Ag or Industrial Tires

[N80]

You could always let your life partner stand on the back for extra weight.

Nah, at 105 pounds my "partner" wouldn't add much with the exception of a running commentary on how I don't know what I'm doing and pointing out 50 ways in which I could do it better if I had half a brain, which having known me for over 20 years should be common knowledge that I did not, nor ever claimed to have, more than half a brain.

That's why I typically do my ridiculous tractor projects without the assistance of my "partner." That extra 105 pounds just aint worth it.

 

[machmeter62]

GENTLEMEN: Here is my suggestion only? It would be nice if a tractor or tire manufacturer, would produce a video to solve many of the decisions a new tractor buyer would have, on the purchase of his/her tractor regarding tires. Maybe these are already available, and dealers should have them?? This would narrow the choice for tire selection?

I may get some rebuttal, but the traction issue should affect most CUTs the same; but maybe not because of the different weight issue? The tests should also include loader/ no loader...4x4/ 4x2...maybe additional tire weight and etc. also? I'm not implying a test for each tractor!

Have the tests done in wet/dry--snow/ice--mud/soft soil/ hard surface; with all the tests being performed on adverse terrain, and other weather/soil conditions that may apply too!

Also include a list of the advantages/disadvantages of each including strength and weaknesses of the tire casings for abrasions, thorn resistance, and etc. too.

I know a percentage of new buyers here have been disappointed, and changed tires after purchase.

These tests could also provide a safety issue for the new owners, and maybe reduce future accidents? I think the cost of doing these tests would be out weighed by safety and owner satisfaction?

 

[N80]

I think that is a good idea but I think there are too many variables. One person says his R4s work great in snow but one dealer says they clog up with snow? Who is right? Both probably. Even for someone with little snow experience of any type, I know that snow is different depending on conditions. Wet, powder, packed, iced over, etc etc. All that is just to point out that a video would have to cover a lot of variables.

One thing I have noticed is that the vast majority of product shots by the manufacturers show the tractors with R4s on them. Why? My suspicion is that its a 'looks' thing. Someone thinks the tractors look better with R4s. And I think a certain number of buyers buy into it. And, most dealers charge extra for them.

 

[daTeacha]

I agree. The R4s look like the toy trucks you had as a kid -- all big and tough looking. For lack of any other standard to judge, a lot of CUT buyers go for them, and like you said, dealers like to sell them due to the higher profit.

Regarding traction, consider that it comes from two sources -- ( Now is about time for Patrick to get into this one ) -- One is the friction between the outer surface of the tire and the medium on which it is being driven. Turfs provide a lot of surface and are very good for traction on many surfaces. The second source of traction comes from the tires sinking into the material in question and then needing to displace the material or move the tractor forward as the tire revolves. This is where R1s excel, as typified by a heavy tractor sinking partially into the soil as it pulls a plow or other heavy implement.

R1's are good on snow IF the snow is of the right consistency to pack and resist shearing as the tire turns. If the snow is light and powdery or overcoating a layer of ice so the snow itself comes apart as the tire turns, you have a problem.

Turfs would be superior to R1s on ice unless the ice surface was so smooth that there were no small ridges for the tire to deform around OR the tire compound had a high glass transition temperature causing it to be very hard at low temperatures. If the rubber stays soft and the pressures are not too high, the tire will deform around the tiny irregularities in the ice surface and work pretty well, at least better than the R1 since there is more tire to ice contact.

R4s as often stated, are a compromise, better in some situations and worse in others. As has also been stated, traction issues are only partly due to the tire. The stuff on which you drive has a huge impact on whether you move or not. R2s (rice tires) are a great example. They work wonderfully in the terrain for which they are designed -- rice paddies and similar very wet environments that are only marginally thicker than the Mississippi River -- but are not much use in other places.

So, when you need to make the choice, analyze your wallet, your ground, your winters and your uses. Pick the one which provides the best traction some of the time or sufficient traction most of the time, or whatever your priorities lead you to. Or buy 3 (or 4 if you like R2s) sets of tires and rims plus chains, wheel weights, Rimgard by the barrel, and you're all set for what nature throws at you.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I may be a little late here but the R1's are the only way I would go. I put about 125 hours a year on my tractor and had the same choice to make. I do mow with my 28HP 4 wheel drive tractor and have R1's all around with no real problems. Of course if you turn sharp they will scalp the yard. I spend about 50% of my time doing chores in the woods with my tractor like logging, 25% doing the mowing, and 25% doing snow removal. My neighbor across the street has a John Deere that is 4x4 and about 35-40 hp and when the snow is over 5" deep he calls me to do the snow removal. His R4's load up and he cant steer even with a scoop of snow in the FEL for weight.

Of course the best of both worlds would be R1's for the real work and Turfs for the summer work like mowing.

Chris

 

[machmeter62]

Another observation in the tire debate, is the weight of the tractor. Industrial full size TLB weigh > 16,000#, or about 4000#/ tire, and 4x the total weight; which is > than many of the CUTs weight period! These may have < than 1000#/ tire for traction?

I have never seen an industrial TLB with R-1 type tires, but maybe required and exist for certain applications? It would seem to me, the weight of the tractor and power would break off the lugs of R-1 tires?

I also agree with the looks of tires as a selling factor; one needs to look no further than the new generation of cars and trucks for that selling appearance of "bigger, bolder, and wider?"

 

[N80]

I also think R1s would tear up an industrial work/construction site pretty badly too especially with a lot of back and forth loader work.

 

[Lanse]

Get Ags. I got industrials on my B3030 and wish i had'nt

 

[Diamondpilot]

Get Ags. I got industrials on my B3030 and wish i had'nt

Thats what most in my area say also. We get a lot of snow and the R1's are great. Like I said my neighbor has a 35-40HP John Deere 4x4 with a loader and I do his drive when its above 5". I have a smaller tractor and less Hp but can go through 2-3 deep drifts, his struggles with the R4's in 5" or better.

Chris

 

[johnk]

I have ags on mine and I am glad I do. I pull a brush hog and Decent grass and they only leave marks if I do a sharrp turn or it's muddy and i shouldn't be cutting anyways. I have Ags for a 3830 on my 3130 and i look at them as floatation ags. For me they serve the purpose of getting my jobs done. I think weight is the key as to what you are doing. You can " Float them" or weight them down and have them dig....