Adding a 12volt outlet

[RoyJackson]

Well, finally had the time (between working 3rd shift and the crappy weather we've had, it took a while to get started) to run the wiring and install the outlet. I need to crimp the terminals, doing some wrapping with electrical tape and I'll be done.
Like Tractor Pilot, and per a dealer tech's advice, I did run the wires (in a protective sheath) to the battery. I used 14 gage wire and I hope that wasn't a mistake...guess I'll find out. The warning lamp's draw is only 10 amps, so I reckon I'll be OK...especially with a 10 amp inline fuse.
This, barring unforeseen circumstances, will be done today. Then I need to fabricate some kind of bracket to hold the lamp itself.
The outlet itself was installed in the key panel about 3" lower then the ignition key. There is clearance for the outlet...but if anyone does this installation, pull the panel first and confirm you have clearance.
I'll get pics when I'm done, but before I install the key panel and engine side panels.

 

[Tractor Pilot]

Roy,

Did you complete your 12v outlet project? I would enjoy seeing a picture of your outlet.

I just used my outlet yesterday to top off the battery to prepare for the snow storm we are getting here today in Colorado. It sure was nice to charge the battery without having to remove and reattach the battery cover & springs and work in that tight space.

Bruce

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy,

Did you complete your 12v outlet project? I would enjoy seeing a picture of your outlet.

I just used my outlet yesterday to top off the battery to prepare for the snow storm we are getting here today in Colorado. It sure was nice to charge the battery without having to remove and reattach the battery cover & springs and work in that tight space.

Bruce

Hi Bruce,
Yep...got it done one weekend a few weeks back. Unfortunately, I neglected to get the pictures I promised (of how I routed the wiring).

Works good...but one of the lower corners of the key panel broke when I was putting it back on. Not sure if I'll just make a doubler plate or replace the panel.
I routed the wiring from the battery along side the stock wiring harness and wiretieing about every 10". I did use the same type of heat resistant, protective sheathing to protect the wires. There is an inline fusible link on the hot side. All terminals were crimped as I have no soldering gun. There's a fair amount of info online for making "aircraft" quality crimps, BTW...one reason I did this is I did have a wire cutter/crimper. Heat shrink tubing and electrical tape (only if necessary) is used to protect all terminals.
Now, my mistake: I used 14 gage wire for both the hot and ground wires. I should have used 12 gage. I had bought the 14 gage then realized the fusible link I had previously purchased had 12 gage pigtails.

Well, it worked. Now I need to fab up a bracket to hold the warning flasher to the ROPS.
I used to work in fab shops and I really wish I had access to some of those tools now...and a welder.

Still working 3rd shift (hate it!), so time to do this kind of thing is limited...if you ever work offshifts, you'll know how much it can screw up your sleeping.

 

[Bigasspilot]

Cttractor,
What is the make and model of the LED strobe you used?

 

[deere36]

Roy I have used a hand held Propane charcoal lighter for soldering small gauge wire and also used heat shrink over splices, etc. A couple of years ago I was trying to solder a 10 gauge wire with a solder gun on a trailer and just could not get it hot enough, tried the charcoal lighter it worked perfect.

Larry

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy I have used a hand held Propane charcoal lighter for soldering small gauge wire and also used heat shrink over splices, etc. A couple of years ago I was trying to solder a 10 gauge wire with a solder gun on a trailer and just could not get it hot enough, tried the charcoal lighter it worked perfect.

Larry

Well, it's a done deal now...and the info I read on crimping was very helpful.
I have a propane torch (use it for sweating copper now and then) and thought about it, but some of my terminals were very close to the keyswitch harness and I didn't want to chance damaging other wiring.

During my reading about crimping, I was very surprised to find out almost all wiring in aviation usage is crimped. Figured if crimping works for a 400 MPH aircraft, it should be adequate for a 10 MPH tractor.

I do thank you for your suggestion though!

 

[grsthegreat]

Roy, did you already buy the light? I ended up going with an LED light cause i was worried that the smaller wires prewired into my cigarette lighter wouldnt handle the xenon or halogens. didn't really do much investigating on it though.

