OP
Scooby074
Super Member
Yup they cut a corner for sure in light of the instructions posted by pmhowe. Id be taking a copy of those instructions and having a chat with the dealer!
Oil & Fuel Adding a Spin on Racor filter to a BX25
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Yup they cut a corner for sure in light of the instructions posted by pmhowe. Id be taking a copy of those instructions and having a chat with the dealer!
milkman
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2001
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- Tractor
- BX2200, BCS 735
The right hand side by the flywheel on the L is the same location on the engine as the left front of the BX series since the engines set in the tractor with the flywheel in the front.
OP, thanks for the pics of the install, I have a filter like that but haven't found a place to install it. I like the way you mounted yours, I'll have to copy that.
OP, thanks for the pics of the install, I have a filter like that but haven't found a place to install it. I like the way you mounted yours, I'll have to copy that.
like2wheel
Gold Member
wondering same
OP
Scooby074
Super Member
Well thats interesting... I know I answered GA way back before the block heater talk... where did my response go?
Yes, the second filter remains. It probably doesnt have to, but I left it in case something happens to the lift pump and as a last protection for the injection pump.
GolfAddict
Veteran Member
Thanks Jason. Makes sense.
OP
Scooby074
Super Member
You dont need the hose heater. The in-block works fine and is the current part for the BX25.When installed in the proper location you have full access to the water jacket. with the element so there is excellent heat transfer. Im not sure where he got the idea that the heater HAS to be installed in the rad hose?:confused3:
We had some -20*C days recently and the tractor started without issue... actually I'd almost swear it started better in -20 with the block heater than in mid summer!!!
Nice clean installation Jason, of a well regarded filter/assy.
These yoyo temperature swings are murder for condensation, that Racor should be a big help.
If you still have issues (or just am a belt/suspenders guy like me), consider Standayne as an additive. One of the reasons I went with Stanadyne (Performance formula) is that it de-emulsifies (I think of it as coagulates) the really tiny water droplets. I believe they also have a Winter formula, if you mostly just want the water modifying version.
Diesel Fuel Additives - Stanadyne
Rgds, D.
These yoyo temperature swings are murder for condensation, that Racor should be a big help.
If you still have issues (or just am a belt/suspenders guy like me), consider Standayne as an additive. One of the reasons I went with Stanadyne (Performance formula) is that it de-emulsifies (I think of it as coagulates) the really tiny water droplets. I believe they also have a Winter formula, if you mostly just want the water modifying version.
Diesel Fuel Additives - Stanadyne
Rgds, D.
OP
Scooby074
Super Member
Dave. Only one dealer for Stanadyne in the province it looks. Ive heard good things. Most guys here run KleenFlo... because its cheap and available everywhere. Howes is too.
I remember reading a comparison that compared the big brands of additives, wish I could find it again.
I remember reading a comparison that compared the big brands of additives, wish I could find it again.
David_Kb7uns
Veteran Member
If they are talking about the D902 engine, I installed a block heater in the one on my BX2230, the D905 was used on the BX2200, that information is old and is incorrect on the hose heater being the only solution.
Part #70000-00771 is a 25mm freeze plug heater made for the D902 engine in the BX2230 & BX2250 and probably the BX2260 tractors. Goes on left side of tractor in front of the injection pump (right rear of engine.
If you would like one for the D902 used in the RTV application it is a 30mm that goes at flywheel end of the head, the part number is 70000-17552
David Kb7uns
You might be thinking of that Wear Scar test. Interesting data, from what looked like an independently done test. Sorry, don't have a copy handy.
'Dyne Performance Formula didn't place all that high, as that is a lubrication test. So, I run their Lube too. Also liked the no alcohol aspect. In the additive that is.... I'm fine with alcohol for other applications ! :drink:
Dyne additives are pretty pricey here too (Central ON). I pick mine up at D&W Diesel, upstate NY. Haven't asked, they might ship to Canada ? Looks like closest dealer to you would be Bangor ME. USA pricing is no more than half what I've seen here.
If you want to try a small bottle locally, I've seen 'Dyne at International dealers, and also one NH dealer in Canada.
