6013 vs 7014 vs 7018

[rangerfredbob]

Most likely standard polarity versus reverse polarity, being that 10018 is probably like 7018 being a DC rod, polarity makes a big difference, which would make sense.

 

[user.69169]

Contacted the man who done it for directions.
Brine thawed bird for 24 hours and shove 2 x 2 oak straight thru.
Mount bird on positioner
6 Amps per pound
Switch polarity every hour
Rotate slow to keep splatter down
Wet towel around carcas if needed to keep moist DONT use aluminum foil
Reduce amperage after 4 hours so de skin dont burn.

 

[Oldpath05]

IF this is another explanation of "how to keep a turkey in suspense", it's WORKING... ... Steve

Gee I almost thought you of all the turkeys here would've got that light bulb awakening. But rangerfredbob was very close. Well if you can believe it I welded with lb of 10018 electrodes on AC setting, it took me a good lb of wire before the light bulb came on, talk about stupid, I could never even strike a arc with my other AC machines. The lever on the left was on AC or in the middle position, DUH................

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^
Thank you for making like Paul Harvey and telling us "the rest of the story." I thought that I'd stumbled into the middle of a Hitchcock cliffhanger...

 

[MF RED in MT]

Could you to explain your explanation.

What I looked up for 1/8" 10018-DE MR welding rod is listed for typical operating procedures is:

DC+ and AC

What I listed was kind of shorthand, sorry, and I meant that he may have been welding direct current straight polarity (DCSP), and it should be run using direct current reverse polarity (DCRP).

And I did not mention anything about Alternate Current (AC) because this rod can be welded using AC.

Maybe the OP has a sightly different brand of welding rod?

Here is the link to what I used:

KC

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/ass...teels-Excalibur-Excalibur10018-D2MR/c2109.pdf

 

[Oldpath05]

I look at the box the rods came in and they are what you said. But take it from me if thats Lincolns example of a DC/AC electrode someone has been breathing to much welding fumes or someone loves to speak in tongues while welding. The initial start was ok-ish but restart was terrible and was more spattery, but after the light bulb came on I switched to DC reverse then the 10018s welded smooth and nice. If someone here can weld with those on AC they are a better stick welder then I am and I love to see someone try to weld with those using mirrors on AC, if that wouldn't cause anyone to speak in tongues nothing will. My example of a DC/AC rod is 6011, not 10018......

 

[Fallon]

Could you to explain your explanation.

The story goes turkeys are so stupid that in the rain they look up with their mouth open & drown from the rain falling down their throat. While I've never seen that personally, we have had a couple baby turkeys drown themselves in their water dish despite leaving it full of pebbles so they couldn't get their head in. They would push their head under water & drown in 1/2" of water.

 

[BrokenTrack]

At home, 90% of what I weld with is 6011, just because of paint and rust, and it is not like the weld is going to break. Goodness, have you ever tacked something together wrong and then tried to take it apart? It is plenty strong.

If I want something better than 6011, then I grab 7018. Those are the only two types of rods I keep around the farm though.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Glad to help; I really like your fume setup, got most of the stuff to make one now I just need to find a few more of those circular things called "tuit"

I really should get that done, couple years ago I actually found myself laying on the ground after mig welding a stainless bolt to a mild steel square to make a gate hinge. Hexavalent Chrome poisoning is NO JOKE, just one dumb-azz mistake and it took a couple minutes before I could walk without falling over... Steve

I am not sure what happened, perhaps you inhaled the argon but it sure wasnt hexavalent chrome poisoning.
I have TIG welded more stainless, and chrome alloy piping than most people have ever seen (like 10 hours per day 5-7 days a week for years) with no mask, no smoke extractor, etc, just a welding hood and never had any issues. All the stainless alloy welders welded in an enclosed 5x6x7 foot shack enclosed with plastic to keep out the wind/ rain and supervisors to an extent and no one ever had even a headache from welding chromium alloys.
When all the hub-bub started about hexavalent chromium poisoning all the alloy welder had to wear a little machine that ran a hose up inside our hoods and sucked up a sample of the air we were breathing all day. The filter was sent off for testing and no chromium was ever detected.

 

[user.69169]

Gary you ain't sposta introduce facts or reality into chrome threads.

Some school runnin fellow wid Degrees said it happens so just like Freon 12 disintegrates in Stratosphere it happens and kids don't get to touch SS. Nother couple years dey probably swap out SS sinks and cooking pots too to keep little darlings safe.

Put de 309 rod back in de lockbox and use 7018. Some engineer can make it sound right.

 

[deereman75]

I'll be the one to throw in an unpopular opinion.... For farm welding I'm really a fan of the specialty maintance rods... ArcTec, Cronatron, Sodel, ect
I run ArcTec typically... 223xc is like a 7018 but 85ksi and roughly 6% better elongation than 7018. And it's moisture repellent is good for 2-3 years out of an oven. And runs nicer than any 7018.
222 is intended for "unskilled welders" 80,000psi and a literal monkey could run it. 221rp is along the lines of 6010/6011 but again stronger and more ductile.

