7018 weld advise. Pics.

[the old grind]

(removed) & ruffdog, I got a lot of out of page two. Thanks! jon

btw, I have trouble following the gap or previous bead even in 2F. :laughing:

 

[user.69169]

(removed) & ruffdog, I got a lot of out of page two. Thanks! jon

btw, I have trouble following the gap or previous bead even in 2F. :laughing:

Tell you true, last 10 years I been known to GPS a few passes myself. Honest to God, I absolutely swear I heard voice say turn left here.

Kinda like lot of thing in dis black art, ders a trick or2. Old fashion school chalk line next to pass might keep you on straight & narrow.
Spritz little water on chalk line after drawn - ark generally cook line in place real good. Even better on light tin dat chalk keep lot of spatter from stickin.

 

[GeneV]

So what痴 the goal with the edges? Burn wider? Bevel the edges? Run colder?

Hi hersheyfarm, well looks to me you got yourself some undercut there. Either heat too high and/or arc too long.

 

[Hersheyfarm]

Wasnt in the mood to burn metal tonight but couldnt resist a quicky wile i was in barn. 6011. Watched a couple vids on 6010(I cant find 6010 anywhere) and seems the trick is to whip away from puddle to get heat off then go back over. So I tried again on the 1/8 gap. I have no idea why I am welding a gap when everything Illl do is tight fit up. But didnt burn as bad on the sides but also didnt weld all the way through on bottom. 1/4 plates.

 

[Hersheyfarm]

Hi hersheyfarm, well looks to me you got yourself some undercut there. Either heat too high and/or arc too long.

Yea. Those plate are 1/4 inch no bevel and 1/8 inch gap. Not sure why I am practicing it, but it was suggested to.

 

[user.69169]

On 1/4 burnin 1/8 rod a gap'll do ya as well as beveling and save a lot of prep time less you got a bevel cutter.

Gettin a bit concerned yer overthinkin dat puddle. Forget de whip, you ain't weldin pipe, and pick yer travel speed up a bit.

 

[Hersheyfarm]

Going too slow. Never really been my problem except with this. I will try some faster. I think I get hypnotized trying to watch my puddle.

 

[the old grind]

... Gettin a bit concerned yer overthinkin dat puddle. Forget de whip, you ain't weldin pipe, and pick yer travel speed up a bit.

Should the drag angle be almost vertical to fill the gap better?

Going too slow... I will try some faster. I think I get hypnotized trying to watch my puddle.

I sure do .. every time .. with or without a flux puddle distract ... And remembering every bead we lay down is developing 'muscle memory' and enhancing our coordination & polish our aim.

Hf, I admire your work and your progress & hope my questions will help us all.

 

[ruffdog]

Yea. Those plate are 1/4 inch no bevel and 1/8 inch gap. Not sure why I am practicing it, but it was suggested to.

The ability to "whip" on/off the puddle when needed is a good skill to practice. I use it when the material is dirty, has gaps, or the thickness gets thin. One of the most helpful things to teach a beginner is body position. It sounds silly but simple things can really make a difference.

 

[user.69169]

Problem just might be too many video on line.

Guy starts just bout craps his pants first time he lights off a rod and whole world goes from darkness to light show. Not sure how he made dat happen, but he did. Den everything he saw on video or read all crashes together between ears and its freakout time.

Guy who can gasweld kind of has idea what happening, and hand/eye thing just need translate stick controls puddle like torch did.

Gets worse when fellow remembers there maybe 500 rods and thinks maybe he got wrong rod so he switch rod. Worse yet if he got machine wid DRO. Read someplace so many volts & so many amps, sets machine and either sticks rod or blows hole. But the video made it look so easy.

Next problem, I standin der I can hear for most part what's wrong and STOP guy before habit gets stuck in skull. Not der, sure can't stop guy or fix problem den & dere. Homework shows up on WWW, and guy is pissed. I can't turn back time.

Give me new guy or girl, my shop, 50# of rod to burn and by end of can he be good running stringers, able to build 4" square box from 6 plates & butter outside. Know a trick or 5 on fabricating too. Guess kind of like teaching baby to walk, 1 step at a time. Baby get so far he wants to run, usually crashes.

Hi, welcome to (removed) Tech. We gonna start wid presumption you a virgin to welding. Day 1 you learn which end rod lives in stinger, and get to burn up some rod so you don't crap yerself when spark show starts. Next you learn to run stringers, nice straight stringers dat look like stringer next to each other. I only teacher, got limits on what I can do. You student, gotta learn. I can't learn for you. You never get as good as me, you get better den me cause (removed) is old fart wid bad eyesight and Art Ritus. You alone gonna do de learning. Come a time soon all comes together and you think you know everything. After dat, you really start learning.

