Flail Mower 918L flail mower question

[BryanM]

I am using this mower too cut a path around the woods. and I keep burning belts up. After I got the mower back I tried too turn the cutter bar and it was very hard too turn. My to be next move was too remove the cutter bar and inspect the bearings they seem to be ok. I am wondering if I am missing a piece or part.

I did go too messicks parts and found what they call a scraper but I dont see that on my very used flail mower. Does the scraper hold down long grass before the blades cut it? Does anyone have a picture of there 918L or can someone tell me how the flail more is suppose too work? I get the flailing blades but is their somethingbending the grass over before it is cutt?

 

[leonz]

Flail mower revisted:

I am using this mower too cut a path around the woods. and I keep burning belts up. After I got the mower back I tried too turn the cutter bar and it was very hard too turn. My to be next move was too remove the cutter bar and inspect the bearings they seem to be ok. I am wondering if I am missing a piece or part.

I did go to Messicks parts and found what they call a scraper but I dont see that on my very used flail mower. Does the scraper hold down long grass before the blades cut it? Does anyone have a picture of there 918L or can someone tell me how the flail mower is suppose too work? I get the flailing blades but is their somethingbending the grass over before it is cutt?

Ok a few things I /we would like to know first before I shoot my mouth off after brushing my teeth with gun powder :laughing:




?????:



1. what is your forward speed-it should be very slow to begin with.
(the slower the speed, the finer the cut, the more debris is knocked down)

a. burning up belts is a sign of overloading and or to fast forward speed while cutting.





2. what is the engine speed in relation to the proper PTO speed of 540 RPM.
a. you cannot use a flail mower with a low engine rpm and 540 rpm at the PTO and expect it to work well (not going to happen)


3. how often do you grease the ROTOR BEARINGS? You should pump 6-7 shots in each bearing before mowing as you do not want to blow out the seals on the spherical roller bearings.

a. if you are trying to spin the rotor with the pto shaft attached to the tractor and the belts under tension it will provide a very large resistance as you do not have slip clutch on the drive pulley. Your trying to rotate the rotor rather than the tractor driveline, gearbox, shaft, pulley and V belt to final Pulley and the rotor.


b. The only time you remove the rotor is if the bearings are cooked and the rollers are falling out of the bearing housings

4. If the rear roller had scraper most likely it would be there or there is a point where it can be mounted.

a. the job of the rear scraper is the shear the wet grass off the rear roller to keep it from plugging with wet clippings and in the process become larger in diameter and elevate the mower which would leave taller grass and brush.

I want you to suceed and not to fail.

 

[BryanM]

Flail mower revisted:






Ok a few things I /we would like to know first before I shoot my mouth off after brushing my teeth with gun powder :laughing:




?????:



1. what is your forward speed-it should be very slow to begin with.
(the slower the speed, the finer the cut, the more debris is knocked down)

a. burning up belts is a sign of overloading and or to fast forward speed while cutting.





2. what is the engine speed in relation to the proper PTO speed of 540 RPM.
a. you cannot use a flail mower with a low engine rpm and 540 rpm at the PTO and expect it to work well (not going to happen)


3. how often do you grease the ROTOR BEARINGS? You should pump 6-7 shots in each bearing before mowing as you do not want to blow out the seals on the spherical roller bearings.

a. if you are trying to spin the rotor with the pto shaft attached to the tractor and the belts under tension it will provide a very large resistance as you do not have slip clutch on the drive pulley. Your trying to rotate the rotor rather than the tractor driveline, gearbox, shaft, pulley and V belt to final Pulley and the rotor.


b. The only time you remove the rotor is if the bearings are cooked and the rollers are falling out of the bearing housings

4. If the rear roller had scraper most likely it would be there or there is a point where it can be mounted.

a. the job of the rear scraper is the shear the wet grass off the rear roller to keep it from plugging with wet clippings and in the process become larger in diameter and elevate the mower which would leave taller grass and brush.

I want you to suceed and not to fail.