I went with the Whelen L31 super led light. it only takes 3.8 amps at full operation. Not cheap though....dang LED's anyways.

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy, did you already buy the light? I ended up going with an LED light cause i was worried that the smaller wires prewired into my cigarette lighter wouldn't handle the xenon or halogens. didn't really do much investigating on it though.

I went with the Whelen L31 super led light. it only takes 3.8 amps at full operation. Not cheap though....dang LED's anyways.

Yeah, bought the light a few months ago. There's a couple pictures of a trial fit on this thread's post #39. It's definitely noticable, day time or at night.

All I need now is a sturdy bracket to mount on the ROPS. I'm trying to scrounge up the materials needed without having to spend any money...but I may have to break down and spend a few bucks.
I've worked in a number of fabrication shops...sure wish I had the tools available now! Most were pretty small and, since it's been years since I've worked in one...don't have the contacts I once had.
BTW, that's a magnetic base warning light so I can carry it in my pick up too...

 

[grsthegreat]

Yeiks.... i sailed right past those pictures.... nice looking light. A mounting bracket should be no problem. Personally id make one with maybe 1/2" sides so as to give some added protection from the magnetic base moving.

I chose permanent mount base myself, but made a removable base plate so i can remove the entire light in summertime. There was nothing metal up high on my tractor.....

see, if you didnt live so far away i could rig you up with a base. If you cant come up with anything, shoot me over some dimensions and i can fab one up for you.

 

[RoyJackson]

Yeiks.... i sailed right past those pictures.... nice looking light. A mounting bracket should be no problem. Personally id make one with maybe 1/2" sides so as to give some added protection from the magnetic base moving.

I chose permanent mount base myself, but made a removable base plate so i can remove the entire light in summertime. There was nothing metal up high on my tractor.....

see, if you didnt live so far away i could rig you up with a base. If you cant come up with anything, shoot me over some dimensions and i can fab one up for you.

I REALLY appreciate that!!!! Thank you very very much for your very kind offer!

What I'm lookng for is an old shelving unit. One shelf with a bit of forming and a weld or two would do nicely (once I cut it down to what I need). In fact...if I use "U" bolts and a couple rubber wedges (reduce vibration), I won't even need the welding. The flanges would serve well as the sides(as you wrote). Then, a couple holes for drainage (rain, melting snow) and I'm squared away.
If I had it to do over again, I'd have gone with the permanent mount and just remove the entire bracket/lamp as a unit. Once I start fabricating, I may well modify the lamp to a permanent mount.

 

[grsthegreat]

I REALLY appreciate that!!!! Thank you very very much for your very kind offer!

What I'm lookng for is an old shelving unit. One shelf with a bit of forming and a weld or two would do nicely (once I cut it down to what I need). In fact...if I use "U" bolts and a couple rubber wedges (reduce vibration), I won't even need the welding.
If I had it to do over again, I'd have gone with the permanent mount and just remove the entire bracket/lamp as a unit. Once I start fabricating, I may well modify the lamp to a permanent mount.

i could make you a 1 piece plate with the plasma cutter out of say 12g steel and roll up a 1/2" - 1" side on all 4 sides . would only need 4 very small welds.

something like this. i have a box brake for the sides

as for mounting? maybe weld 4 bolts to bottom and use a flat plate between a set of bolts around roll bar???

 

[RoyJackson]

i could make you a 1 piece plate with the plasma cutter out of say 12g steel and roll up a 1/2" - 1" side on all 4 sides . would only need 4 very small welds.

something like this. i have a box brake for the sides

That would work nicely! The welds probably wouldn't be necessary and could act as drains.
Boy, I wish I had a box and pan brake!!!

I'll get the measurements and send them to you...also, send your address (PM or e-mail) and I'll send you the material/shipping costs.

 

[grsthegreat]

That would work nicely! The welds probably wouldn't be necessary and could act as drains.
Boy, I wish I had a box and pan brake!!!

I'll get the measurements and send them to you...also, send your address (PM or e-mail) and I'll send you the material/shipping costs.

