Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520

[jimgerken]

The stock DSCV is visible here. Behind it, sandwiched between the DSCV and the transaxle is the "block" which allows tapping into the hydraulic flow. It is easiest if you get the block out of the tractor for the simple mods that must be done to it. To remove the block, two M8x50 hex socket head cap screws need to be removed. Unfortunately one of the loader hard line fitting banjo bolts is obstructing access to the lower cap screw. I remove the banjo bolt, and then remove the two cap screws ( I am pointing at them in this photo).

 

[jimgerken]

OK, then slide the block out while pulling gently on the DSCV to gain clearance. Take the block out the back of the tractor direction. It's an oily mess, but luckily no real quantity of oil comes out of the now-open transmission. Here's the block.

 

[jimgerken]

This next pic shows the block in my hand, upside down. The two open ports visible are normally facing down. I have uncapped them. They are the Supply and Return lines attaching points. Threads and fitting type will be verified today and data posted soon.

 

[jimgerken]

A set screw, John Deere part number PT13744, must be threaded into the block, inside the "front facing" port.

 

[jimgerken]

Here's the setscrew being tightened inside. You can actually see it thread past the port. After this, the port plug is reinstalled. And then you are ready for fittings, which I have not received yet. Will show them in a day or so. Over and out........

 

[jimgerken]

Before I forget to do it, the torque specs I found and use are:
Banjo bolt 150 inch pounds (8 mm hex wrench).
M8x50 cap screw holding DSCV on, 17-22 foot pounds (22 mm socket).

 

[3RRL]

Great mod to the tractor. An improvement making it 10x easier to use and manipulate your implements and also hook ups. Super sano job too, I might add. It really looks great so far. Just wait 'till you start using the top 'n tilt. You won't believe how you ever got a long without it.

 

[jimgerken]

!!! Could it REALLY take all this stuff to get the job done ??? Actually, some of it is in a drawer yet, not in the picture.

 

[jimgerken]

So, fittings aplenty, I tackle the "block". First problem, I can't rotate one fitting if the other is installed. After studying it for a while, I decide that it is not worth another trip to the hyd store, so I ground off the one fitting just a bit, grinding just past the lead-in chamfer, halfway around. Now it swings just fine. So I proceed.

 

[jimgerken]

So here is both the fittings and a 45 degree fitting with swivel attached. Note, the thread in the "block" is SAE 6. The SAE fitting allows you to position the direction wherever you wish before tightening the jamb nut.

And the hoses get assembled. In my case, 36 inch hoses worked out well. 33 inches would have been ok too. My hoses are 1/4" NPT male, so I convert to that on both ends with fittings.