I pulled it in 2nd gear which is about 2-3mph, Pto speed 540.
their is only grease zerks on the roller not on the cutting bar bearings.
I tried turning the cutter bar alone without any belt hooked up, so nothing should turn but the bar with the flail blades on. and that didnt turn very easy, I suspect one of the bearings are tying up or getting long grass wrapped in it.

 

[RickB]

I suspect one of the bearings are tying up or getting long grass wrapped in it.

Well there you are..

 

[leonz]

flail mower-day 2

I pulled it in 2nd gear which is about 2-3mph, Pto speed 540.
their is only grease zerks on the roller not on the cutting bar bearings.
I tried turning the cutter bar alone without any belt hooked up, so nothing should turn but the bar with the flail blades on. and that didnt turn very easy, I suspect one of the bearings are tying up or getting long grass wrapped in it.

I would also lower the speed of the tractor even further if you are still burnng belts and maintaining a high engine speed.

OK- the term is "balanced weldment rotor" not cutter bar; I bet your a coal miner arent you?
I spent a lifetime around Joy 15RU's


First; there are grease fittings under the belt guard cover hood,
and they are buried with rubber dust and grease and grass dust.


Second; The rotor bearings are not sealed their are greasee fittings for the rotor bearings.

The grease fittings may be counter sunk(to avoid breaking them with brush) in the mounting plate on the exterior pf the rotor shaft hub ON BOTH SIDES

You need to do a lot of scraping and digging as they are there to be greased.

IF and only if you do not find two of them the flail mower( most likely at the six o' ock position) someone at some time either placed the fitting mounting plates inside the mower housing-which is doubtful or they are broken off and flush with the side walls of the mower.

Otherwise you will need to remove the mower from the the three point hitch and roll it on its back to see the underside of the mower to gain light and room to dig out the sides of the mower housing to find the fittings.

HOPEFULLY the bearing housings were not installed backwards at some time.


It takes a lot of stringy debris to wad up a a balanced weldment rotor and stop it from rotating and you will see it immediately.


I want you to succeed and not fail

 

[BryanM]

flail mower-day 2




I would also lower the speed of the tractor even further if you are still burnng belts and maintaining a high engine speed.

OK- the term is "balanced weldment rotor" not cutter bar; I bet your a coal miner arent you?
I spent a lifetime around Joy 15RU's


First; there are grease fittings under the belt guard cover hood,
and they are buried with rubber dust and grease and grass dust.


Second; The rotor bearings are not sealed their are greasee fittings for the rotor bearings.

The grease fittings may be counter sunk(to avoid breaking them with brush) in the mounting plate on the exterior pf the rotor shaft hub ON BOTH SIDES

You need to do a lot of scraping and digging as they are there to be greased.

IF and only if you do not find two of them the flail mower( most likely at the six o' ock position) someone at some time either placed the fitting mounting plates inside the mower housing-which is doubtful or they are broken off and flush with the side walls of the mower.

Otherwise you will need to remove the mower from the the three point hitch and roll it on its back to see the underside of the mower to gain light and room to dig out the sides of the mower housing to find the fittings.

HOPEFULLY the bearing housings were not installed backwards at some time.


It takes a lot of stringy debris to wad up a a balanced weldment rotor and stop it from rotating and you will see it immediately.


I want you to succeed and not fail

Thanks I would like to succeed too. And sorry about my termanology of flail mower parts. and no I am not a coal miner. LOL:laughing:

But you are wrong about the grease zerks I am hold the bearings and housing in my hand. and no zerks too be found not even broken off. as far as installing them backwards I dont think that is even possible and still put the thing back together. And I see from flailmaster.com that is an option. too by those bearings sealed or with a zerk(thats a grease fitting):thumbsup:

thanks for the help! :laughing: O by the way- Newholland calls that a carrier!

 

[leonz]

Thanks I would like to succeed too. And sorry about my termanology of flail mower parts. and no I am not a coal miner. LOL:laughing:

But you are wrong about the grease zerks I am hold the bearings and housing in my hand; and no zerks too be found, not even broken off.

