6 volt battery jump starter

[boblibido]

So...

I have a couple of tractors that are still 6 volt systems and have a bit of an issue starting up. The batteries are under two years old, get charged before starting, but still have a problem turning the tractors over.

Has anyone seen (recently) a jump starter for a 6 volt system? I have been looking at engine starters but they all warn against using the engine start feature in 6 volt systems.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ultradog MN]

My best advice is convert them to 12V.
That said, when was the last time you went through the wiring and cleaned all of the connections?
Remember the mantra: Keep 'em clean bright and tight.
I like to use a 1/2" copper fitting brush. In fact I keep one in the tool box on each of my tractors.
Remove each wire one at a time and clean any corrosion off of both the connector and the wire.
Starter, generator, voltage regulator, keyswitch, lights, etc.
This includes both ends of your hot and ground battery cables and also removing the starter and polishing the area of the block and starter where thet mate to insure a good ground.
They will start on 6V but you gotta do the maintenance on them on occasion.

 

[DJ54]

I'm assuming the two Farmalls in your avitar are what your referring to. I've heard a lot of people over the years refer to the IH starters as being lazy. Before doing too much changing over, what gauge battery cables are on the tractors. If they are 4 gauge, like automotive type, this may be the biggest problem, and they are too light of cable. They should be at least 1/0 gauge cables. You can get them custom made at many NAPA stores, and some of the larger tractor dealerships can make them too. Take your old ones in to match for length, or get a real good measure. If there are some sharp bends, get them a little longer, as the heavier cable may not bend so short a radius.

That appears to be a Farmall A, or Super A in your avitar. That one, I'd imagine would be the least expensive to have cables made for. It won't be cheap, but you'll not believe the difference. If your charging system is working well, and batteries in pretty decent shape, you'll think it is a 12V system cranking it over.

I'd imagine a set of 1/0 gauge cables for the A will probably run you in the neighborhood of $60 - $75. But, it's well worth it..!!

 

[boblibido]

Actually, the 400 in my avatar is one of the rare diesels and came as a 12 volt from the factory. She's my pride and joy.

The other one is a super a that I was going to rewire as soon as it warmed up. The one giving me the most problem is the '47 cub sitting in my yard. She only cranks when she feels like it.

I wanted to find something to make sure I always had the most amperage going through the system when I tried to turn them over. Most systems are 12 volt specific and I really do not want to melt anything.

Oh, and the battery cables will be changed out on all of them at some point this year. It is on my to do list. I just find it so hard to spend hundreds of dollars on what amounts to 2 cables per tractor.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I wonder if you would be able to buy larger cables from a shop that sells supplies for semi trucks. This is years ago but I had an 8 foot battery cable made up for around the $100 mark.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Another thing you can try, if they still make them, is to swap out the 6 volt battery with an 8 volt. We had to do that one an AC WD45 once. It was a lazy starter and putting that extra 2 volts into it make it crank a bit faster and enabled it to start much faster. The 8 volts wont hurt anything in the 6 volt system including the lights.
As I said, I don't know if they make them anymore, but they were common items back in the early 60's.

 

[Gem99ultra]

+1 on the 8 volt batteries. You'll notice the difference for sure. And yes, they are still readily available.

If the Farmall is all still original, I'd hesitate to convert it to a 12v system. That'll kill and 'collector' value. Unfortunately, that is the case with a lot of old Ford 9N/8N, etc. 12v with alternators...

 

[Winmac]

I installed a 8v battery in a 6v application, yes it did start better but the down fall was keeping it properly charged. Even with tweeks to the regulator it never charged the battery properly and it died prematurely.

 

[DJ54]

If you have an O'Reilly's Auto parts store near you, they can get you cable assemblies already made up. Here is a link showing the prices in y area. List: Battery Cables & Accessories - Universal: 2/0: BWD | O'Reilly Auto Parts

And here is one I found after getting the 2/0 set made for my Super C a couple years ago. Not sure what shipping would be, but much less than a parts store. At the time, I needed the cables PDQ, so opted just to have NAPA make mine. 2/0 Black 24" Long 3/8" x Neg. Post Lugs

 

[Ultradog MN]

I don't think it does much good to install an 8V battery if you don't know how to adjust your voltage regulator to make it charge. That's getting to be kind of a lost art.
I do agree on bigger cables though. I usually make up all my own from welding cable.
Buy the solder on ends from Napa and make them fit just right.

