A couple of "strange" towing/tie down questions

[SammyNole]

Hello all. I have searched for these answers, but admittedly not much, because, honestly, I figure no one has really asked these questions before. I wanted some input on a couple of things that kind of randomly came up in the past few days.

Background:
I have a Kioti CK4010HST (2734 lbs) with KL4010 FEL (840 lbs), for a total weight of 3574 pounds. I live in flat Florida, so no need for loaded tires (I had them filled with water, but created too many unacceptable ruts in the yard).

I am going to be buying a 7'x20' trailer (18'+2' dovetail) with 2x-3500lb axles and dual brakes in the spring. At the same time, my father-in-law will be giving us a pretty decent Saab 9-5 that he is having a few nitpicky issues that he is tired of messing with. In researching tiedowns for the Saab, I ran across a few options that I am wandering why they would not work for CUTs. Just wanting some input on these ideas because so far I have been having trouble finding suitable tiedown spots for the Kioti (though I hope to never have to tow it!), and it would be nice to be able to use the stuff I bought to get the Saab home for more than one project.

Questions:
1) I found these "Wheel Nets" that are essentialy ratchet straps that go around the top 1/3 of the tires and ratchet to stake pockets or other suitable outside tiedown spots on the trailer. Has anyone used these to haul their CUT? Why would they not work? They have a load capacity of 3,333 lbs each, so four would give me 13,332 lbs of working load capacity.

Edit: These straps are 10' long, with a ring on one end that the loose end loops through, which would then allow it to adjust to any size tire, as long as you have enough strap to get to the ratchet/tiedown point. So the same strap could be used for both the smaller front tire and the substantially larger rear tire. The strap then goes into the ratchet, which on the ones I bought have 18" of 5/16" (I think?) chain and grab hook to secure to the trailer.



2) In the same vane, I also found these axle straps. Wrap them around the axles (in my case the rear of the tractor has been the real problem area for finding a suitable tiedown solution) and use ratchet straps or chains to secure the car or machine to the trailer. They have the same 3,333 lbs load limit, for a total capacity of 13,332 lbs.



3) While home for Christmas I found some old Ford Super Duty tow hooks hanging in my granddad's shop from a truck I had in 2000/1. For the front, I have been toying with building a tiedown plate sandwiched between the grille guard and the front frame, but have not pursued it because of the need to cut nice holes or to weld on tiedown rings. Neither are an issue for me, but I thought it would be easier to use the same plate and secure these tow hooks to the sandwiched plate and drill three holes to attach each hook. They are secured with either 12 or 14mm bolts (I forget which and haven't confirmed since I got them home). Again, I figure if these were designed by Ford engineers to tow or pull a 6-7000 truck out of a ditch that they may be capable of being a reasonably secure tiedown point.



Sorry for the long post and many questions, but I thought it would be better to try to address all three similar questions in one post rather than try to parse them out in three different threads.

Thanks in advance for any and all input!

 

[MossRoad]

I think those wheel nets are for a specific size tire. So be sure to check for that.

I don't like wrapping straps around anything. They can chafe and cut with vibration. I'd use chains/hooks at the attachment points.

Can't help you with the Ford hooks..... I'm a Chevy guy!

 

[SammyNole]

Thanks for the input. I went back and edited my original post to include this, but the straps are 10 feet long with a welded loop on one end that you run the loose end of the strap through. So it can be infinitely adjustable as long as you have enough strap to get back to the ratchet/tiedown point. And the axle straps have reinforced jacket to help with the rubbing issue, but I am with you on the chaffing issue. At the same time, I did not want to run a chain around my axle to scratch the heck out of it, either, though.

 

[Jcoon]

From a DOT inspection stand point, you have to tie down for half the weight of the machine, I would simply call the manufacturer of the tire straps and ask them if u can use them for a tractor,get it in writing from them saying you can, because In the end it all boils down to you killing someone in a accident and the insurance company’s coming back on you with your tire straps if the tractor comes off the trailer.

Since the machine is under 10,000 pounds you do not have to tie down the FEL.

 

[disney]

My quick thoughts, If the tire loop strap is loose enough to chafe, it is too loose--and if you are not towing tractor on regular basis, any 'wear' would be very minimal. related to trailer, consider 5k axles, as I dont think they will add much to the cost, but It would let you load larger tractor, more than one pallet of sod, or pavers, and likely would greatly increase resale value/demand.

