8B Backhoe On A 4200?

[dfkrug]

The valve needs a rebuild. Some of the movements stick. Others cause the engine to bog. A couple work just fine. The stabilizers cause the relief valve to go off. Its a $279 kit to rebuild the control valve and the relief valve. I might have to spend the money on that and flush every hose too. At that point I might as well rebuild all the cylinders too. A project for a different summer.

Excellent, Leo!

Not only have you got this working well, you have been amazingly productive,
completing this job very quickly. Hopefully others will be inspired to
build their own subframes.

I assume you have lubed up all the linkages on your valve, correct?
The outriggers set off the RV in mid-stroke, or ? That's interesting.

It seems you have already flushed the hoses.

So, I guess the ROPS mods have to wait until next year, too?

 

[arrabil]

I assume you have lubed up all the linkages on your valve, correct? The outriggers set off the RV in mid-stroke, or ? That's interesting.

No, I didn't do anything to the linkages or valve or anything really. I wanted to see where it was at before I did anything to it.

The outriggers are one of the things that work right in one direction but not the other. I don't remember if it was up or down but at half way or more on the lever they would bog the engine and you could hear some kind of squealing. I was guessing at what that means.... this hydraulics stuff is all new to me.

It seems you have already flushed the hoses.

True. I was thinking more like unscrew them and get the crud out of the ends. One of the hoses that goes to the power beyond leaks too.

Excellent, Leo!
Not only have you got this working well, you have been amazingly productive, completing this job very quickly. Hopefully others will be inspired to build their own subframes.

Thanks! I'm gonna tell the wife you thought I worked fast. We put the backhoe in the way of the X475 getting out so I haven't mowed since we got it. Needless to say, my wife does not think that it has been going quickly at all.

So, I guess the ROPS mods have to wait until next year, too?

?


Are the boom and swing transport pins necessary? $50 and $19 respectively. Are they $69+tax necessary?

 

[dfkrug]

If you bump your head hard enough, you will want to extend the ROPS.

You should see the ROPS on the 955. The guy who has my 955TLB has
to lean forward a lot for his head to clear the ROPS when he is on the
hoe seat.

As for the transport locks, I use a boom lock all the time because the
boom will gradually leak down. I never use a swing lock because side
forces are not constant and big enough to move it, even when the PB
lines are disconnected. I would make your own boom lock.

 

[JD755]

You should see the ROPS on the 955. The guy who has my 955TLB has
to lean forward a lot for his head to clear the ROPS when he is on the
hoe seat.

I remember back when I bought my 755 the dealer had a lot of x55 ROPS out back leaning against the wall. They were all new tractor take-offs from tractors they had installed a back hoe on, and replaced with the taller one that was available and required for back hoes. I'm sure in later years there were second and third owner tractors that had hoes installed without also making the ROPS change.

 

[arrabil]

Direction seven under Preparing Tractor in the 47 manual says to install the Tall Folding ROPS.

I'm short enough that it doesn't matter. I will likely move the lights to the top of the bar. And I would move the seat lower before touch the ROPS too. I could lower it close to a foot I bet.

 

[RoyJackson]

Direction seven under Preparing Tractor in the 47 manual says to install the Tall Folding ROPS.

I'm short enough that it doesn't matter. I will likely move the lights to the top of the bar. And I would move the seat lower before touch the ROPS too. I could lower it close to a foot I bet.

Seems like I recall problems (on the 770 or 790) from folks hitting their heads on the ROPS when "riding" the backhoe up to the connections (setting on the seat while using the dipper and stabilizors to lift the 'hoe).
Apparently, IIRC, some were hurt seriously...

Brother Arrabil...might want to get a hard hat!

 

[dfkrug]

They were all new tractor take-offs from tractors they had installed a back hoe on, and replaced with the taller one that was available and required for back hoes.

I heard about those taller replacement ROPS, but I have never seen one.
I HAVE seen orphaned original x55 ROPS at the dealer, however.

The 4x00s and 4x10s need a taller ROPS, too. I am not sure about the
3x20s, since they are so different.

 

[RoyJackson]

I heard about those taller replacement ROPS, but I have never seen one.

Guy down the road from me has a 790 with a #7 'hoe. He's got the ROPS extensions (the ROPS sections on the old x70, 790 and (I guess) the 3005 are bolted together rather then formed thick walled tubing).
As tall as the folding ROPS on my 4400 is, I don't think you'd need a taller unit.
Added: After looking at Arrabil's installation, I guess that folding ROPS isn't tall enough!

 

[dfkrug]

As tall as the folding ROPS on my 4400 is, I don't think you'd need a taller unit.

Apparently the folding ROPS was optional, and my 4300 does not have it.
The folding ones would be easier to lengthen.

 

[arrabil]

Three ROPS choices for one tractor.... seems silly.

 

[arrabil]

Some minor progress.... This is the entire subframe. I'm going to reinforce it and complete all the welds and it will be ready for paint.


