4n1 bucket integrity

[Charlesaf3]

Mines a lincoln now - impressed with the brand (alebeit shocked by the price) I had a harbor freight pneumatic gun that worked once or twice, but the lincoln works well every time.

Makes sense on the zerk flusher. Do they sell them locally?

 

[IslandTractor]

I think the REAL solution to dirt/gritted up zerks that are in vulnerable locations is to replace them with plugs.
Just unscrew the plug, put in a CLEAN zerk, apply grease, replace the zerk with the plug,,, next ?
OK, so it extends your maintenance time a bit, SO ?

Otherwise, just jamming grit and dirt through, just because you CAN with a power grease gun - leads to the obvious conclusion.

I've never seen plugs sold for this purpose. Is it a standard item or are you just using a bolt with the same threads as the zerks? I can never figure out what the threading is on zerks and always need to have a variety of sizes so I don't know quite how to get appropriate plugs. Why doesn't some genius figure out how to make a zerk cover instead?

 

[IslandTractor]

Mines a lincoln now - impressed with the brand (alebeit shocked by the price) ....
Makes sense on the zerk flusher. Do they sell them locally?

I actually got my Lincoln for about $50-60 mail order but I think Lincoln makes a couple of lines. It works fine and came with two batteries so I have no complaints. It looks exactly like the high priced versions including the identical case so I don't know what the difference is.

I have not seen the zerk "flusher" locally. I see the one I have in the NorthernTool catalog but I bought mine for about $10-15 less than the $50 price they are charging. Item 403100-2805 on page 176 of their 2008 catalog. They call it a "grease joint cleaner".

 

[Harry c]

I've never seen plugs sold for this purpose. Is it a standard item or are you just using a bolt with the same threads as the zerks? I can never figure out what the threading is on zerks and always need to have a variety of sizes so I don't know quite how to get appropriate plugs. Why doesn't some genius figure out how to make a zerk cover instead?

Zerks come with all kinds of threads from regular bolt threads to tapered pipe and straight pipe. Obviously in metric as well. The plug must match the threads on the Zerk. If you don't have calipers and a thread gage, most bolt companies can help you determine what threads you're dealing with.

 

[IslandTractor]

Zerks come with all kinds of threads from regular bolt threads to tapered pipe and straight pipe. Obviously in metric as well. The plug must match the threads on the Zerk. If you don't have calipers and a thread gage, most bolt companies can help you determine what threads you're dealing with.

Seems easier to figure out some sort of dust cap for the zerk. Something that would stay on tightly and perhaps need a solid tug or even a tool (?pliers) to get off.

 

[Charlesaf3]

dust cap for the zerk. Now that's brilliant, why has no one come up with that?

You may have a patent there.

For a quickie - they have paint on plastic at home depot... or heavy duty, gorilla, duct tape... might try that last. Even if only 60% hold,thats still an improvement.

I just grab a rag and wipe them off before greasing. Sometimes takes a bit of wiping, but that works pretty well.

maybe tire valve caps tapped on? I'm going to ponder this.

 

[jmfox]

It seems my thread, regarding structural integrity, has attracted a little grease. I would question the significance of dirt on a grease fitting where there are no seals. The parts on most construction machinery designed to accept grease are swimming in contaminates and have no protection. Everywhere grease oozes out is a place for junk to enter. The little dirt that gets on the tip of a fitting can't be that much and most likely is rendered harmless and overwhelmed by the presence of new grease.

jmf

 

[CurlyDave]

I just grab a rag and wipe them off before greasing. Sometimes takes a bit of wiping, but that works pretty well.

I find that a 16d nail makes a marvelous tool to carry along for greasing. If the zerk is recessed, and the recess is packed with crud, I use the nail to force a rag or paper towel into the recess and remove the crud. If the zerk won't take grease, clean the nail and depress the ball in the zerk with the point of the nail.

 

[XCAT]

Here are some pics of my broken new Daedong ( Kioti) 4:1 bucket after 12 hours of farm fencing, I was the unfortunate owner to get Daedongs prototype bucket the first in Australia. A very pour design !. I hope they get better -- my dealer AG POWER did the right thing and credited my bucket back and arranged a high quality bucket made by Hughes in Australia. I have since done a further 100 hrs with the new bucket without any problems at all. However the new bucket is 150 kg heavier than the factory unit. With 2 1/2 4:1 rams the bucket will easily cut a 3 tree branch in half, when picking up rocks / logs etc in the middle no distortion at all.

 

[IslandTractor]

Here are some pics of my broken new Daedong ( Kioti) 4:1 bucket after 12 hours of farm fencing, I was the unfortunate owner to get Daedongs prototype bucket the first in Australia.

That is interesting. Kioti has never imported or branded a 4n1 bucket in the US to my knowledge. Daedong builds engines and tractors but subcontracts all it's implements.

 

[Charlesaf3]

hmm. Forgot to take pictures of my reinforcements now that the logs are out of the bucket. Will do.

I don't think I have the force to cut a tree branch, I'll have to try it. I can drop the bucket over trees, close it, and pull them out by their roots though.

 

[schoolsout]

I was looking for help on those bottom zerks on WR Long 4 in 1 and found this thread...anyone ever come up with anything?

 

[redleicester]

I learned the hard (read: stupid) way with my 4in1 and did indeed bend the middle of the clam lifting a 300kg stump... careless really and just didn't think it through. The outer clam is reinforced on my bucket (it's not an MF one), but also for lifting brush / cords or whatever the sides have "inner teeth" on them - effectively you can "grip" things with the edges of the bucket, so as to encourage you specifically not to use the centre. It works a treat and the teeth bite in to wood and hold it very securely. So securely in fact that on a few occasions I've opened the bucket only to have to dismount and haul the wood off the teeth as it refused to drop!

Apart from that, no, the bucket is VERY substantial indeed - in fact I'd go so far as to say it's got more reinforcement than a "normal" bucket. Also, whilst I've bent the outer clam, I've never managed to much as to dent the inner section, so grading is still nice and easy.

 

[jeffmac]

I know this is a thread about 4n1 bucket integrity.....but I was searching around reading about diesel additives and got sidetracked. Ended up on a page for lubrication and remembered this thread and a discussion of dirt and mud encrusted zerks. Found this link for Zerk caps:
Zerk Fittings Caps.
Haven't used them, just trying to pay a little back for the loads of info I get from the members of TBN.
Jeff