 

[fried1765]

I do not have an answer for your tie down question.

I DO have a suggestion about the trailer you are planning to buy.

Your tractor at 3574 lbs., plus an estimated empty trailer weight of 3400 lbs. (I have a 20' equipment trailer) will gross out at approximately 6974 lbs.
You are planning to buy a trailer with two 3500 lb. axles, for a projected load that is only 26 lbs. under GVWR maximum?
Will you ever put any additional weight on the trailer?
Adding anything else, other than a big bag of feathers, will exceed the GVWR of your trailer.

You absolutely should buy a 10,000 lb. GVWR trailer (two 5000 lb. axles).

You should also consider getting as many "D" ring tie downs as is reasonably possible.
Stake pockets should be plentiful, and a rub rail is essential.
Spring type axles (cheaper) may be better in Florida, as torsion axle rubber will possibly deteriorate over time in the Florida heat.
Do get 16" wheels!

Unless you have a "dually" or some other heavy duty vehicle, you should strongly consider a weight distribution/sway control hitch. I find the "Equal-i-zer" brand to be the best for both of those functions.

I frequently read here of folks needing to pay hefty amounts to a dealer for tractor repair transportation.
While buying a trailer for tractor repair purposes would not be cost effective, I find that having a 20' equipment trailer, for other uses, is very convenient.
In most cases, a well kept used trailer can be resold, if necessary, for almost the same price as the original cost.

I would recommend AGAINST buying a used trailer however. Many (if not most) are in neglected/unsafe condition.

If you want to custom order a trailer I have heard that Kaufmanntrailers.com is very good company to deal with, and they will ship anywhere in the USA. My trailer is not from Kaufmann, but in the future I would likely buy from them. Kaufmann pricing seems to be excellent also.

HAPPY TRAILER 2018 HUNTING !!

 

[Egon]

Bolt on some rated industrial lifting eyes and use chain and binders.
[video]https://www.google.ca/search?q=lifting+eye+hook&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiht7LZ8rHYAhWlx4MKHTn5BOgQ_AUIESgB&biw=1024&bih=648#imgrc=z3hzxqN83jbA9M:[/video]

Straps work well as long as they are not wrapped around or able to chafe on the items they are holding down.

 

[some zilch]

those wheel nets would be fine; they are a staple of the car hauling industry. straps are made to be wrapped around things and not disintegrate at the worst times. mine have a protective fabric sleeve over most of the length of the strap that protects the actual strap while it is wrapped around something

 

[woody]

those wheel nets would be fine; they are a staple of the car hauling industry. straps are made to be wrapped around things and not disintegrate at the worst times. mine have a protective fabric sleeve over most of the length of the strap that protects the actual strap while it is wrapped around something

I took an old fire hose and made some protective sleeves to go on my straps.

 

[dodge man]

One thought. Axle straps often won稚 work on cars or trucks some times there are brake lines or something that would get crushed.

 

[dieselcrawler]

The superduty tow rings would be fine for a tractor the size of yours. Be aware, the rings you speak of have a small ID, and many chain hooks will not fit thru them, making the chain-down process more difficult in your situation. But a good idea none the less, one i will save, as I have several superdutys, one which is getting parted out! Will save thoes tow rings!

Also agree about the trailer capacity comments... gross trailer rating, vs actual load weight, you don't want to have it loaded to max every time you use it. If the normal load you intend to carry is more than 75-80% of the payload ability of the trailer, get bigger trailer. (10k gross trailer - 2500lb trailer wgt = 7500lb payload × 80% = > normal load. Arbitrary trailer weight numbers, but that's the formula I use.)

The tow vehicle plays a big part in trailer safety as well... what's pulling this new trailer?

 

[aczlan]

Straps work well as long as they are not wrapped around or able to chafe on the items they are holding down.

That's why the OP showed axle straps which have a extra layer on them to protect the part of the strap that takes the load from abrasion.

I think that the wheel straps will work well for the front, but they may not be big enough for the back.

Aaron Z

 

[RobertN]

OP, others have mentioned trailer weight; I'll mention length...

I have a similar size NH TC40D. I have had need to have both FEL and 6' rotary mower. I had to set the mower in the bed of the truck because the load would have been too long.

