A simple three point counterweight

k0ua · Aug 4, 2011

Scotty Dive said:
James -

I looked at the spreadsheet but got a bit confused on what I needed to measure and what it actually would tell me.... All of those numbers made my head hurt...LOL

Couldn't I just adjust or purchase a shorter/longer top link to get the barrrel horizontal? Or weld a horizontal off of the two verticals that are to attach to the top link?

Well the thing to remember is the 3pt hitch is a 4 link parrallelagram (sp) so you need the measurements for the end points. and then you play (what if? games ) with the measurements so the the implement motion diagram looks good, and the right hand end piece is vertical and the bottom link low and bottom link high numbers are minimized. I agree it does take a while to figure this out. but think of the right hand line is vertical and that is how you want you ballast barrell to be when you have it lowered and when it is raised. Not leaning back or forward when you lower and raise it. You will never get it exact but you should try. were you able to figure out and measure the 7 measurements on the tractor. ? and then on the Implement, you start entering guesses on how you want to build it, and then see how the lowered and how the raised will look in the implement motion diagram.. Clear as Mud?

James K0UA

seriousfreedom · Jan 29, 2012

well you wouldn't have to worry about the steel drum rusting away would ya?

seriousfreedom · Jan 29, 2012

MossRoad said:
I made one of those many years ago. I used some 3pt hitch parts from TSC. Unfortunately, it did not weigh as much as I would have liked it to. A 55 gallon drum only holds about 1/3 of a yard of concrete. One yard of concrete weighs (approximately) 2000 to 3000 pounds, depending on the mix, of course. I was able to gab that drum when it was laying on its side and stand it up by myself. Now, I ain't that big of a guy, so I am pretty sure it was well under 1000 pounds.

that looks like a neat little tractor and sounds from what i read a stout little sucker too . never heard of power trac thanks for sharing your photos and what not

Barnone · Jan 29, 2012

smoker said:
Not much difference between my setup and a bucket truck. Pallet has rails on three sides. Max height off the ground 4'. I would think it would be safer than standing on a ladder....

smoker,
Got a photo of your pallet with rails around somewhere?
Thanks

Terryfied · Oct 22, 2012

This thread has been very helpful, glad I found it before making my counterweight. I fabricated the frame with 3/16" flat stock and 2x2 box tube. I used a trash can so I could put the lid on it when storing outside. In hind sight I wish I'd have used a 55 gal size barrel due to now having to adjust the sway bars on the tractor. I used threaded pins to bolt through the side of the barrel and lubed them up so if they break or bend I should be able to unscrew them and replace, (in theory anyway).

I also picked up a cheap receiver from Harbor Freight and mounted it off the back. The pvc pipes have a screw through them to hold shovels etc as I'll be drilling out the bottom for drainage. I used six sixty lb bags of Quick Crete and combined with the frame the overall weight should be approx 400lbs. That is what my tractor manual recommended for max weight. I might have to cut a slot in the barrel for the stabilizer bar when it's raised. Just letting the concrete harden for a few days before I try it out

thahn1608 · May 5, 2013

Old thread I know, but it hits the spot...

How do you keep the ballast from swaying and possibly damaging things and the tractor? I'm wanting to build one of these, but don't want to do break anything with my inexperience... Thanks!

k0ua · May 5, 2013

thahn1608 said:
Old thread I know, but it hits the spot...

How do you keep the ballast from swaying and possibly damaging things and the tractor? I'm wanting to build one of these, but don't want to do break anything with my inexperience... Thanks!

Your sway bars or sway turnbuckles take care of that, just like any other implement. Just tighten them up and take the sway out of the ballast barrel. Or did I not understand what you asked?

James K0UA

wjb-49 · Jun 15, 2013

k0ua said:
Here you go, let me know if you need any more. the 4x4 steel angle go all the way to the embeded drawbar and fasten in with large bolts, the 2 inch fastens to the drawbar with a long 3/4 inch all thread, and welded to the 2 inch receiver, and then rebar welded at an angle on each side to the drawbar and the side of the 2 inch reciever for side to side stabilization.

I like the design of your counterweight very much and the pics are very helpful. We are beginning fabrication of one for my Ford 340B industrial tractor this week and I plan to use a mix of rocks in the bottom 1/3 - 1/2 of the barrel and top it off with concrete. Also, we are adding a metal "loop" or hook to lift the barrel with the FEL and chain if needed. My tractor has a lift capacity of 2,040 lb. which should easily handle the counterweight. However, I read in another thread that some use chains to support the counterweight at the "operating height" to take the load off the hydraulics. The contributor of that post did not specify how and where the chains were fastened to the barrel and tractor. I thought of fastening one end of the chains to the pins on the horizontal drawbar and the other end of the chains (with a steel ring) slid over a pin in the top link holes on the tractor.

Any thoughts or opinions? Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, it is very helpful!

Reg · Jun 15, 2013

wjb-49 said:
I like the design of your counterweight very much and the pics are very helpful. We are beginning fabrication of one for my Ford 340B industrial tractor this week and I plan to use a mix of rocks in the bottom 1/3 - 1/2 of the barrel and top it off with concrete. Also, we are adding a metal "loop" or hook to lift the barrel with the FEL and chain if needed. My tractor has a lift capacity of 2,040 lb. which should easily handle the counterweight. However, I read in another thread that some use chains to support the counterweight at the "operating height" to take the load off the hydraulics. The contributor of that post did not specify how and where the chains were fastened to the barrel and tractor. I thought of fastening one end of the chains to the pins on the horizontal drawbar and the other end of the chains (with a steel ring) slid over a pin in the top link holes on the tractor.

Any thoughts or opinions? Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, it is very helpful!

Given that I regularly carry around implements weighing 2 or 3 times that (which have the advantage of being USEFUL) and the hydraulics don't pop - I don't see any point in chaining anything to take a load off the 3 pt.
Owners of fragile tractors may need to think differently however (-: