Air Tools

[Bird]

I used a Paslode air framing nailer when we were building my brother's house. It was a fine piece of equipment but I've never owned one myself. I used to have an 18 gauge brad nailer that was certainly handy, but I sold it and now have the dual purpose one; 18 gauge brads or staples.

my impression was the hammer actually tightens the wood closer while driving the nail in - the air nailer just zips the nail in and the connection is not as strong.
My opinion only

My opinion is just the opposite (and of course my opinion not worth any more than yours ). But I think you have a better connection with the air nailer because hammering on the work jars things loose. Of course you do want the two pieces of wood to be tight together when you hit it with the nail gun. Just for the fun of it and to see how strong it would be, I actually built a dog house using nothing but that 18 gauge brad nailer to hold everything together. I've forgotten the exact dimensions, but it was big enough for a chow mix dog. We used it a year or so and I gave it away after the dog was killed.

 

[MikePA]

I used a Paslode air framing nailer when we were building my brother's house. It was a fine piece of equipment but I've never owned one myself.

I have the Paslode cordless framing nailer and the Paslode cordless finish nailer. A group of my co-workers and I did some finish work on a Habitat For Humanity house this past summer and it was great having the benefit of a finish nailer without the need for a compressor and hoses.

I agree with many of the others, lots of around the garage and shop tasks wouldn't get done without a compressor and an impact gun. Before I bought them, I didn't change the blades on my mower until it was absolutely necessary. Now I change them every spring. No breaker bar needed, no jamming a piece of wood in the deck to keep the blades from turning.

 

[EddieWalker]

...my impression was the hammer actually tightens the wood closer while driving the nail in - the air nailer just zips the nail in and the connection is not as strong.
My opinion only

I don't know the numbers, but with the very heaviest hammer you can swing is as tight as you can get a nail into a piece of wood. While hitting that nail, the other piece of wood will push away from the impact of the nail. When the nail is hammered all the way in, it will tighten up both pieces to a level based on how hard you hit it.

With a nail gun, that nail is sent through both boards with thousands of pounds of preasure. It is so fast and powerful that it pulls them together allot tighter than just hammering them.

If you get a chance, hammer take two some scrap 2x4's and nail them together with your hammer, then do the same with a nail gun shooting the same sized nails. You will have no doubts as to which does a better job.

Even better is when toe nailing boards together. With a hammer, the hardest part is keeping every thing lined up. With a nail gun, you just squeeze the trigger and it's done. It's also very tight and in the exact location it's supposed to be.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[Bird]

Eddie, you explained, much better than I did, just what I was thinking.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I don't know the numbers, but with the very heaviest hammer you can swing is as tight as you can get a nail into a piece of wood. While hitting that nail, the other piece of wood will push away from the impact of the nail. When the nail is hammered all the way in, it will tighten up both pieces to a level based on how hard you hit it.

With a nail gun, that nail is sent through both boards with thousands of pounds of preasure. It is so fast and powerful that it pulls them together allot tighter than just hammering them.

If you get a chance, hammer take two some scrap 2x4's and nail them together with your hammer, then do the same with a nail gun shooting the same sized nails. You will have no doubts as to which does a better job.

Even better is when toe nailing boards together. With a hammer, the hardest part is keeping every thing lined up. With a nail gun, you just squeeze the trigger and it's done. It's also very tight and in the exact location it's supposed to be.

Good luck,
Eddie

You have a point, no doubt about it.

What I experienced was a twisted stud 2x4. Now we nailed it on with air nailer and it stayed twisted. My buddy shoot in there one more nail and it did not help. I hammered those two nails deeper in and the twist was gone. Thats because the hammer worked the stud, not just the nail.

 

[Bird]

You have a point, no doubt about it.

What I experienced was a twisted stud 2x4. Now we nailed it on with air nailer and it stayed twisted. My buddy shoot in there one more nail and it did not help. I hammered those two nails deeper in and the twist was gone. Thats because the hammer worked the stud, not just the nail.

Aaahh, yes, I've seen that happen. Something similar can happen if your air pressure is set too low to drive nails all the way in.

