Sounds like more of an electrical connection problem being that it died that quick. A simple test light will help you diagnose that problem. Put the clip end on a good ground, battery is best if the lead is long enough. Put the tester end on the input side of coil from switch, it should light up with switch in the run position. If you show voltage there, with tractor in neutral, put tester on the output side, and roll the engine over with the starter. Test light should flash. If it flashes, put the tester on the connection point on the distributor and turn over, you should see it flash. Doing that, you know your wiring is good to there. Remove the distributor cap and check the connection inside, you should still see if flashing when turning over. I have seen those Bakelite insulators crack, and short out on the distributor case.
If you have voltage to there, turn the switch off for a moment. Rotate engine until points touch. Turn switch on, and break/separate the points manually with a small screwdriver, you should see a small spark when the points separate. If you see a spark, look closely at the points, especially the rub block. The lesser expensive contact points set's rub blocks can wear, bend, or completely come off. The one on my TO35 Ferguson was completely gone. Friends of mine literally gave me this tractor and several attachments just to get it out of their yard. They got frustrated after piddling with it, and just wanted it gone. A new points & condenser kit, new plugs, purged/cleaned the fuel system, and a good carb cleaning, and it fired right up. A few more issues to deal with when I get time but should be a good useable tractor once time allows to look into those.
If you have voltage to inside the distributor, I'd have to guess it's the condenser. Some simple diagnostics like this can save you a lot of money just throwing parts at it.