I measured my tractor with the loader and rotary mower, from the edge of the bucket to the end of the tail-wheel on the mower. 24'.....

It is something to consider. I hardly ever take the loader off. And, I always have something on the 3pt; mower, scraper, chipper etc.

I have my existing trailer that I got when I had a smaller Kubota B series. It was perfect then, but this New Holland is much bigger. I can't afford a bigger trailer right now, so have to make do with putting implements in the truck, or trailering them seperately in my utility trailer. Both are a pain in butt...

 

[fried1765]

OP, others have mentioned trailer weight; I'll mention length...

I have a similar size NH TC40D. I have had need to have both FEL and 6' rotary mower. I had to set the mower in the bed of the truck because the load would have been too long.

I measured my tractor with the loader and rotary mower, from the edge of the bucket to the end of the tail-wheel on the mower. 24'.....

It is something to consider. I hardly ever take the loader off. And, I always have something on the 3pt; mower, scraper, chipper etc.

I have my existing trailer that I got when I had a smaller Kubota B series. It was perfect then, but this New Holland is much bigger. I can't afford a bigger trailer right now, so have to make do with putting implements in the truck, or trailering them seperately in my utility trailer. Both are a pain in butt...

Couldn't a mower hang over the tail of the trailer a bit?
I carry my medium size TLB with the hoe extending about 2' beyond the tail of my 20' trailer, and I set my loader bucket, edge down, and curled onto the front trailer edge.
I use a clean red flag on the rear, about 4' above the hoe bucket.
I ordered my 14K trailer with 20' deck, so that I can store another vehicle ahead of it in my building, though I would have preferred a 24' trailer.
My trailer is strictly for ME,(no business use, never for hire) and is used only very occasionally.

 

[SammyNole]

I do not have an answer for your tie down question.

I DO have a suggestion about the trailer you are planning to buy.

Your tractor at 3574 lbs., plus an estimated empty trailer weight of 3400 lbs. (I have a 20' equipment trailer) will gross out at approximately 6974 lbs.
You are planning to buy a trailer with two 3500 lb. axles, for a projected load that is only 26 lbs. under GVWR maximum?
Will you ever put any additional weight on the trailer?
Adding anything else, other than a big bag of feathers, will exceed the GVWR of your trailer.

You absolutely should buy a 10,000 lb. GVWR trailer (two 5000 lb. axles).

You should also consider getting as many "D" ring tie downs as is reasonably possible.
Stake pockets should be plentiful, and a rub rail is essential.
Spring type axles (cheaper) may be better in Florida, as torsion axle rubber will possibly deteriorate over time in the Florida heat.
Do get 16" wheels!

Unless you have a "dually" or some other heavy duty vehicle, you should strongly consider a weight distribution/sway control hitch. I find the "Equal-i-zer" brand to be the best for both of those functions.

I frequently read here of folks needing to pay hefty amounts to a dealer for tractor repair transportation.
While buying a trailer for tractor repair purposes would not be cost effective, I find that having a 20' equipment trailer, for other uses, is very convenient.
In most cases, a well kept used trailer can be resold, if necessary, for almost the same price as the original cost.

I would recommend AGAINST buying a used trailer however. Many (if not most) are in neglected/unsafe condition.

If you want to custom order a trailer I have heard that Kaufmanntrailers.com is very good company to deal with, and they will ship anywhere in the USA. My trailer is not from Kaufmann, but in the future I would likely buy from them. Kaufmann pricing seems to be excellent also.

HAPPY TRAILER 2018 HUNTING !!

Thanks for the info. The trailer has an empty weight of 2200 lbs. It is not a heavy duty trailer, nor was it designed or intended to be bought as an equipment trailer. I will have 1200lbs of leeway, which will be more than enough, I think. I figure if I ever am hauling my tractor on a regular basis, I will invest in a more substantial trailer, but right now cost is as much of a concern as capability. I am mainly buying the trailer as an extended truck bed, to allow me to haul long lumber, poles, roofing material, etc. for small projects that will not fit in my truck bed. I hope I won't ever have to haul my tractor anywhere, but if I do on the odd occasion, this trailer should be sufficient.

