Advise on new metal barn

[lostcreekranch]

You may want to look at Barmaster or MD for steel barn. Sticker shock is bad but may be cheaper in the end. No cribbing or fire problems. Plan on insulation no matter what it gets hot down south. Good Luck Scott

All our ranch buildings are Barnmaster and are high quality. Our local Barnmaster franchisee, Tri-County Barns, builds quality buildings and can turnkey everything including concrete, utilities, etc. Yeah, a bit more expensive but, we believe worth it.

We have a 40' x 100' raised center aisle barn with 1300 sq. ft. quarters that we lived in before building house. This building also has 15' lean to roof over entire 100' length on both sides and 14' doors on both ends. We have a 40' x 85' pavilion beside the big barn with roof only and 16' eaves. Barn and pavilion are on one large slab. Tractors and implements parked under pavilion and the 15' roofed areas

Also 16' x 40' workshop and 16' x 100' stable with 4 stalls, 2 tack rooms and 12' covered turnouts.

We can highly recommend Barnmaster buildings. But, you need to check out your local Barnmaster franchisee. Ours is a good one.

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[Foozle]

Attaching a couple pics with the construction in progress. I'm getting ready to have power company come out. I'll be having them put in a transformer that will feed the barn as well as a 5500 sq foot house. Any reason to consider more than 200 amp service for the barn or the house?

Thanks

 

[EddieWalker]

Interesting roof. How far are the trusses spaced and what size lumber are you using for the purlins between the trusses? Did they just nail the purlins to the trusses into the ends of the purlins?

Eddie

 

[boggen]

a stick welder, electric furnace or electrical heater, possibly eletrical water heater, and overall amount of lights, then some extra loads from say a central vacuum system, for wood working shop. do not forget the extra fridge / freezer that may be in shed/barn to hold some stuff.

as long as house is on its own 200amp service, and barn/shed on its own 200 amp service... most likely no problem.
on other hand, if you were upgrading say house 200amp service, and then running wires from house to shed... then that may be a problem. a/c, dryer, washer, stove, etc... etc... it could add up.

make yourself a list, of watts/amps/volts of stuff spreed sheet style or like. and figure out what your max possibly usage may come up to be.

black outs = no power
brown outs = you have power, but not enough of it. this can damage a bunch of eletronic stuff (computers, tv's, cellphones if plugged into wall, etc...)
line surges = static in the power, say a/c or other large suddenly turns on, and lights dim/flicker some. could be in idea a brown out.

there is point of not having enough. and size of shed and what you want, and if house was also being powered from same 200amp panel for everything you may get into trouble. if ya had 2 200 amps 1 for house and 1 shed, no big deal most likely. but *shrugs* start making yourself a list of what could possibly be on at same time.

 

[WM75Guy]

We put in a 400 amp service to our house, 225 for the house and 175 ran to the stables. Coop charges $20 meter fee, saved me $20 a month by not running separate meters. Shop is just now getting it's own 200 amp service.

 

[Foozle]

The trusses are spaced 10 feet apart. Lumber size for purlins between trusses is 2x6. And I believe they nailed the purlins into the joist hangers on the trusses. Not sure I can have them change anything at this point, but does any of this cause an issue?

Thanks

 

[EddieWalker]

I don't know if it's a problem or not. I wouldn't have gone that far with a 2x6. Joist hangers help, but ten feet seems to be pushing it for me. I was thinking of doing something similar, but was hesitant at 8 feet. I'll probably put my purlins on top of the trusses just to make sure.

Thanks
Eddie

 

[Foozle]

I talked to my builder. He is from Michigan originally and said up there because of the snow potential, they do 8 feet between trusses. He said in SC 10 feet was sufficient. Not sure if that is accurate, but I'm just passing along. They require inspections where I am in SC, so I can runy by the inspector when he shows up as well. Had the concrete poured over the weekend and am attaching a photo. They cut the concrete every 10 feet and unfortunately a hairline crack already appeared in one of the sections. I have a question into the builder on that as it seems unusual, even if only on one small area of the pour. They also appeared to rush at the end as when they cut the concrete it didn't appear that the sealer was fully hardened, so there ended up being a lot of concrete dust infused into the sealer. I may ask them to polish it out and reseal, but not sure they will do as it might be quite a bit of effort.

 

[BAP]

I don't see any diagonal bracing between the post and plate and trusses in your pictures. Also, none in the trusses themselves, How do they keep the build from racking and twisting in heavy wind?

 

[EddieWalker]

The spacing of the trusses isn't that big of a deal, it's the size of the purlins and how they are attached that makes me nervous. I don't know if it's wrong, it's just not how I would do it. I would really appreciate what your inspector says, especially how the purlins are attached between the trusses with nails into the end grain.

BAP,

The metal sheething on pole barns gives it the sheer strength for racking. The posts in the ground also add a lot of strength to the building. Once the meal all goes on, racking wont be a problem.

Eddie