As far as installing them backwards I dont think that is even possible and still put the thing back together.


If the rotor shaft has no steps its possible.
If its a slip fit shaft and you have a locked bearing on the pulley side and a floating bearing on the opposite side as it is held by the end plate


And I see from flailmaster.com that is an option. too by those bearings sealed or with a zerk(thats a grease fitting):thumbsup:

I spent a lot time greasing and replacing grease zerks that were broken while I was underground.

thanks for the help! :laughing: O by the way- Newholland calls that a carrier!

It would seem then that one the grease fittings under the V-belt cover has a
drilled path to the bearing under that specific spherical roller bearing and there has to be a second hidden fitting for the other one somewhere on the outside of the open bearing.

The reason is that Spherical Bearings are either oil bath or greased bearings; not a like packed cup and cone that can be tightened up to take up wear loss of metal.


the end cover over the right side shaft is a guard and the fitting has to be either at the top or the bottom in the end mounting plate as the bearings are not in an oil bath.

How old is this flailmower?


They also need to change their description of "Carrier" to "Balanced Weldment"!

 

[RickB]

The reason is that Spherical Bearings are either oil bath or greased bearings; not a like packed cup and cone that can be tightened up to take up wear loss of metal.




How old is this flailmower?


They also need to change their description of "Carrier" to "Balanced Weldment"!

There are probably as many or more fully sealed spherical bearings in this world as the regreaseable style. OEM replacement bearings for the last Ford flail mower in our shop were of the sealed type.

I'll add that you must be pretty naive to think that all manufacturers adhere to standardized terminology, or to chastise someone for repeating a published description. For what it is worth, 918L flail mower production began in 1990.

 

[CharlieS]

New Holland USA - Tractors - Agricultural machinery - Combines, etc. go to the parts and service tab, and choose search for parts. Enter the model number (918L) in the search box and find you're production run number, and you can view the schematics if that helps.

If the blade carrier is turning hard with the belt off, then quite possibly you've got a bearing partially frozen. but may also have alot of debris bunched up around the end of the shaft close to the mower frame.

 

[leonz]

There are probably as many or more fully sealed spherical bearings in this world as the regreaseable style. OEM replacement bearings for the last Ford flail mower in our shop were of the sealed type.

I'll add that you must be pretty naive to think that all manufacturers adhere to standardized terminology, or to chastise someone for repeating a published description. For what it is worth, 918L flail mower production began in 1990.

one example
Naive [nah-eev] adjective

Having or showing unaffected simplicity of nature or abscence of artificiality




No, I was not chastising anyone, nor am I naive just fussy.

All the ball or roller bearings I ever replaced or greased on mining equipment were open unsealed high speed bearings.

 

[RickB]

one example

All the ball or roller bearings I ever replaced or greased on mining equipment were open unsealed high speed bearings.

Farm and property maintenence equipment is built to a different spec than mining equipment, I would say.

 

[leonz]

Farm and property maintenence equipment is built to a different spec than mining equipment, I would say.

True,

but I have never seen flail mower(even a small one) in
32 years without roller bearings and this one is a first.

 

[sfabern]

I am using this mower too cut a path around the woods. and I keep burning belts up. After I got the mower back I tried too turn the cutter bar and it was very hard too turn. My to be next move was too remove the cutter bar and inspect the bearings they seem to be ok. I am wondering if I am missing a piece or part.

I did go too messicks parts and found what they call a scraper but I dont see that on my very used flail mower. Does the scraper hold down long grass before the blades cut it? Does anyone have a picture of there 918L or can someone tell me how the flail more is suppose too work? I get the flailing blades but is their somethingbending the grass over before it is cutt?

I have a 918L and while I have not had belt problems and the shaft turns easily by hand, I am having trouble cutting longer (and thicker grasses). I can proceed more slowly through heavy clumps to avoid the rig and engine from loading ( I operate a Kubota 33 HP at 540 PTO rpm, and approximately 23 - 2400 engine RPM), but I still wind up with uneven cuts of the pasture grass in my 4-5 acre field, which has a variety of pasture grasses. I too see some grass being held down and not cut and mulched up by the knives. I sharpened all of them two winters ago to no avail. So now I am wondering if the 918L is good only for lawns or very light duty pasture grass (up to, say, 8-10 inches). I am also wondering if the cutting will be better with heavier knives. Can the 918L take heavier knives than the OEM knives?

