Adding Guages To your Yanmar
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Scotty Dive
Veteran Member
I read the entire thread and wonder is the adaptors needed for a 1500/1600 would be the same on my 2020? anyone know if thats true?
Scotty I imagine all of these Yanmars are the same thread pitch etc (if thats what you are referring to? ) but I could be wrong, they are 1 thread per inch different and a NPT will work at least it has for me. ymmv
Scotty Dive
Veteran Member
I am hoping.....will document my install for the next guy
Scotty Dive
Veteran Member
I posted this in another thread but wanted to share it here too:
Finally got some time to tinker on the tractor. I installed some wiring and water proof switches where the horn button was for LED lights to be installed at a later date, replaced the directional light switch - not sure why but since I was in the dash I figured I mine as well. Also installed a new ignition switch...and the gauges/gauge pod and flushed out the radiator - Thanks Ernie for the advice of leaving a hose on while it drained and the engine ran....really worked well. Put 50/50 mix back in...Will that be ok for the winters in the New England?
What a pain the #$%@ to get the behind the dash and behind the gas tank. Never did figure out how to do it so I had to be a bit of a contortionist to get the gauge pod mounted. Attemped to remove the steering wheel but gave up because none of my pullers could get a grip on the steering wheel.
I drilled a 5/8 in hole just behind the dash and installed a grommet around it and plumbed all of the gauge stuff - gauge lights, temp sender probe, voltage leads and oil pressure line. I kept the original temp sending unit in the block but installed a 30 mm adaptor in the upper radiator hose that had to be drilled and tapped to fit the temp probe. It works but takes awhile to sense temperature since the engine really needs to warm up before coolant flows. I also kept the original oil pressure sensor but t'd off of it and added the copper oil pressure line. A pretty tight fit but should be fine. When I put the gauge pod right side up and bolted it down, I used some 3M firewall puddy to seal out any moisture that might get in and down in the back of the dash. You can see it in the pictures as it looks crappy but its not like caulk where you can smooth it very well. It is a tractor so I am just looking for functional.
Was pretty pleased to see 50 psi oil pressure on start up and about 45 running.
Finally got some time to tinker on the tractor. I installed some wiring and water proof switches where the horn button was for LED lights to be installed at a later date, replaced the directional light switch - not sure why but since I was in the dash I figured I mine as well. Also installed a new ignition switch...and the gauges/gauge pod and flushed out the radiator - Thanks Ernie for the advice of leaving a hose on while it drained and the engine ran....really worked well. Put 50/50 mix back in...Will that be ok for the winters in the New England?
What a pain the #$%@ to get the behind the dash and behind the gas tank. Never did figure out how to do it so I had to be a bit of a contortionist to get the gauge pod mounted. Attemped to remove the steering wheel but gave up because none of my pullers could get a grip on the steering wheel.
I drilled a 5/8 in hole just behind the dash and installed a grommet around it and plumbed all of the gauge stuff - gauge lights, temp sender probe, voltage leads and oil pressure line. I kept the original temp sending unit in the block but installed a 30 mm adaptor in the upper radiator hose that had to be drilled and tapped to fit the temp probe. It works but takes awhile to sense temperature since the engine really needs to warm up before coolant flows. I also kept the original oil pressure sensor but t'd off of it and added the copper oil pressure line. A pretty tight fit but should be fine. When I put the gauge pod right side up and bolted it down, I used some 3M firewall puddy to seal out any moisture that might get in and down in the back of the dash. You can see it in the pictures as it looks crappy but its not like caulk where you can smooth it very well. It is a tractor so I am just looking for functional.
Was pretty pleased to see 50 psi oil pressure on start up and about 45 running.
Scotty Dive
Veteran Member
Also....Car Doc mentioned this ....the brass piping to the oil will probably not hold up to vibrations...so I used the brass to see if everything would fit. I will replace it with black pipe the next chance I get.
Nice job all around looks great Scotty! :thumbsup:
Yeah mine cracked early on it was exactly like yours and I ran 3 qts of oil out before I caught mine. Lucky I happened to see the left front tire had spots all over the inside of it and looking around the yard there was a brown streak all over everywhere yikes.
Yeah mine cracked early on it was exactly like yours and I ran 3 qts of oil out before I caught mine. Lucky I happened to see the left front tire had spots all over the inside of it and looking around the yard there was a brown streak all over everywhere yikes.
Neat 1500
Platinum Member
thats exactly why i went for electric gauges. i had that happen once with an old Holden(GM) with a mechanical oil gauge, it broke off the back of the gauge and i had hot oil squirting out from under the dash...........
Jay Roberts
New member
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- Sep 13, 2011
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- 4
- Tractor
- Yanmar 1500D
Thanks for the info. I added a temp gauge because the little 1500D was running hot very quickly. I am going to try reducing my anti-freeze mix below 30%. I hope it works.