I always hear good things about Howes, and I've used Kleen Flo in gas applications. I liked how 'Dyne approached the water issue.
Rgds, D.
OP
Scooby074
Super Member
Im going to look into it a bit further.. Racor fuel products are available locally.. Im sure they are a rebrand of somebodies though.
Right now, Im using PS.. I think I treated the tank of fuel before I had my gelling issue... but im not 100% positive, so im going on the assumption that I didnt. That said.. Im still not sold on the PS products. The 911 that is supposed to be a miracle worker didnt do that much, it was not until the temps rose that I thawed enough to move the tractor... But then again, the new fuel that I put in, that Im positive I treated with PS White has given me no issues.. I dont know if thats do the new filter.. treated fuel .. or a combination of both?
What kind of prices are you seeing for the Standyne products? There is a dealer in Halifax, so if I go with them, I wont have to ship.
I think were talking about the same test? Not sure though. I cant remember where I came across it to be honest.. I do remember that some products that get rave reviews, didnt do that well in the testing.
Right now, Im using PS.. I think I treated the tank of fuel before I had my gelling issue... but im not 100% positive, so im going on the assumption that I didnt. That said.. Im still not sold on the PS products. The 911 that is supposed to be a miracle worker didnt do that much, it was not until the temps rose that I thawed enough to move the tractor... But then again, the new fuel that I put in, that Im positive I treated with PS White has given me no issues.. I dont know if thats do the new filter.. treated fuel .. or a combination of both?
What kind of prices are you seeing for the Standyne products? There is a dealer in Halifax, so if I go with them, I wont have to ship.
I think were talking about the same test? Not sure though. I cant remember where I came across it to be honest.. I do remember that some products that get rave reviews, didnt do that well in the testing.
I'm paying about $20 USD for 64oz, in the USA. The one 16oz bottle I bought here was something like $14 C, so I didn't bother pricing here after that one - you may be able to do better than that.
Rgds, D.
Don87
Elite Member
I finally found it. The wear scar test. Theres a link to the PDF in the first post here:
Lubricity Additive Study Discussion - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
I'm pretty sure this was the original thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-confused-about-various-diesel-additives.html
OP
Scooby074
Super Member
That was the one. Thanks Don.
Don87
Elite Member
Anytime my friend.
I may mix my fuel with bio diseil now after seeing that test. I have heard guys talk about doing it before but never seen any data.
3v0
Platinum Member
Just found out the local Loves has biodiesel. Has me wondering if a little in the scar test was good would running it straight be better. But this say
That has me thinking it would be a bad idea in the winter. How could they sell the stuff to truckers or anyone in the winter if it causes problems at freezing ?
I've learned a little about this topic, still have lots to learn though. Suffice to say, one of the realities of ULSD is that the lubrication property of the fuel is not the same.
You'll find various opinions on how to treat ULSD (ranging all the way up to flamewars, on other forums); IMO the key things are:
1) Recognize the problem.
2) Do enough research to begin to understand what is appropriate for your vintage of diesel. As a safe place to start, good quality products like Stanadyne have endorsements from major OEM diesel engine manufacturers.
Ex. - if you live in California, and drive a 2013 diesel, the solution that works for a Manitoba farmer may have you replacing REALLY expensive emission components the next time your diesel is tested.
I think biodiesel can be a good solution, IF you have a consistent good quality source AND don't run really high % Bdiesel right out of the gate. (Biodiesel tends to clean out normal deposits in a fuel system; done too rapidly and you plug a fuel filter).
For my older 7.3, if/when Biodiesel becomes more common here I want to start out with B5 in the Summer.
For lube, some guys just run a good quality 2 stroke oil. Again, you likely won't get into too much trouble doing that on a 1970 era diesel Ag tractor; a late model Ford, Dodge, or Chev diesel p/u might be another story, esp. if you have strict emissions testing in your area.
Another popular solution that did well (from memory...) in that test is Opti Lube XPD. If I was to move from Stanadyne to anything else, that would be it.
Rgds, D.
