Adding electrical devices to tractor

   #1  

i7win7

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kubota bx2370, b2650, ford 4000
Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts).

I'll start with the high power preparations.

#1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you can buy power amplifier wiring kits (reason: high quality multi-strand wire with flexible insulation). I bought the heaviest one, 1600 watts, I think. It comes with an 80 amp fuse block. Replaced 80 amp fuse with 60 amp fuse. Winch has it's own 50 amp fuse.

#2 extra protection for high current wire. Farm stores sell spraying equipment bought chemical rated hose for it's abrasion resistance.

#3 power connectors. Farm store wanted $21 for a Superwinch power connector. Electric pallet jacks also use these connectors. At a local Hyster dealer I can buy 3 for $22. You don't have to be a rocket scientist on this one. They also sell rubber dust covers for the connectors.

#4 optional extra connectors for winch, jumper cables, future expansion needs (lights, radio ect).

#5 locate somewhere close to battery for master fuse block, small mounting hole will need to be drilled. Run wire through sprayer hose and route from battery to rear of tractor. Use cable ties to secure to factory wiring, hydraulic lines, frame, ect. The power connectors have 2 small mounting holes (#4 machine screws?). Use caution, don't drill into plastic fuel tank (thought about it on BX until I realized what the black plastic part was)

Now for time for some images:
 

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#2  
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i7win7

i7win7

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Adding electrical devices to tractor - part 2

#6 Waterproof switch box, fuse panel, switches.
#6a electrical distribution panel - maybe hardest part to locate. I found a 10 circuit fuse panel at NAPA. Like trying to buy controlled drugs - none on display have to ask "parts dealer" for one.
#6b went to outdoor camping type store for waterproof box (typically larger selection)
#6c determine electrical needs - motors are easy - rated in amps.
lights rated in watts 3 amps * 12 volts = 36 watts
4 amps * 12 volts = 48 watts
5 amps * 12 volts = 60 watts
10 amps * 12 volts = 120 watts - buy swiches and wire that can handle load.
also consider total amps for all circuits - you will need a master feed wire for fuse panel.
#6d electrical department of farm store had waterproof switches and rubber switch covers and wire.

#7 assemble fuse box, I used 2 95# Harbor Freight magnets on rear of box, mounted fuse block inside.
water can not flow uphill, drill holes in bottom for wire access.
#8 adding lights - where to mount, how to mount - up to you - leave some extra wire under fuse panel for drip loop.

Time for more photos
 

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i7win7

i7win7

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This is how I modded a B2650, did something similar on a BX2360. After buying the 10 circuit fuse block I did find 5 circuit units. Since I am only using 1/2 of it, I installed spare fuses on other side. The cable wire wrap makes mod look more professional. I my case using wire that can handle 10 amps makes light upgrades easy. replace lights, upgrade fuse.
 
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i7win7

i7win7

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Here I've added photos of my added winch wiring to a BX2370. Steps 1,2,3 in my first post provides the raw materials for this mod. I ran the red power wire thru the sprayer tubing and routed tubing from engine area to top of 3pt assembly. I used scrap aluminum stock to make a rear bracket for the power connector and connected black wire to frame. The fuse for my mod is an inline fuse in front of the battery.
 

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   #5  

slckeys

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ck4010sehc
I like this. I want to move my tow behind sprayer to my carry all and this looks better than running a wire all the way to the battery on the front.
 
  
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i7win7

i7win7

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   #7  

rv7charlie

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Hi,

I'm late to this party (just joined the forum & scanning through old threads).

As an old retired electronics tech (and homebuilt aircraft builder), I'd suggest an alternative to car stereo wire for high current circuits. Try welding cable. Much more flexible, and much more rugged insulation than the vinyl insulation on automotive stuff. Many (likely most) a/c builders these days are using welding cable instead of A/N certified aircraft wire for battery primary wiring, including to the starter. It's available via Amazon & ebay in sizes down to around 8 AWG (50 amp circuit), with bigger sizes readily available at local welding supply shops; usually by the foot. For lower current stuff, you could just use SO or SJO 2 conductor 'portable power cord' (what you find on high quality power tools). In the rough, always moving/scraping/pulling environment around a tractor, I'd expect these choices to last a lot longer. And especially with the high current stuff, a lot safer.

FWIW,

Charlie
 
   #8  

Hroller

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Missouri
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LS XG3140H
Man, this is PERFECT for what I want to do... instead of tapping into existing stuff I can run my own. Not sure why I didn't think of that in the first place.
 

BadDecisions

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Wittmann, AZ
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Ford 8N
#1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you can buy power amplifier wiring kits (reason: high quality multi-strand wire with flexible insulation). I bought the heaviest one, 1600 watts, I think. It comes with an 80 amp fuse block. Replaced 80 amp fuse with 60 amp fuse. Winch has it's own 50 amp fuse.

pay close attention to that wire. A LOT of the "cheap" wire included in kits like these are of a much lighter gauge than is printed on the jacketing, with extra thick insulation added to make it appear to be of a much heavier gauge. So, say it includes "4 gauge" wire, it will be of the same outside diameter on the insulation as proper 4 gauge, but the actual wire contained inside might be closer to 8 gauge. The connectors that they include often will fit just fine, but when you start adding proper lugs for 4 gauge wire, they will be MUCH too large to crimp down properly.

There's also a good number of these kits that use the much cheaper aluminum wire (sometimes claiming BS such as "pre-tinned" to explain the silver color) which, just like AC wiring, doesn't conduct electricity as well as copper does, so you need to go up a gauge size on it. Thus, your now 8 gauge wire is actually more like 10 gauge copper. Which is fine as long as you're not trying to push 4 gauge copper power through it, but you end up with a connection that is a pain in the backside to seal as the insulation diameter is many times larger than the terminal barrel diameter.

That said, the stuff is every bit as flexible as welding wire is, and holds up just fine in an automotive/tractor environment. I've used a bunch of it in various projects over the years, and often find it in junkyard cars where I can get it absolutely dirt cheap, usually less than $5 for 20-25 feet of it.
 
 
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