 

[leonz]

I have a 918L and while I have not had belt problems and the shaft turns easily by hand, I am having trouble cutting longer (and thicker grasses). I can proceed more slowly through heavy clumps to avoid the rig and engine from loading ( I operate a Kubota 33 HP at 540 PTO rpm, and approximately 23 - 2400 engine RPM), but I still wind up with uneven cuts of the pasture grass in my 4-5 acre field, which has a variety of pasture grasses. I too see some grass being held down and not cut and mulched up by the knives. I sharpened all of them two winters ago to no avail. So now I am wondering if the 918L is good only for lawns or very light duty pasture grass (up to, say, 8-10 inches). I am also wondering if the cutting will be better with heavier knives. Can the 918L take heavier knives than the OEM knives?

===================================================================================

Hello Sfabern,

Don't lose hope my friend or be discouraged.

You may just need a new V belt, I am extremely surprised to see this mower without a flat snubber pulley or a manually adjusted belt tension pulley of some type

You have finish cut flail mower and there is no reason you cannot mow pasture with it we did it with a Ford Jubilee with a 7 foot JD290 flail mower.

My father used his first 3 foot cut towed motorized lawn genie to cut a jogging path for my mother in 12-15 foot tall pasture brush and golden rod for my mother to use rather than running along the road. He kept the path mowed for her with no problems and mowed it down to a 2 inch cutting height for her to jog on.
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What is the cutting height that you are using?

To get the maximum benefit in mowing you need to leave the cutting height at two or three inches and you can go back and cut the rooster tails that are left if any.

Ideally you should mow in a spiral to overlap and recut the material in one pass and then you will have good sod that is free of invasive plants

If you have a higher cutting height you will have less suction to lift and cut the grass and brush and slice it into smaller clippings.

You can purchase hardened side slicer knives for your flail mower and the cutting edge will stay sharper longer BUT they need to be properly sharpened if and when the time comes using a wet well grinder to maintain the very sharp edge.

==================================================================================

As you have a fine finish flail mower with three rows of knives it will take you longer to to get a 2 inch cut in tall grass and brush.


You will need to take more time when mowing. You will be very impressed with the the mowing as all the clippings will dissolve quickly.

Do not hesitate to back up over the uncut material and go forward to re cut it.


You have a flail mower that will outlast your tractor and can be used on a higher horse power tractor if you upgrade to a larger frame size.

Leonz

 

[2458n]

I was reading this post because I believe I have a old Ford 908 Flail. Stored outside in the Ohio winter so it did not mow long in year 2. Freezing water took out one end bearing. Have a couple of other flail mowers that are 7 foot models used by the local parks. What caught my Eye was the term Lawn Genie. I missed one of these at a auction in Springfield Ohio. For 250 dollars I can not believe I did not realize how useful that machine would be in the fall for leaves. First one I had ever seen. As a finish mower - mow slow or mow more often. Look at your Bush hog blade compared to your flail blade. Not even close are they.

 

[Fallon]

I have an old beat up 917 behind my L3200 HST (25ish HP PTO) & it does great in my field. Chokes a bit on 2' tall grass, but gives an OK cut on it anyway. I wouldn't use it on heavier brush, that wouldn't cut well & would tear up the mower. I've got a 5' rotary cutter I now only use for rough stuff.

My 917 has a tension pulley & everything can be turned over easily by hand when you remove the belt & PTO shaft. It still turns over by hand with the belt on, but no PTO. If it won't turn over by hand, something is bent or you have a bad bearing.

The roller on mine is non adjustable. Mine did come with parts for tail wheels, but the wheels were way toasted & I never used em. Hydraulic top link in float & adjusting height via the 3pt works well for me.