Advise on new metal barn

[Foozle]

I'm planning to build a metal barn. Will likely use a contractor for this as much too ambitious for myself. I had a few questions from the experienced builders/users of barns out there as this is my first foray into building such a structure. I'm attaching a rough plan as to layout and can attach a more formal design once the contractor gives me. I'm planning two wings of the barn for tractors and equipment (30' x 30' for each), one drive through area for truck/boat combo (48' x 22'), wood/metal shop and hobby area (48' x 38' for both combined). I had a few basic questions/comments, meanwhile.

1. Builder says they plan to use 26 gauge steel (Panel-Loc Plus). Was looking to see if anyone had experience with this type and whether was good quality,etc.
2. They are suggesting either 10 foot doors or 12 foot doors, which would make the interior ceilings 12 feet or 14 feet. My largest tractor is only 8 feet high, but am wondering if I should go the extra height just in case or whether might be overkill. 10 foot doors gives me 12 feet ceiling, which seems sufficient for a wood shop, but again am wondering if people have thoughts.
3. Builder plans to have 4" concrete flooring. Am wondering if this is standard and are there other considerations as to flooring.
4. Any recommendations on door types? I'm looking and standard panel overhead doors versus a roll-up type.
5. Happy to hear any other general suggestions/things to keep in mind.

Thanks!

 

[paulharvey]

26 gauge metal is standard in commercial and industrial buildings. It's stronger than 29 gauge by a lot, and the up charge for 24 GA isn't normally justified. 4" concrete is very normal, but if your driving on it, I would rather 5 or 6". Concrete is all about the material under it, so with a building this size/expense, I would hire a Geotechnical company to pop a couple densities in the pad before pouring (required by building department many places); cost ~$200 to get a proctor, and $50/density test, with a normal minimum of 4.

Are you sheeting the interior walls? How about insulating. Power? Water? Sewer?

 

[bigtiller]

I have had 6 garages in my lifetime and out grew everyone on them. So,,, don't build it for what you need today, built it bigger so you can use it in the future. Murphy's Law applies to garage doors also. I put in an 8 ft tall one and a year later it was too short. My BIL put in a 10 ft tall one and 2 years later his new camper won't fit in.

 

[riptides]

Insulate well so as to avoid moisture and condensation.

 

[KennyG]

Around here 26 gauge is considered the premium option. Most homeowner buildings use 29. 26 is more dent resistant but there isn't a difference in longevity. Both will last forever if the coating is maintained and both will rust though in a few years if the coating is damaged.

One door option is 11 foot tall doors on a 12 foot building. That's what I have. An 11 foot door will admit most camping trailers but a lot of them won't go in a 10 foot door. Looks like you have some very specific ideas on the size and spaces but the more you subdivide the interior, the less future flexibility you have.

 

[tony Cecil]

You should get the highest door opening you can afford….14 ft would`t be too high….and further fifty by seventy feet would get cramped as you need width to park different implements , and other awkwardly sized things …I`v had mine for thirty years, and had to replace the roof a couple of years ago---cost almost eight thousand, but the rest of it is in pretty good condition….I also purchased a shipping container, and that is the very best purchase I ever made…It sits in there and is a great safe place to store easily stolen things….You can imagine that you yourself may want to do the same some day---so make it large enough now Tony

 

[whistlepig]

As the height of your trusses goes up so does the price. I would agree buy as high as you can afford. I have had a 4" floor and a 6" floor barn built. I'll not do a 4" floor again. As far as doors I've tried a few. Overhead brand doors are well worth the price.

 

[boggen]

with such a large barn, and 4 distinct areas, i am having a hard time with the T shape. with as much equipment, i am hard press, to think you are coming up short on land. and driveway space.

i would think a single large rectangle building would provide you with better setup.



multi configurations of "drive through" like doors. (door on each side) could be had.

above is just a quick generic drawing, might be better off including both tractors and the truck/boat setup running side by side, and then your 2 shop areas off to one side. giving you much more freedom to pull air compress lines out, to various tools. if ya put all 4 garage areas per say together, would allow for larger size projects to be had as well. and if needed some area for "parties" or what not. to finding some extra room to store a utv, atv, snowmobile, or what ever little tool / implement / equipment comes along the lines.

at moment that T shape just seems like everything is to far apart from one another, and trying to keep stuff together say oils, fuels, etc... would be a bloody nightmare, not to mention find places for storage, were you might want certain things together.

there be reasons why various auto shops and like have doors side by side, and drive through like setups say quick lube. and then off on the sides having mini shops and like. it brings everything of like thing together. vs scattered.

the T areas also leaves some large areas (arm pit areas if you will) for a driveway, that you will never be able to place anything, the slightest little hickup were doors open. and it causes issues with everything else.

 

[wmonroe]

I went with 16' side walls in my shop for two reasons: first I wanted a 14' door so I could pull anything inside, second I wanted to build a loft storage area to free up floor space. I did 6" concrete and definitely recommend it over 4". The only thing I would change is to do a 16' wide door instead of 12', not sure what I was thinking but a 16'er would have made backing/moving equipment in and out easier. I've attached a picture of my loft with my air compressor on its way up there, there aren't any shelves built yet but they are coming. The area underneath is getting a workbench, bolt/hardware storage bin, toolbox, welding table, etc.

 

[bspeedy]

I am quite near you in Easley SC. From the size of your barn (app 4000 sq feet from my quick math and your numbers), I agree with the others who suggest a different layout. A 48 x 84 would give you approximately the same square footage, allow you to park most trailers and trucks hooked up, and give you great versatility on using and organizing the space. This would give seven 12-foot bays. You could put a door on 6 of the seven with the seventh being a workshop area. Mine is 40x72 with five 12x12 doors and it works great for my hobby fab / equipment repair shop as well as equipment / trailer / camper storage. I consider 12x12 doors a minimum size. I also look at the barns built with one door and wonder how the owner stores multiple trailers or pieces of equipment in them without moving EVERYTHING out to get access to the item(s) in the back.







I'm planning two wings of the barn for tractors and equipment (30' x 30' for each), one drive through area for truck/boat combo (48' x 22'), wood/metal shop and hobby area (48' x 38' for both combined). I had a few basic questions/comments, meanwhile.