Is it for everything? No.... Is it expensive? Of course. Would a fabrication shop run these rods? Of course not.

But if you're doing heavy equipment repair where down time is $2-300 an hour or if you're someone who burns a box or two of rods a year, is spending an extra $25 a box really a big deal if it makes your life easier?

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'll be the one to throw in an unpopular opinion.... For farm welding I'm really a fan of the specialty maintance rods... ArcTec, Cronatron, Sodel, ect
I run ArcTec typically... 223xc is like a 7018 but 85ksi and roughly 6% better elongation than 7018. And it's moisture repellent is good for 2-3 years out of an oven. And runs nicer than any 7018.
222 is intended for "unskilled welders" 80,000psi and a literal monkey could run it. 221rp is along the lines of 6010/6011 but again stronger and more ductile.

Is it for everything? No.... Is it expensive? Of course. Would a fabrication shop run these rods? Of course not.

But if you're doing heavy equipment repair where down time is $2-300 an hour or if you're someone who burns a box or two of rods a year, is spending an extra $25 a box really a big deal if it makes your life easier?

I keep a box of 223's around for welding cast iron. They are not easier to strike than a 7018AC but definatly easier than a 7018.

 

[deereman75]

I'm not really crazy about them for cast... My preference is still brazing having done hundreds of cast repairs. Gas welding a close second.
Dedicated cast rod like supercast 90 a distant third...

Cast steel though 223xc is GREAT. I originally got onto them for welding cast steel clevis ends onto 1045 hydraulic rods. But between the general nicer running and the not needing an oven, I just switched entirely to them from 7018. Well almost entirely. I still keep 7018 around but rarely use them.

I've never really had an issue with 7018 restrikes. I tend to whip the rod away fast when I break the arc, and that ball of slag flies off in the process. Just run your finger over the end to break the crust off and it restarts like a new rod

 

[Oldpath05]

I never heard of 222 223 rods. I got to many pin holes with 7018 AC so I dont use them.

 

[deereman75]

I never heard of 222 223 rods. I got to many pin holes with 7018 AC so I dont use them.

They're ArcTec proprietary rods, not sure how easy they are to find south of the border... Companies such as Weldmold, Cronatron, harris welco, ect may make similar
I know for example ArcTec Unicrom is roughly equivalent to Harris Super Missileweld

 

[Ortimber]

At home, 90% of what I weld with is 6011, just because of paint and rust, and it is not like the weld is going to break. Goodness, have you ever tacked something together wrong and then tried to take it apart? It is plenty strong.

If I want something better than 6011, then I grab 7018. Those are the only two types of rods I keep around the farm though.

Similar to me. I've welded with every rod imaginable, and now only have 6010 and 7018 on hand. That combination works great for everything but really thin metal.

 

[Oldpath05]

They're ArcTec proprietary rods, not sure how easy they are to find south of the border... Companies such as Weldmold, Cronatron, harris welco, ect may make similar
I know for example ArcTec Unicrom is roughly equivalent to Harris Super Missileweld

Not easy at all, as far as I get is Artec web site and on there they say those rods are for cast iron........

 

[deereman75]

Definitely not for cast iron, perhaps you're looking at one of their other products?

Not easy at all, as far as I get is Artec web site and on there they say those rods are for cast iron........

 

[Oldpath05]

:thumbsup: Yup your right, I must of got it mixed up with wrong headline........

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS:

ARCTEC 222 is a specially developed all position low alloy steel electrode for fabrication and
maintenance work. It produces smooth, spatter free welds with either AC or DC equipment. Can be used as a
contact electrode. Easy slag removal guarantees a minimum of clean up and finishing. Has excellent welding
characteristics in all positions and produces sound crack free deposits.
APPLICATIONS:
ARCTEC 222 is recommended for general maintenance and repair welding as it produces welds that
are virtually spatter free. Excellent for welding thin gauge sheet metal without slag interference. ARCTEC 222
is used on: Ornamental iron components, railings, furniture, galvanized sheet metal, thin gauge steel, vehicle
exhaust systems and other applications where a clean surface for painting is required.

 

[deereman75]

Their website is not exactly easy to navigate....
One of those old school companies where if you want their product you phone a sales rep and talk about what you're doing and what you'd be looking for.

Best comparisons I can think of would be 222 is similar to an 8014 but a bit more forgiving and nicer to run

223xc is somewhere between 8018 and 9018, but has better elongation, is nicer to run and doesn't require an oven

221rp is like what a bit more forgiving and nicer to run 7011 would be.

Other rod I'd say that I actually quite like for some things are these lincoln 7013 who's name is escaping me at the moment. I often use them for outside work that would otherwise be done with mig. No real reason to prefer them over 7014 that I can think of though.....