 

[Ifixcars]

I'm spoiled now by using air tools. I haven't taken a tire off by hand for years and years. I like my electric screwdriver too. I don't even like screwing out a couple of phillips without it. Real pleasure for me to push a button and out or in it goes! I do use hand tools, I just look for ways to work faster, and that usually means power tools first if possible. Once you get used to them, you will like them. I would say get a 1/2 inch impact first, since they are very versatile. Get all socketed up in that drive size and you will be on your way. I personally like my air ratchet. It is a good complement to the 1/2 inch impact.

 

[tallyho8]

One of the main complaints I have with air tools is that the contractor can miss the studs with the nails when putting on sheets of plywood and not know it. I had a new roof put on my shop right before Katrina. Katrina took one sheet of plywood off the roof whole with the shingles still attached. When I checked it I found that there were only 3 nails holding the sheet of plywood to the roof. All the other nails had missed the studs. When you are hammering in a nail you know immediately if it misses a stud. Naturally, after Katrina, this roofer was nowhere to be found and the warranty was worthless and this 4X8 hole in the roof caused major rain damage.

 

[midlf]

I have a 3/8" air ratchet. I find I do not use it that much. My prefered item is a 3/8" butterfly impact. Got the HD Husky one. It works well, unless you drop it on its corner that contains the valve.

 

[Bird]

My prefered item is a 3/8" butterfly impact.

Steve, I used my butterfly quite a bit, too, and of course I've repaired a few of them. In my opinion, there's just two major differences that determine whether to select the ratchet or the butterfly. One is the shape of the tools and how room you have to work with. The butterfly requires more open space straight out from the nut or bolt. The other is the power. The butterfly will produce 3 or 4 times the amount of torque that the ratchet will produce. In some cases, that's good; you want more power. In other cases, that's bad; I've been known to twist things in two. But I'll agree that the butterfly is a handy little tool to have, and it sure is fast.

 

[Boomerang1]

I have had my 1/4'' & 3/8'' Snap-On air ratchets since 1980 with one rebuild. Also have a 3/8'' butterfly, 3/8'' impact, two 1/2'' impacts & a 3/4'' impact.
When I was a bodyman I used the 1/4'' & 3/8'' ratchets most of the time for removing sheetmetal parts.

 

[midlf]

Steve, I used my butterfly quite a bit, too, and of course I've repaired a few of them. In my opinion, there's just two major differences that determine whether to select the ratchet or the butterfly. One is the shape of the tools and how room you have to work with. The butterfly requires more open space straight out from the nut or bolt. The other is the power. The butterfly will produce 3 or 4 times the amount of torque that the ratchet will produce. In some cases, that's good; you want more power. In other cases, that's bad; I've been known to twist things in two. But I'll agree that the butterfly is a handy little tool to have, and it sure is fast.

Bird you are exactly correct. First consideration is "will the ratchet fit". Second is "is the impact force going to be excessive". The butterfly has a flow control that will regulate force but I seldom use it. If I have concerns about excessive force I will skip the butterfly impact. When removing hardware force is not usually a concern. Only once did I have a bolt gall up and snap on removal with the impact. I suspect my result with a hand tool would have been the same. (sometimes you do get lucky however. The bolt was in a non-critical application, and broke off clean with enough threads to get a nut on it.)

 

[Bird]

The butterfly has a flow control that will regulate force but I seldom use it.

I think just about every impact wrench I know of has a flow control of one type of another, and I've never known anyone to use it. If you want less torque, you just don't hold the trigger as long. And on some impacts, that flow control/power control/torque control or whatever you want to call it, only works for forward power; i.e., tightening right hand threads, while others reduce both forward and reverse power.

Of course, there is a place for using that adjustment and that is on assembly lines where you want every bolt exactly the same degree of tightness, torque, or tension. You can get test equipment, such as Skidmore-Wilhelm, and there are valves for use on assembly lines that let you have a specific air flow for a specific length of time, usually 5 seconds?, after which the air is automatically cut off.

