A small pole building for the PT

[BillCroasmun]

Not sure how anyone else hang headers and girts by themselves but here is my process...

1. I marked the posts where the top and bottom of the board should go.
2. Then I drove a duplex nail under the bottom line of the end post for that particular board.
3. Next I carried one end of the board up and rested it on the duplex and bungee corded it to the post.
4. Move the ladderlift the other end to where it should be
5. Check for level and secure.

If Anyone has a better one man method I'll be glad to hear as I have 6 more header boards and 14 more girts to go!

 

[SteelDust]

Not sure how anyone else hang headers and girts by themselves but here is my process...

1. I marked the posts where the top and bottom of the board should go.
2. Then I drove a duplex nail under the bottom line of the end post for that particular board.
3. Next I carried one end of the board up and rested it on the duplex and bungee corded it to the post.
4. Move the ladderlift the other end to where it should be
5. Check for level and secure.

If Anyone has a better one man method I'll be glad to hear as I have 6 more header boards and 14 more girts to go!

Here's what I've used in the past and what I'm currently using on the barn project that I'm completing 99% by myself. (My thread is probably on page 2-3, updates probably next weekend)

Take two pieces of lumber about a foot in length each, lay them on top of each other staggered 4", or so, out. Run 4 screws through the over lapping wood. The distance you stagger the boards, varies by the lumber that you are hanging. 4" for a 2x6 or 2x8, 6" or so for a 2x10 or 2x12.

Take an Irwin quick clamp (or some other quick acting bar clamp, those things are worth their weight in gold for solo projects) and clamp the "jig" mentioned above to the post, creating a pocket for one end of your board to sit in at the desired height. Set one end of the board to be hung in the pocket. Lift the other end up to the desired position on the other post and nail. Go back to where your jig is, grab the board, release the quick clamp with the other hand and let the jig fall. Nail this end of the board to the post.

It will come out dead level, and the quick clamp is easier to release than pulling a duplex nail and fussing with a bungee cord.

 

[EddieWalker]

Bill,

Do you have all your posts in the ground? I'm a firm beliver in drilling all your holes, the putting the posts in the ground loose. Withe the posts loose in the hole, fasten them together with your purlins and temporary bracing. When they are all locked into position and perfectly plumb then fill in and compact the holes.

Sometimes you'll find that a hole is not lined up right, so it's easy to just pull the post out and ajust the hole. Put the post back in and get it plumb. This works for pole barns and fences.

Eddie

 

[BillCroasmun]

Hi SteelDust, Sounds like a good method. I don't think I have any quick clamps large enough for the job. I should go out and get some though because you can never have too many clamps!

Eddie, All the post holes are dug, posts in and plumbed. I also filled them but didn't compact them. I debated on whether of not I should of loose filled them now or after all the headers, girts, etc were on. Loose filling them to me was a compromise of giving them some added stability while working alone without being too much work to make minor adjustments. At least that was my thought... time will tell.

Thanks for the posts guys, I'll take all the thoughts, ideas, suggestions, and even laughter (if I do something really goofy) that you all can offer. This website has been my number one collective resource for information on working around the home and with the tractor over the last few years and there are a lot of people out there that I have come to truly value your opinions.

 

[AchingBack]

Bill,

Do you have all your posts in the ground? I'm a firm beliver in drilling all your holes, the putting the posts in the ground loose. Withe the posts loose in the hole, fasten them together with your purlins and temporary bracing. When they are all locked into position and perfectly plumb then fill in and compact the holes.

Sometimes you'll find that a hole is not lined up right, so it's easy to just pull the post out and ajust the hole. Put the post back in and get it plumb. This works for pole barns and fences.

Eddie

Eddie, your post setting method works quite well for decks, too.

 

[EddieWalker]

I haven't built a deck in over a year, so I forgot to mention them. Thanks.

On the posts, I might not have been clear. I like to put the posts in the hole loose and then get them all lined up and plumb. I lock them together and brace them to the ground so they will not move. Then I either fill with cement if that's what I'm doing, or fill with clay and compact them. I want the posts in there solid as soon as possible, but only after I have them where I want them.

You're doing a great job of it and sometimes, it's easier to work alone and make sure it's all perfect, then to rely on others who might not have the same feelings.

Eddie

 

[mojoinco]

Looks like a good start to me.

For what it's worth, I really liked the laser level/square (in this case a Robo-something Porter-Cable on clearance) when I was working on my basement. Made setting plumb and square a lot easier. Much like the power posthole digger, I used it to set level on all my important points and put it away. No line sag (over distance), etc. Probably rent one for cheap.

I bought a refurb'ed Bostich nail gun from Tylertools (.com) -- it uses round head nails and comes with a changeable nose to allow the use of the short shank nails for joist/header hangers. Metal roof would make finishing the roof a lot easier (and reliable) -- I really didn't like shingle work! As I expect you will use shingles, watch for doing it when the sun is pretty much overhead, as you will leave footprints from mushing the rock in. If you use a bottom board on your T111, use the correct flashing (I have a house with an addition that this wasn't used on -- yuck).

Looks fun!

 

[BillCroasmun]

Well, I haven't touched anything since last Saturday. The wife convinced my stubburn butt to go see the Doc on Monday and it turns out I had Bronchitis and a sinus infection to boot. After 4 days of antibiotics I am ready to get this project moving again!

Eddie,
OK, I caught what your saying this time. I think we're on the same page. with how to start. Working alone does have several advantages. One I never have to wait on anybody but myself to get started, two I don't have to explain any changes I decide to make to anyone but me and I never argue back!

mojoinco,
Thanks. I've been using a cheap Harbor Freight laser level and I am pretty comfortable in it. Went all the way around my 24' square leveling from each corner back to the other three and it has come out OK. Then after using it to mark the header I also validated with the 4' straight level and it shows right on. Maybe I just got lucky because I've heard of a few people not trusting theirs and HF isn't known for having the highest quality stuff.

I'm going to check out Tylertools and other places for a refurbished nail gun that''s a great idea! I've planned on shingles mainly because that's all I know. I don't know anything about doing a metal roof, how it's trimmed, capped, etc.

My two decision factors would be: Which is cheaper and which is easier for a team of one? If metal wins I may be asking a lot more questions.

 

[Barryh]

So where are we at on this project so far? Hows it coming along some new pictures would be nice...

 

[BillCroasmun]

Hi Barry!
I wish I had more good things to post about this project but unfortunately life's been getting in the way every step.

A week after my last post my dad had some medical problems and spent 10 days in the CCU unit of the local hospital. He's OK now but that was my main focus timewise for a while. I've also also been working a bunch of overtime, late nights and weekend hours as well.

And on top of that I had a few unexpected financial set backs that drained the entire budget I had for this... Too bad I don't get paid for the overtime .

All that adds up to me driving down the drive everyday and looking at nothing more than a post plantation.

If I can sqeeze out enough for the T1-11 I've thought about putting up the walls and throwing some kind of temp roof up until I can get the rafters and roofing going but I should probably just wait until I can do it all at once...