Roy, i shot you a PM. Just get me the dimensions and i can work up a quick drawing. then i have to figure out best way to mount it to the rollcage. I bought my box brake and roller with $$$ made from scrapping copper wire a few years ago... love it.

man, looking at these pics reminds me i really need top CLEAN that shop out.

 

[cttractor]

Cttractor,
What is the make and model of the LED strobe you used?

Man, I haven't followed this thread over the last few weeks and it's just a fluke that I had some time, happened to check-in this evening, and therefore was able to catch your question.

I went with the LINZ-6s. The TIR-6s are a variation and equally bright. The TIR-3s are a little less bright, though still quite good, and somewhat cheaper. These are wide-angle, but directional LEDs and you'll need several for 360 visibility. If you want to go with one beacon with 360 degree coverage, the L-31 mentioned in this thread or the L21 high profile are good. Beware that the L22 and L23 are nowhere near as bright even though they come in the same package and lens. Look at the current draw differences -- the higher current device is brighter. To my way of thinking, I'd rather pay more one time for any product and always be happy with it than pay less and never really feel the product works well enough.

 

[grsthegreat]

Man, I haven't followed this thread over the last few weeks and it's just a fluke that I had some time, happened to check-in this evening, and therefore was able to catch your question.

I went with the LINZ-6s. The TIR-6s are a variation and equally bright. The TIR-3s are a little less bright, though still quite good, and somewhat cheaper. These are wide-angle, but directional LEDs and you'll need several for 360 visibility. If you want to go with one beacon with 360 degree coverage, the L-31 mentioned in this thread or the L21 high profile are good. Beware that the L22 and L23 are nowhere near as bright even though they come in the same package and lens. Look at the current draw differences -- the higher current device is brighter. To my way of thinking, I'd rather pay more one time for any product and always be happy with it than pay less and never really feel the product works well enough.

All i can say is the L31 is VERY bright.....

 

[cttractor]

All i can say is the L31 is VERY bright.....

It is bright, in fact, even more than the L21 -- I believe it's currently Whelens brightest 360 degree beacon. It's just that's it's more money than the L21 and I thought I'd offer him some options.

 

[grsthegreat]

It is bright, in fact, even more than the L21 -- I believe it's currently Whelens brightest 360 degree beacon. It's just that's it's more money than the L21 and I thought I'd offer him some options.

i got mine new on ebay for 1/2 of listed price. otherwise i would not have got it. They are spendy thats for sure

 

[cttractor]

i got mine new on ebay for 1/2 of listed price. otherwise i would not have got it. They are spendy thats for sure

One of the things many people don't realize is that the apparent brightness and notice ability are a function of more than just the actual amount of light radiated. A warning light is more effective and appears brighter the longer it's on and the larger the surface area of the light. A lower and narrower light of the same brightness will be much less effective. That's why school bus warning lights are 7" dia. and why traffic lights are now 10.75" in diameter -- it really makes a difference.

So, a high-profile warning light is brighter than a low-profile light. Therefore, whenever you can, it's better to buy the higher, and wider light if it will fit.

 

[grsthegreat]

One of the things many people don't realize is that the apparent brightness and notice ability are a function of more than just the actual amount of light radiated. A warning light is more effective and appears brighter the longer it's on and the larger the surface area of the light. A lower and narrower light of the same brightness will be much less effective. That's why school bus warning lights are 7" dia. and why traffic lights are now 10.75" in diameter -- it really makes a difference.

So, a high-profile warning light is brighter than a low-profile light. Therefore, whenever you can, it's better to buy the higher, and wider light if it will fit.

well not sure about that, but all i can tell you is day or night.. you cant miss this light being on. The pattern alternates thru i believe 30 different patterns to attract attention also.

 

[cttractor]

well not sure about that, but all i can tell you is day or night.. you cant miss this light being on. The pattern alternates thru i believe 30 different patterns to attract attention also.

I completely agree! These things are so bright that I use the low-power setting for snow-plowing at night so I don't blind on-coming drivers