I think a battery hold down bracket on my car, and a head bolt on my daughter's motorscooter, are about the only things I remember right now that I twisted in two with the butterfly.

 

[RobertN]

So, say, to take skid plate, transfercase, transmission, clutch off- you would first try to use air ratchet or impact wrench and only if there is not enough space look for hand wrench?

I am asking stupid questions, I know, but as I said - I never used them.

I remember at least one time - pressing struts with spring compressor - I really wished to have some power help; killed my forearms on it big time.

From my expierience. I grew up around Jeeps('42 Ford and '70 CJ5), as well as having friends with them. Also have air tools I have torn Jeeps apart to small components and built them back up. That is in addition to race cars, cars, trucks etc.

For all around use, I use the following, in order:
1 - Air nozzle - there is no end to things that need a blast to clean them off, blow out passages etc
2 - 1/2" impact - Best thing I bought. Have regular and deep impact sockets. Use it all the time.
3 - 3/8" butterfly - Use it all the time too. It does all kinds of work, with more toque than an air ratchet; I have an air ratchet but never use it.

I have a die grinder and air chisel, and DA sander. They get used when needed, but are not as general purpose as a 1/2" Impact gun.

I also have a brad nailer and finish nailer(Porter Cable). I used the finish nailer most of the two.

I wound up with 4 hoses. Two are 25' and get used all the time. Most of the time they are easier to use, don't get as tangled etc. They are also drug around the garage and driveway, so they are not particularily clean; ok for the garage though. The other two 50' hoses, are clean and set aside. I use them when needed in the house for finish nailing, or when we refinished some cabinets inside.

They say to use air hose instead of extension cords; that is the reason for lots of hose...

I like pretty much everything I have, but in the future will get a different compresser when the time comes. I got a 5hp 60gallon upright, with oil-less compresser. It is loud! It has worked for all I need, but is not like having my old 2hp twin cylinder cast iron compresser.

Whe working on stuff, I almost always tear down with air tools. Most assembly is with hand tools though. When I do use air for assembly, I am careful with pressure and torque settings; early on I did bust off a few bolts...

 

[SPYDERLK]

That reminds me - get a 50' hosereel that you can hang. Keeps the hose just the right length.
Larry

 

[Bird]

That reminds me - get a 50' hosereel that you can hang. Keeps the hose just the right length.
Larry

I'd agree with you if they weren't so expensive. So I've never had one.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'd agree with you if they weren't so expensive. So I've never had one.

Northern tool had a cheapie that I got two of several years back - - $130 I think. They came with nice looking red hoses, but the hoses had micro leaks in their inner liners. Northern gave me some better hoses. Problem may be worked out by supplier by now.
Larry

 

[Bird]

$130 I think

Ouch, that's what I meant. My current compressor is this one from Northern Tool and I have two of these yellow hoses, except mine are 3/8" x 65 long. This is my first experience with PVC hoses, but so far in a year and a quarter, no problems.

 

[RobertN]

From my expierience.
I got a 5hp 60gallon upright, with oil-less compresser. It is loud! It has worked for all I need, but is not like having my old 2hp twin cylinder cast iron compresser.

I forgot to mention the most important part...

My old compresser rusted out. It was a 20gal 2hp twin cylinder that worked well. But, the petcock for draining the tank was under a brace, where it was impossible to access, and black widows like holes like that That's why I have the bigger compresser; the old one was a pain in the patootsie to drain and as such eventually rusted out and leaked.

When I got this compresser, I modified it before I ever used it. It was the same; the petcock was impossible to get to. I got some elbows and short lengths of pipe to match the compresser threads. This was used to extend the drain out the side to where I could actually reach it. I originally put a blower nozzle on it, so I just tapped it with my toe to drain.

Now, the compresser is easy to drain; it gets done at every use.

It amazes me how much moisture builds up in there in a single use.

 

[czechsonofagun]

That reminds me - get a 50' hosereel that you can hang. Keeps the hose just the right length.
Larry

got that - only for the space the reel has to be mounted flat, but it works reasonably well.