 

[RoyKing]

I think you did good, you can't expect to get to the bottom with no bevel. You've got your heat better than before

 

[GeneV]

Guys, that tip on setting 100 amps for 1/8" 6011 and 3/16" 7018, that's real handy thank you!

 

[user.69169]

Guys, that tip on setting 100 amps for 1/8" 6011 and 3/16" 7018, that's real handy thank you!

3/32, not 3/16. You try runnin 3/16 7018 @ 100 amps 10 pound hammer to back of stinger won't get you penetration.

3/16 does make real good hinge pins in 1/8 iron pipe barrel.

 

[GeneV]

3/32, not 3/16. You try runnin 3/16 7018 @ 100 amps 10 pound hammer to back of stinger won't get you penetration.

3/16 does make real good hinge pins in 1/8 iron pipe barrel.

Oh yeh sorry, I meant 3/32, I've yet to weld anything requiring >1/8" rod. I'm also fairly new to welding, as some of you know. I picked up the tip to use the decimal method for finding amps, ie 1/8" rod = 0.125, 125 amps as ballpark, 3/32" rod = 0.094, so 94 amps. It gets me in the general ballpark, and then I adjust depending on how the bead is laying down. Look at me, I'm writing this like I'm welding every day lol! Not.

 

[user.69169]

Everybody pretty much started knowin nothin, and lot of dem finished up 40 years later still knowin nothin.
Had a bud 30 years back who was one of the best I ever saw stick on pipe. Artist of pipe Sam was. Couldn't weld angle, plate or chanel to save his tail. Couldn't keep track of his check book either, dat near got him in de jailhouse.

Sam could fit plate or shape wid a torch & grinder, but he couldn't weld it out. Spent more time sculpting wid a grinder den burnin rod. Lot of laughs and some good times. Sam contracted a job to weld 2" pipe fence on top of jersey wall on an expressway, and was doin fine, right up to de day he stepped back to admire his work. Still miss dat crazy man.

 

[the old grind]

There are things I do quite well, actually.

Welding isn't one of them.

 

[Peter 315]

 

[Tractor Seabee]

When I was welding pipe in younger days; always bevel with a flat land width of rod diameter and gap same as rod diameter. Do root pass with 6010 DCR or 6011 AC/DCS. All the low hydrogen (7018 and others) or the 6013/14/7014 rods do not fast freeze enough to make a properly gapped root weld. If you root pass does not show a definite bead above the surface on the reverse of a single side bevel you have a weak weld that will not pass inspection of any type. On a double sided bevel it is very important to clean (with a thin grinding wheel) to remove any slag leaving bright metal. Guaranteed weak joint. I never use lo- hydrogen rods as I have no rod oven to keep dry. 6014 and 7014 are good multiple pass fillers. On A36/A54 steel, 70K PSI and higher of any type is a waste. 6010 and 6014 produce a weld strength equal or > the pipe strength. My opinion, there are many weld procedures that would refute that.

Ron

 

[GeneV]

When I was welding pipe in younger days; always bevel with a flat land width of rod diameter and gap same as rod diameter. Do root pass with 6010 DCR or 6011 AC/DCS. All the low hydrogen (7018 and others) or the 6013/14/7014 rods do not fast freeze enough to make a properly gapped root weld. If you root pass does not show a definite bead above the surface on the reverse of a single side bevel you have a weak weld that will not pass inspection of any type. On a double sided bevel it is very important to clean (with a thin grinding wheel) to remove any slag leaving bright metal. Guaranteed weak joint. I never use lo- hydrogen rods as I have no rod oven to keep dry. 6014 and 7014 are good multiple pass fillers. On A36/A54 steel, 70K PSI and higher of any type is a waste. 6010 and 6014 produce a weld strength equal or > the pipe strength. My opinion, there are many weld procedures that would refute that.

Ron

I have a thread on tbn somewhere asking about 6013/7014/7018 comparisons for filler/top pass, and I came away with the opinion that for most hack welders like myself, it's all the same except 7018 is also a prima-donna when it comes to storage. BTW outside of the US, 6013 is used for root passes. Here's a quick article: E613 Welding Rod, What Can You Do With It? | Everlast Generators

 

[Hersheyfarm]

After finding a fixing a leak on my new excavator i did some passes. Heated the plate up and warped the crap out of it. Just burning mindlessly. Back and forth 6011 and 7018.