4035 stalled while idling

[RedFirstGen]

Billrog- I don't know. I didn't get any farther tonight than pumping the primer and finding no fuel. Sysop- I did download the manual. And did put a little oil on the outer ring before I put the filter on. Somehow I missed any reference to the other little O ring. To try and fix the issue in the morning...my plan was to simply remove the fuel filter, add the little O ring, remove the bleed screw again and prime like crazy hoping to get fuel flow. Is that likely going to work? Should I turn the engine over with the bleeder open? Something else I should or need to do?

 

[Billrog]

I could be wrong but I wouldn't turn the engine over with the bleeder open with my tractor the lift pump works as soon as you turn the key on. You should be able to hear it. If the line has no fuel it could take a while to pump with the primer.

 

[DavesTractor]

Just between you and me; Dave is awesome. He's honestly so awesome I don't think even HE realizes how awesome he is. I don't think he realizes because of all the effort he puts into being awesome, he must also have a HUGE dose of modesty in there as well. Most folk that reach his level of awesome, get a swelled head, then quit trying and kinda fade away. He is just awesome to the core and can't help himself.

Don't tell him I said that...

Stop it. You are going to ruin my modesty, and it will all be your fault! These 4035/5035 tractors are so, so good...but for a few stupid glitches that probably amount to $50 or less if fixed in production. Hose quality, routing of the power-steering hose (get it away from the starter!), and maybe a few grommets here and there to better secure wiring. Then 95% of the problems are gone forever. It looks like the new Tier IV replacements addressed all of these items, and frankly, it's about time.

 

[Billrog]

Here's another thing I've had to do in the past if you have a compressor pressurize the fuel tank a bit just a rag to fill in the space around the air line and give it some air to force the fuel out of the tank.

 

[Sysop]

Stop it. You are going to ruin my modesty, and it will all be your fault! These 4035/5035 tractors are so, so good...but for a few stupid glitches that probably amount to $50 or less if fixed in production. Hose quality, routing of the power-steering hose (get it away from the starter!), and maybe a few grommets here and there to better secure wiring. Then 95% of the problems are gone forever. It looks like the new Tier IV replacements addressed all of these items, and frankly, it's about time.

Just giving credit where credit is due.

My dealer had new 4035s show up on the lot shortly after I purchased mine that had the updated fuel lines from the factory. That being the case I had thought the fixes were showing up prior to the tier4 final engines. Seeing the new hoses on the new unit when my return line started leaking fuel on the ground made me want the new lines rather than repairing them with autoparts hose.

 

[RedFirstGen]

I'm thinking I brought this issue on with my fuel filter change. I'm definitely going to replace the fuel lines but I don't see any leaks anywhere. I pumped the primer like 30 times and can't get ANY fuel to come out of the bleeder.

 

[Sysop]

Can't really speak to what you might have done wrong on the filter, but I can tell ya the only place you'll ever see a leak and the only time you will lose any fuel at all is on the return line. The other line is under vacuum from the pump and when leaking it will introduce air into the fuel stream, no fuel ever leaks out of the line. If the leak is bad enough all the fuel goes back to the tank and it won't build enough pressure to ever draw fuel from the tank (prime the system).

A small leak can result in slow or hard starts, running lean, stuff like that. As the leak gets worse and allows more air in it gets to the point it will not run or hold prime. It is quite likely in changing the filter the leak became bad enough the latter is your cause.

I wouldn't crank the engine to bleed the system, damage to the pump may occur. Many internal parts of the Bosch pumps require the lubrication provided by the fuel being in the system which is why a manual primer is provided.

 

[RedFirstGen]

Thanks!! I'm not going to do any more with it until I get the lines replaced.

 

[RedFirstGen]

Another one . What the heck is the best technique for removing the darn crimps on the ends of the hoses?

 

[Sysop]

Small grinder cutting wheel seems to be what is most mentioned. Put it in a vise to hold it and grind/cut a slit up the side of it and peel it off. Once it is off cut the hose off and under the hose is a standard barb on the end of the metal part of the line.