 

[boblibido]

I live in a very rural area so I have the perfect tractor parts store that will make anything custom and so far has come up with all of the parts I've been looking for.

They've actually taken parts off of their Farmall tractor and sold them to me. Very obscure parts of course.

Thanks for all of the help! I will have new battery cables as soon as it warms up enough for me to take the old ones off.

With that being said...
I'm still going to ask if anyone knows of a 6 volt battery starter?

 

[boblibido]

If it ain't red leave it in the shed...

HAHAHA!

 

[mostly_gas]

Schumacher still makes a wheeled charger that does both 12V and 6V and 2/10/40 amp output. $120 at Walmart probably available elsewhere. Hope this helps.

 

[boblibido]

Thanks for the help!

 

[pat32rf]

A short shot of 12volt will not harm a six volt starter, just make it spin faster. They are series motors and as a result the current climbs as they slow down. It is the current increase that burns things out. The current will be greater with a fully charged six volt spinning it than it will with a 12 volt. Its the rest of the system that you must worry about so for starting just jumper to the starter motor while leaving the "key" on but do not try to start with the six volt at the same time. At least that was our old auto mechanics teacher's take on things. As an electrician it makes sense...
Of course if you "stall" the starter motor, all bets are off...with either voltage battery

 

[kydick]

i have a 6-12 volt battery starter charger from napa. also think most 6 volt batteries are positive ground.

 

[Scrambler82]

When you redo the cables, add new ground wires to the frame and engine, also a ground wire to one of the starter mounting bolts. This will give the starter a better electrical path when it's time to draw some juice.

If the ground path for the starter is through the engine mounts, through rust, dirt, corrosion of all types, the current flow will be reduced and effectively the voltage will be reduced.
Clean up all electrical connections.

 

[grnspot110]

If you park your tractors close enough to an electric outlet, I found a 6V "Battery Butler" on ebay, which is a version of a battery tender. I keep my JD 40S plugged in when not in use.

As for changing over to 12V, not for collection tractors!!! I prefer to keep mine as "original" as possible.

 

[Looking4new]

I'm still going to ask if anyone knows of a 6 volt battery starter?

Is there a place that rebuilds starters near you? If yes, then get them to rebuild the starter and specify that you want it 6 volts.

 

[Scrambler82]

If you park your tractors close enough to an electric outlet, I found a 6V "Battery Butler" on ebay, which is a version of a battery tender. I keep my JD 40S plugged in when not in use.

As for changing over to 12V, not for collection tractors!!! I prefer to keep mine as "original" as possible.

The only problem with charging every night is it does not fix think the problem.
There is something burning up the current when you attempt to start the tractor.
You need to fix the problem, then you can keep the 6 volt system.

Is there a place that rebuilds starters near you? If yes, then get them to rebuild the starter and specify that you want it 6 volts.

X2, in fact have the generator rebuilt too, with the rebuilt gen and starter and the new cables things should get back to normal.
Don't forget the extra ground cable,to the starter bolt.

Good luck, chasing electrical demons isn't always fun.

Second thoughts... If you can't get a rebuilder or rebuilt starter, cleaning up the insides of an older starter isn't to hard. Take apart, use some emery cloth and clean up the end of the armature, where the brushes ride, scrap the carbon out of the lines between the segments of the armature. Check the larger round section for rusting, clean it up too. Clean the inside of the starter housing, small brush, smooth out any rusting.
The only problem will be the brushes, if they are wore out they will need to be replaced, not sure where to go for replacements.

Also, while apart, you should look at the bendix spring assembly, if you have one in that starter, important part that needs to work properly.

Going to a rebuilder will eliminate any problems of finding parts.

Again, good luck