Domush
Platinum Member
Jay Roberts said:
Have you checked your thermostat? It may not be activating. Take it out and put it in a pot of water on the stove with a meat thermometer in there with it. Heat up the water and watch for it to activate at around 160F. If it doesn't activate by 200F you have a bad thermostat.
The alternative is to run it without the thermostat and see if you temp gauge reads higher than with it installed. If it does, replace with a new thermostat. The reason for the higher temp is because the temp probe is mounted before the thermostat, so if it never activates the probe will show water temps which never enter the engine block. It is a bad design, as people tend to listen to temp gauges and forget they are essentially meaningless (show a normal temp on an overheating engine) if the thermostat never activates.
Either way these beasts are better off with gauges anyhow. Good luck.
Scotty Dive
Veteran Member
After installing me temp gauge in the upper radiator hose...I only get to 140 to 150 degrees. I bought a infrared hf temp probe and it verified that it was accurate.....so I am pretty pleased that my cooling system is working well
Jay Roberts
New member
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- Sep 13, 2011
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- Tractor
- Yanmar 1500D
I didn't know my YM1500D 4WD had a thermostat. I wasn't looking for it since it didn't have a water pump. (I wish it had a water pump at this point). Where would the thermostat be located?
My temp gauge appears to be working ok because the temp is showing that it is overheating and is exceeding 200+ degrees F. I shut it off at that point. It only takes a 3 or 4 minutes to begin to overheat. A funny thing I noticed as I test drove after I had flushed the coolant system. The temp begins dropping slightly (20 or 30 degrees) as I drove up the hill next to my barn.
You are right about these things being beasts. Mine has been a tough little beast until now. It has about 700 hours run time and all I have replaced was tires other than normal maintenance.
Thanks for the info. By the way I bought mine on the grey market about 7 years ago.
284 International
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- International Harvester 284
I wonder if the cooling off you mentioned had to do with there being air in the thermo-siphon system, and tilting the tractor as it went up the hill "burped" the system of air.
One thing that seems to help the non-water pump tractors is running more water than usual in the mixture (around 25% to 30% coolant and 70% to 75% water) with a surfactant like Water-wetter as well. It helped my Kubota B6000.
It's also vital to make sure the radiator is clean inside. If you needed to flush it, it probably ought to be rodded out by a radiator shop to clear any occluded passages.
Jay Roberts
New member
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- Yanmar 1500D
The burping theory makes sense. I'll park it on the hill and check to see if the coolant level changed. Wouldn't this indicate air in the system?
The radiator is new so I feel pretty certain it is clear. I am going to try the 30% mix first but I will try the water-wetter too. I appreciate that you shared your experiences. Thanks
284 International
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- International Harvester 284
It indicates air in the system, but not necessarily why. It is possibly because of an incomplete fill, or because of a leak.
The "running hot very quickly" description is worrisome to me. If properly maintained, the machine should be able to run virtually indefinitely at its rated power and not overheat. It certainly shouldn't overheat just driving around. Make sure your fan shroud fits, the fan blades are in good shape, there is no chaff or things blocking air flow through the radiator, and so forth.
The "running hot very quickly" description is worrisome to me. If properly maintained, the machine should be able to run virtually indefinitely at its rated power and not overheat. It certainly shouldn't overheat just driving around. Make sure your fan shroud fits, the fan blades are in good shape, there is no chaff or things blocking air flow through the radiator, and so forth.
Domush
Platinum Member
From what I can find, you are right. :ashamed: It doesn't have a water pump or a thermostat. I'm a bit puzzled as to how it moves the water through the radiator at all without a means to pump it.
I did, in my travels find Hoye makes a water pump addon kit for your tractor, though.
Sorry for confusing you. I had no idea anything could have a radiator without a water pump to drive it. If anyone knows how this tractor moves the coolant, I'd be grateful to learn. Seems like a car driving without an engine. :confused2:
Jay Roberts
New member
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- Sep 13, 2011
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- Tractor
- Yanmar 1500D
Already checked the items you suggested. By the way I make it a habit to clean the radiator screen and radiator after each use. I loaned my tractor to my son-in-law and I believe he did something accidental to my machine. That is when I started having all this trouble with overheating. I'll let you know how it all works out. I'm going to remove the radiator again and test it for leaks with 5 PSI pressure. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is OK. I have more investigation planned this weekend.
Thanks
Jay
Domush
Platinum Member
When you have the radiator off, try hooking a garden hose up to the inlet of the engine to see if the water is even able to circulate. Then move the hose to the outlet and see if you can dislodge anything which may be stuffing up a port.
If the radiator is new, it stands to reason the issue is inside the engine passageways. If a garden hose doesn't have enough pressure to push out a clog, you can always jam an air nossle into the outlet port for some high pressure passage cleaning power. Just try to keep it under 1000PSI or a head gasket may be in your future
If the radiator is new, it stands to reason the issue is inside the engine passageways. If a garden hose doesn't have enough pressure to push out a clog, you can always jam an air nossle into the outlet port for some high pressure passage cleaning power. Just try to keep it under 1000PSI or a head gasket may be in your future
