425 again…movement problems…

[oldnslo]

If you have room to mount the motors they certainly should move the back hoe. Does it self balance or would you also need some stability wheels for self propelled feature to work?
How would you steer the unit?

You may need to add a provision to disconnect the motors so that it can be towed

 

[Modrob]

If you have room to mount the motors they certainly should move the back hoe. Does it self balance or would you also need some stability wheels for self propelled feature to work?
How would you steer the unit?

You may need to add a provision to disconnect the motors so that it can be towed
[/QUOTE
Let’s see…I would have to rig up/add/weld something to mount the motors to—maybe square tubing to use as an axle? It’s sort-of “self balancing” as it is…in tow mode the two short axles are inserted into a cross tube on the bucket end; the end with the motor has an extended tube with ball receiver mounted. If boom is pulled in for “stored mode” then the hitch end is easily lifted with one hand…in working mode, the axles are inserted into cross tube at the rear and then long stabilizers are put in place on bucket end. I’d reconfigure the current wheels to stay on bucket end but are able to be “rotated up” out of the way for stabilizers to slip in. The new wheels would be added at the back. So it would have 4 wheels on at all times. And I wouldn’t be using tow mode for any road travel—I don’t think it’s built hearty enough for that even though some folks do. After all, if it could move under its own power I wouldnt need to tow it.
Steering…hmmm…hadn’t thought that through enough I just realized Thanks! The one fellow on YT that I saw put those full swivel wheels in front of his, but noted they probably should be a little heavier. He steered by changing the flow to one or the other side motors…

 

[Modrob]

Sorry—somehow my answer was put inside the previous comment…

Let’s see…I would have to rig up/add/weld something to mount the motors to—maybe square tubing to use as an axle? It’s sort-of “self balancing” as it is…in tow mode the two short axles are inserted into a cross tube on the bucket end; the end with the motor has an extended tube with ball receiver mounted. If boom is pulled in for “stored mode” then the hitch end is easily lifted with one hand…in working mode, the axles are inserted into cross tube at the rear and then long stabilizers are put in place on bucket end. I’d reconfigure the current wheels to stay on bucket end but are able to be “rotated up” out of the way for stabilizers to slip in. The new wheels would be added at the back. So it would have 4 wheels on at all times. And I wouldn’t be using tow mode for any road travel—I don’t think it’s built hearty enough for that even though some folks do. After all, if it could move under its own power I wouldnt need to tow it.
Steering…hmmm…hadn’t thought that through enough I just realized Thanks! The one fellow on YT that I saw put those full swivel wheels in front of his, but noted they probably should be a little heavier. He steered by changing the flow to one or the other side motors…

 

[ponytug]

@Modrob since your old tractor had a hydraulic "meltdown / explosion", I think that every part of that system should be thought of as containing abrasive metal debris. If you do decide to use pieces (motors, hoses, cylinders, etc.), I would strongly encourage you to clean them out / run pigs through the hoses / disassemble and clean, before using, and install return filters on all hydraulic fluid coming from them, and I would install a magnetic trap like the one @SpringHollow made in the sump.

Personally, I do not think that the risk of destroying the new system by metal debris from the old is worth it, but that's your call. I have heard of it being done on other hydraulic systems, but those systems tend to have more filtration systems installed.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Modrob]

@Modrob since your old tractor had a hydraulic "meltdown / explosion", I think that every part of that system should be thought of as containing abrasive metal debris. If you do decide to use pieces (motors, hoses, cylinders, etc.), I would strongly encourage you to clean them out / run pigs through the hoses / disassemble and clean, before using, and install return filters on all hydraulic fluid coming from them, and I would install a magnetic trap like the one @SpringHollow made in the sump.


Personally, I do not think that the risk of destroying the new system by metal debris from the old is worth it, but that's your call. I have heard of it being done on other hydraulic systems, but those systems tend to have more filtration systems installed.

All the best,

Peter

Hmmmm…yep, good food-for-thought. And yes, I would ensure cleanliness of the motors. (I believe that those would be the only parts I’d use from the 425–otherwise I’m thinking they’re really expensive to buy new, and these will be just sitting there.)
Hmmm…maybe adding a small aux tank, pump system, etc and tie into the HF motor? But I guess that’s getting a little deep…seems so easy in my mind LOL

 

[MossRoad]

Hmmm.... If you don't have one already, now's a good time to get an extra quick attach plate for the 425 and weld a 2" receiver tube to it. Slip in a ball hitch, and weld a 2" hitch socket on the backhoe. Use that to move it longer distances around your place.

The 2" receiver tube on a QA plate is really handy for other things as well.

 

[2manyrocks]

If you get a new PT, I agree with MossRoad to use your 425 to move your BH around.

Also agree with Ponytug that there may be debris in your old 425 system.

 

[Modrob]

Hmmm.... If you don't have one already, now's a good time to get an extra quick attach plate for the 425 and weld a 2" receiver tube to it. Slip in a ball hitch, and weld a 2" hitch socket on the backhoe. Use that to move it longer distances around your place.

The 2" receiver tube on a QA plate is really handy for other things as well.

Yes we will likely purchase an extra quick attach plate. The backhoe already has a 1 7/8 hitch socket on it. I was using the 425 to haul it around—the previous owner had welded on a plate for a ball to mount in. I left it coupled up one day working the backhoe because I was having to move it frequently, and in one instance I got a little too rough and broke the welds. I welded it back on along with a couple of chain hooks and it did ok, but I didn’t trust my welds would hold up to any kind of roughness. So I’d go easy and pull the hoe around just to a new location or back to storage area.
Still, it would be so much less pain to have the ability to move the backhoe with its own power. After towing, I unhook, and using a crank jack I mounted on the tongue of the backhoe, raise it up just to make it steady . Then fire up the hoe, move bucket to one side to raise it, slide out wheel and axle shaft and carry to the back, then insert it into the rear axle tube. Then grab the two pieces of the stabilizer arm and install in bucket end axle tube. Drop that side, then swing bucket to other side and raise. Repeat the wheel and stabilizers movement. Then start digging. Many spots I’ve worked here haven’t been good for lots of room, so crab walking it around takes FOREVER. It would be so much easier to have the ability to move it on wheels. Of course it needs another set of wheels that “swivel up, pin, and out of the way” when working. Those extra wheels would swing down and lock in order to raise the stabilizers off the ground so those heavy things could stay in place. It ain’t no fun having to do the normal routine several times a day—hard on the spine.
But…

 

[Modrob]

If you get a new PT, I agree with MossRoad to use your 425 to move your BH around.

Also agree with Ponytug that there may be debris in your old 425 system.

Very true…

 

[2manyrocks]

Tempted to say the miva mc13 mini excavators are priced around $4200 in middle Tennessee from resellers who buy them at auction. You might find a better buy at auction and sell the HF.