the road, I keep forgetting to take pictures of it... The first shows what is typical of the property (sorry about the greyed out face). The next shows the worst slopes encountered, not planning on driving on those. One more pic for good measure, you can see a neighbor's house on the ridge in the foreground.

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   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice #47  
As oosik can attest, our Winters are variable, at least for the last six years or so that I've lived in the area. We can get multiple feet in a week over multiple storms, or next to nothing like it was a few Winters ago. Would like to be prepared for the heavy years though. After doing some more research, I think a mid PTO tractor with a front snowblower is in my cards, but still open to other options. Back blade? Anyone here use rear pull snowblowers?

Rolling the snowblower into finance would be best, but afterwards is fine. Starting to think I will try and avoid hydraulic.

rscotty: Road is already in and looks pretty good. Needs some TLC and ongoing maintenance. See original post. Planning on building trails/paths elsewhere on the property though. I'm a geologist and work in mining, mind sharing what type of claims you have? Are you actively mining?

For some additional background: I'm about 30 yrs old and plan on making this my home for the long run. I want to make the right purchase(s) the first time and not be overly reliant on rentals or borrowed equipment, self reliance is important to me. If I must go over 40 or so to get the right equipment that will last me and I will enjoy, we can look at crossing that bridge. But thinking the 50 hp or so tractor or used TLB is a good choice. I've read other threads on this forum comparing TLBs and tractors w/ backhoe attachments, but not seeing a huge advantage other than being higher quality construction and greater weight, but could add weights to a tractor to overcome the difference.

OK, I've got the picture now...and just looked at the photos you posted.

That could be my own backyard! Similar weather pattern too. We can have snow from one inch to five feet in succeeding years. Now I can also bet that your soil is probably sandy disintegrated granite (DG) with some porphoritic crystals. Not much clay except in pockets. (Most of the clay washed down to the flat lands.) Occasional rocks & boulders. Lots of Ponderosa pine. Water high in iron and possibly dissolved manganese.

No, I'm not an active miner. Those mining claims are from 100 years ago and are mostly historical. Old mining claims that produced enough to be "patented" is how most local property ended up as pockets of private land within the National Forest & eventually became residential. Mountain houses turned out to be the real "gold" around here. These mines produced a little fluospar with traces of heavy metals like tungsten and such. Not commercially feasible or impressive - just 200 foot by six foot diameter tunnels into the mountain side with ore car tracks and nowdays inhabited by bears and foxes.

There are a couple of us here who have similar property along the rocky mountains and pacific ridge from Arizona right on up into Canada. Lots of us ended up owning similar tractors, too.

On blades vs blowers.....If you get a back blade get a heavy 8 foot blade, hopefully with end caps and definitely with 3-way adjustability. Simple angle adjustment will not do much good for road work. You are going learn to hate always looking over your shoulder....but pulling such a blade with the 3pt is the simplest way to work that really accomplishes things. Used rear blades are as good as new. Ours is an old beat up manual 3 way adj. "Big Rhino" (cost $1000 with end caps) and is tough enough to deal with dg outcroppings. Ugly though....

Does the county where you live use blades or snow-blowers on the secondary roads? That will tell you something.

I hear you on mid mount PTO, but the problem is there are not many medium and larger size tractors out there with mid PTO as there are with rear PTOs

Good snow blowers cost real $$. Most people plow or blade.

Hydraulic vs PTO?? Hydraulic power is fine when it is produced from an Ag tractor or commerical TLB with upwards to 25 g/minute flow at over 3000 psi continuous. The problem is the volume of fluid, expensive pump, and radiator to control the heat. Very few if any compact tractors can make enough continuous hydraulic flow to do real work. But commercial machines from skid steers on up do it all the time. So the compacts - and even some of the medium size Ag and Farm tractors end up using the PTO mechanical drive instead. If you can make enough hydraulic flow, it certainly simplifies things.

Buying larger equipment used is a great way to go IF YOU CAN EVALUATE IT. If not, you have to pay the premium for new.
It's not unusual to end up with a family chore tractor with loader & 4wd....plus an old commercial beast of some sort.
rScotty
 
   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice #48  
Jeff, thank you. Appreciate you filling in my knowledge gaps. Tried to research as much as I could before reaching out, but still much to learn. I am interested in longevity, this property and tractor will be with me for the long haul.

Definitely want to be prepared for the snow and want an implement that won't be a headache clearling a mile of road. Feeling good about a front mounted snowblower, still intrigued by a back blade, but haven't had much time to look into it the last couple days.

LouNY: that would be nice! But might spend some more on something more recent. Will check out Craigslist and the other used tractor website for sure.

Attaching some photos. None of the road, I keep forgetting to take pictures of it... The first shows what is typical of the property (sorry about the greyed out face). The next shows the worst slopes encountered, not planning on driving on those. One more pic for good measure, you can see a neighbor's house on the ridge in the foreground.

View attachment 581953
View attachment 581955
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Beautiful place, I envy you to be able to have this at your age.

A bit of advice, because you will need a good rear blade anyway, go ahead and get it first before any blower. Use it, if it works well for you, then no need to even think about a blower.



Another bit of advice, before you actually purchase the tractor or implements, run it by us first. A lot of the time people simply don't know what to ask about. Specifically about different options that are usually less $$$ when purchased with the main item. These various options can make a HUGE difference with how efficient the equipment gets the job done.

Good luck with your research and your decisions. ;)
 
   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice #49  
Before looking at a TLB, be sure you have enough digging work to justify the cost of the backhoe. I didn稚 see much mentioned above. At least for Kubotas, the TLB series machines are construction grade. This is what you are paying for. Much greater FEL lift capacity, superior backhoe reach, smoothness of operation, and breakout forces. Same great HST plus transmission, and they weight quite a bit more than an equivalent size tractor. Much better hydraulic flow, though still not up to skid steer levels with high flow, so be very careful about hydraulic snow blowers even on these machines. These machines are expensive, but to me worth the investment.
 
   / 40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice
  • Thread Starter
#50  
MtnView: Thanks so much. I think buying a back blade first and adding a snowblower later if I find I really need/want one is a good suggestion, I will probably take it. I do feel very fortunate and am grateful. This is a bit of a life goal I have been saving for.

Good to know hydraulic blowers are best suited to larger, ag tractors. Will stick with PTO driven unless I end up buying something like an m62, I'll reconsider. Thank for the flow requirements, very helpful. I have a co-worker with a wheat farm plus some recreational acreage. He's been farming and using tractors and so forth all his life. He will definitely be coming with me if I look at used. Soil is indeed decomposed granite with some larger cobbles.

Will definitely run my purchase by you all before buying, thank you.

I don't think there will be a ton of digging work right off the bat, digging for new culverts perhaps. But think it would be worthwile for clearing trails and digging out stumps. Open to hear your and other's thoughts.

Anyone know a rough cost on an Antonio Carraro TTR 7600? Is there an Antonio Carraro tractor at about 50 hp w/ hydrostatic?
 

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