Advice needed for road travel while pulling a trailer

[joshuabardwell]

I was thinking of stopping at the top of the hill and switching to 4X4 for the hill only.

So, two things. First, I think it still matters even if you're going straight, because the wheels are not perfectly synced, so there is still some binding in the diff between the front and rear axles. Second, given that you'll have the tongue weight of the trailer pressing down on the rear of the tractor, and that you'll be on pavement, my gut tells me that traction isn't going to be an issue. Either you'll have the power to get up the hill or you won't, the braking to stop or you won't, but whether you're pulling or stopping with four wheels or two won't really matter.

 

[kiotiken]

So, two things. First, I think it still matters even if you're going straight, because the wheels are not perfectly synced, so there is still some binding in the diff between the front and rear axles. Second, given that you'll have the tongue weight of the trailer pressing down on the rear of the tractor, and that you'll be on pavement, my gut tells me that traction isn't going to be an issue. Either you'll have the power to get up the hill or you won't, the braking to stop or you won't, but whether you're pulling or stopping with four wheels or two won't really matter.

You're right, what worries me a little is how powerful the brakes really are on a tractor. I think everybody has forgotten the parking brake once or twice and you can still move the tractor. I agree with you that the tractor will have all the traction in the world on a paved road. Will it have the braking power to stop that much weight down the hill is the big question.

Can relying on the HST to keep speed down damage the HST? Should I drop down to mid or low range to go down the hill and at what point to I start to put to much pressure on the HST?

 

[joshuabardwell]

Can relying on the HST to keep speed down damage the HST? Should I drop down to mid or low range to go down the hill and at what point to I start to put to much pressure on the HST?

I'm not any sort of expert on transmissions, but it doesn't seem to me like there should be any problem with using the transmission for "engine braking" as it were. Mid or low range would definitely be a good idea, since the alternative would be that the motor would get overloaded, bog down, and the tractor would begin to roll--analogous to if you were going up hill and lost power and slowed down.

 

[MotorSeven]

Don't use 4x4 on pavement. Will mess up the differential. Slippery surfaces only.

Why not use the van and take several trips? Or rent a truck for a half day? I'd consider it just to avoid the hour plus drive on the tractor.

Jeeze if that's the case my dif would have exploded a long time ago. A short run on pavement in 4x4 won't hurt anything except your tires. He is talking about going down hill and using it for equal(all 4 wheels) engine braking not just rear wheel braking which can and will get you into trouble quick. His trailer will weigh about as much as the tractor and if he takes it slow in low range he will be fine on dry pavement. Sudden stops, wet surface(s) etc are to be avoided...other than that ....Charlie Mike.

 

[MotorSeven]

Oh, and low range climbing a hill with a load too...4x4 not needed on pavement.

 

[kiotiken]

Well... I stopped by again and took another look what was there so I could plan the move on Saturday. Wow, there's at least 3 times as much granite as I thought. I'm going to guess 7000#-8000# of it if 18lbs per sq foot for 1.25" slab is correct. The trailer only has two 3500# axles, so I'm going to max out between 5000# - 6000#. Unfortunately, the guy won't help with his forklift, so even if I had a truck, I'd still have to bring the tractor to load and then drive home to unload. It's going to take 2 loads and each load is two trips of 1.25 hrs making it at least 5 hours assuming I can drive at my tractors max travel speed, as there's not much chance of that happening, especially with a load. So here's my next crazy idea. I'm thinking of loading the trailer to max cap., around 5000#, then loading the rest, 2000#-2500# onto my pallet forks (and strapping there of course) and carrying the whole thing in one trip. I'd have the trailer for ballast, but the whole rig would start to get REALLY heavy. I'll guess 7000# for the tractor with loaded tires, bucket and forks, 2000# for the trailer and 7500# of granite split between the loader and the trailer. Can I stop 16500# even on flat ground? Will I break the transmission, front axle or something else? Is that abuse of the tractor or something a tractor is meant to do?

 

[wcampbell47]

Rent, beg, buy, borrow a heavy duty 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck. You will live to tell the tale. Attach something on the rear of the tractor for ballast. Double check the GWR of the trailer and make sure the brakes work.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Rent, beg, buy, borrow a heavy duty 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck. You will live to tell the tale.

Seriously, this.

 

[aczlan]

Might be able to rent a Uhaul truck/van for cheapish. Those are usually a 1 ton vehicle and are rated to tow 6k# or more, just need brakes hooked up.

Aaron Z

 

[MotorSeven]

Rent, beg, buy, borrow a heavy duty 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck. You will live to tell the tale. Attach something on the rear of the tractor for ballast. Double check the GWR of the trailer and make sure the brakes work.

I agree, your estimate of weight could be still too conservative and this could be too much for the current equipment. Check with your tractor dealer and see if he has a truck/trailer you can "rent". Sounds like you are getting $10K worth of granite for free, so a couple hundred for a truck/trailer is a no brainer.