 

[SammyNole]

The superduty tow rings would be fine for a tractor the size of yours. Be aware, the rings you speak of have a small ID, and many chain hooks will not fit thru them, making the chain-down process more difficult in your situation. But a good idea none the less, one i will save, as I have several superdutys, one which is getting parted out! Will save thoes tow rings!

Also agree about the trailer capacity comments... gross trailer rating, vs actual load weight, you don't want to have it loaded to max every time you use it. If the normal load you intend to carry is more than 75-80% of the payload ability of the trailer, get bigger trailer. (10k gross trailer - 2500lb trailer wgt = 7500lb payload × 80% = > normal load. Arbitrary trailer weight numbers, but that's the formula I use.)

The tow vehicle plays a big part in trailer safety as well... what's pulling this new trailer?

I'm not sure why I kept them, but I had a brush guard on the truck they came off. At that time, I think I had a tendency to rob anything of value from a truck when I traded it, so the tow hooks were very easy to remove and keep. 16 years later, they MAY come in handy. If I wind up using them, I will post up some pictures in the Build It Yourself section.

 

[SammyNole]

OP, others have mentioned trailer weight; I'll mention length...

I have a similar size NH TC40D. I have had need to have both FEL and 6' rotary mower. I had to set the mower in the bed of the truck because the load would have been too long.

I measured my tractor with the loader and rotary mower, from the edge of the bucket to the end of the tail-wheel on the mower. 24'.....

It is something to consider. I hardly ever take the loader off. And, I always have something on the 3pt; mower, scraper, chipper etc.

I have my existing trailer that I got when I had a smaller Kubota B series. It was perfect then, but this New Holland is much bigger. I can't afford a bigger trailer right now, so have to make do with putting implements in the truck, or trailering them seperately in my utility trailer. Both are a pain in butt...

Definitely something to consider, but again, I hope to never have to trailer this thing anywhere. If anything, it will be going to the dealer in the catastrophic situation that I can't repair something, hopefully long into the future. I certainly will not be towing it with any 3pt attachments.

 

[SammyNole]

That's why the OP showed axle straps which have a extra layer on them to protect the part of the strap that takes the load from abrasion.

I think that the wheel straps will work well for the front, but they may not be big enough for the back.

Aaron Z

Exactly, the axle straps have an extra layer of abrasion-resistant material on the outside of them, so I'm not too concerned about that situation. That's why I would prefer using the straps in conjunction with other straps or chains as well, just in case abrasion became a problem.

 

[fried1765]

Thanks for the info. The trailer has an empty weight of 2200 lbs. It is not a heavy duty trailer, nor was it designed or intended to be bought as an equipment trailer. I will have 1200lbs of leeway, which will be more than enough, I think. I figure if I ever am hauling my tractor on a regular basis, I will invest in a more substantial trailer, but right now cost is as much of a concern as capability. I am mainly buying the trailer as an extended truck bed, to allow me to haul long lumber, poles, roofing material, etc. for small projects that will not fit in my truck bed. I hope I won't ever have to haul my tractor anywhere, but if I do on the odd occasion, this trailer should be sufficient.

You will definitely enjoy having a 20' trailer!
I am surprised that the 7000 GVWR 20' trailer only weighs 2200 lbs.
I have a 16' 7000 GVWR cargo trailer (3/4" plywood deck) that weighs 2100 lbs., and it is only 16' long.

 

[SammyNole]

You will definitely enjoy having a 20' trailer!
I am surprised that the 7000 GVWR 20' trailer only weighs 2200 lbs.
I have a 16' 7000 GVWR cargo trailer (3/4" plywood deck) that weighs 2100 lbs., and it is only 16' long.

That 2200lb figure is from the dealer/mfg. It is essentially a glorified flatbed utility trailer without the upright rails, like a typical utility/landscape trailer. Pretty light duty, but I am looking for something to carry long items, plus I have a new truck with a bed cover on it that I am pretty much treating like a trunk instead if a truck bed. Trying to find a nice middle ground of a trailer that will not break the bank but will generally do everything I reasonably need it to do. In general, if I want to haul off yard debris, scrap metal, or bring in lumber, concrete, or other items that I would have just thrown in the bed of my old truck, I am going to hook up my trailer for those jobs. Again, fairly uncommon tasks so it won't be too terribly unwieldy to do it this way "I hope".