So an interesting consequence of installing the backhoe popped up. My one rear tire has always lost air slowly. Due to dry rot I'm pretty sure. The extra 1000# of the backhoe really sped up the pace of the air loss and so the tire sat without air pressure for a couple days. Now there are sidewall cracks. Can I just put a tube in it until the tire disintegrates naturally or is this tire just done?

 

[RoyJackson]

Some minor progress.... This is the entire subframe. I'm going to reinforce it and complete all the welds and it will be ready for paint.


So an interesting consequence of installing the backhoe popped up. My one rear tire has always lost air slowly. Due to dry rot I'm pretty sure. The extra 1000# of the backhoe really sped up the pace of the air loss and so the tire sat without air pressure for a couple days. Now there are sidewall cracks. Can I just put a tube in it until the tire disintegrates naturally or is this tire just done?

That frame is lookin' good, Arrabil!!

As far as the tire...well, you're going through all the work of pulling the tire off (your tires are filled, aren't they?). If you have the bucks, may as well replace it.
Anyway, you property is pretty sloped. Do you want to chance that tire coming apart when you're on a minor side slope?

 

[arrabil]

Yeah, I have to get the RimGuard out. I need to get a barrel from the guy down the street. I was planning on taking out the RG anyway just so as not to carry around 600 extra pounds.

Two new 8 ply turfs are almost $1K. So I'd rather milk these for all they're worth. I don't think they'll catastrophically come apart while going up and down the hills. You really think thats possible? I'm only doing 3.5mph max since I never take it out of A range.

If I do put a tube in... I might get three days out of the tire or I might get two years, right? Is there a tire reconditioner I could apply?

 

[RoyJackson]

Yeah, I have to get the RimGuard out. I need to get a barrel from the guy down the street. I was planning on taking out the RG anyway just so as not to carry around 600 extra pounds.

Two new 8 ply turfs are almost $1K. So I'd rather milk these for all they're worth. I don't think they'll catastrophically come apart while going up and down the hills. You really think thats possible? I'm only doing 3.5mph max since I never take it out of A range.

If I do put a tube in... I might get three days out of the tire or I might get two years, right? Is there a tire reconditioner I could apply?

I see your point about the dollars for those tires...guess I wasn't expecting it to be quite that much!
With a grand to replace 'em, I'd go for the tube too. Are you planning on putting tubes in both tires?
As far as the catastrophic failure...well, that's a possibility with an excessive side load but as long as you keep a good eye on them, you'll be OK. Weather checking should take a long time to progress to a dangerous stage.

Personally, I've never hear of a reconditioner that was anything more then for cosmetics...

 

[arrabil]

Yeah, I'm thinking tubes in both. Gotta remove the RimGuard from both either way.

I think I'm gonna sell the RimGuard too. At this point I'm thinking either the backhoe is on or I'm taking it off specifically to put something on the 3pt. So I don't need the ballast anymore. Anyone need 60 gallons of RimGuard?

 

[dfkrug]

Yeah removing the rimguard makes sense, since you now have
removable ballast (the hoe). I have removed liquid from a set of
rears before, and it is a tough job, esp since you want to save the
liquid.

I will bet those turfs have at least 6 plies, yes? A friend has a tractor
with 30 yo turfs on it, and tons of surface checking. They keep
going and going with no leaks so far......

 

[arrabil]

The RimGuard is coming out the same way it went in.... the drill pump. It was a breeze to add it. I think removing it will work the same way.

My turfs are 4 ply. They are all 4 ply in this size except for one Titan tire is 8 ply. The current 4 ply tires are rated at 1540#. The 8 ply are 2340#. My 4 ply are 1760#. The interesting thing about the current 4 ply... thats not enough weight carrying capacity to have anything in the bucket when the backhoe is on. The 8 ply is only $40 more per tire but is basically special order.

 

[dfkrug]

The current 4 ply tires are rated at 1540#. The 8 ply are 2340#. My 4 ply are 1760#. The interesting thing about the current 4 ply... thats not enough weight carrying capacity to have anything in the bucket when the backhoe is on.

How do you figure? If you mean your loader bkt, then any weight you
add to it takes weight OFF the rears. Just as the heavy hoe takes
weight off your front tires. I figure your total weight is just under 5000#.
F/R distribution is maybe 60/40, or a bit more rear bias. That puts
3000# on the rear and 2000# on the front. If your fronts are 1540#
rated, then you have about 1100 capacity left for FEL loads.

 

[arrabil]

I wasn't thinking it out that far. Your way is just as bad though since the the 4 ply fronts are only 1320#. Mine failed last year and I replaced them with the 6 ply 1640#. My whole point is that the oem turfs are at the limit of meeting the tractor's load carrying needs. I was thinking of switching to R4s if I needed to buy new tires but I really like the turfs overall.

 

[arrabil]

The sub frame is built. Prep and paint is all thats left. Gonna call a guy I know about sandblasting and powder coating it on the cheap (hopefully).

I added some casters. They help a LOT in moving the thing around and should make it easier to line up for installing too. They're threaded stem casters so they can be removed after the subframe is installed. I was thinking of making them flip-up but decided against spending the time on it.