Am I throwing money away if I by this TSC box blade

[Smokeydog]

It’s a whole lot easier to add some bracing before bending. Pushing back buts the most stress and damage to the frame. A receiver hitch might be handy too.

 

[streamin]

there isn't much to anything wearing out in box blades besides they get ugly when they rust. I bought a used one years ago for $500. It weighs 1000lbs plus so it doubles as a ballast. That one sells for 4K at least now. It is a world of difference when digging in. I know you bought one already but you can improve what you have if you need to.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

Though I agree that the average worker at the TSC stores aren't the most experienced or sometimes the brightest, I've alsways found them helpful. They'll check whatever they can for you if you ask.
Yes, I'd check for consistent welds and other construction flaws, but the average user should be OK with the County Line brand.

 

[FERLING]

This TSC box blade is only rated 32hp and my LS is 42hp. Would I just destroy it or could I just slice slower? Never used a box blade before.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-box-blade-6-ft

This will be O.K. using in forward scraping but the weak link will be in reverse pushing with one corner doing most of work. With a box blade buy one that is over rated for your tractor. It will give you extra weight for a counter balance if you have a loader. The extra thickness of the metal will allow your tractir to spin it's wheels when pulling or pushing without bending your box blade.
I have a WorkMaster 50 New Holland (4x4) with a 8 ft. HD box blade. At the beginning I had one of those one piece quick hitch category 2 HD hooked to box blade. Pushing backwards in a thicket/brush one side of box blade hit a stump/rock twisting the hell out of the quick hitch but the box blade did not bend. Replaced the twisted one piece quick hitch with Pat's brand category hitch 2 and no problem since. Anything that doesn't move just causes the tractor to spin with no damage to Pat's quick hitch or box blade.

 

[Fielding]

Get one that is a few inches wider than your back tires so you can cover your tracks.

I have a Westward Branded, Chinese built one, works great.

 

[Gord Baker]

If it bogs the tractor down, raise it slightly!

 

[Vigo327]

I imagine the manufacturer's rating is a generalization as to the weight and traction that the average 25-35 engine HP tractor has, and that's about it.

So if they'r saying 35hp max, and yours puts out 42, that's 20% more HP, so no warranty claims (is there a warranty?).

Absolutely. A generalization that people who 'have to ask' can look at so they don't buy things that their tractor literally can't pick up off the ground, etc. It's not a high quality bit of information.

I have a TSC 60" box blade. I've added weight to it, but it was working fine for my needs before that, now just cuts in a little quicker at the start of each pass.

I think you have to have a pretty serious size class mismatch going before you can snag a ripper on something and have the tractor, from a dead stop, just start tearing and bending metal instead of spinning tires. I think the main factor there is actually momentum. Kinetic energy goes up with the square of speed or something like that, basically if you go twice as fast you're carrying 4 times as much energy. So even a properly matched tractor and implement are still going to find and break the weakest link if you snag something while moving too fast. So I don't really buy the 42hp Kubota just ripping through the "35hp rated" box blade unless there was a rolling start involved.

There's no incentive for reviewers to be honest about how they broke their product, and besides...If all the buyers knew how to handle all the variables, then retailers wouldn't bother rating drag implements, with no driveline.. by HP!

 

[alpacalips]

My boss got a 6' Countyline box blade for our 4052r and I wish he'd spent a little more on a heavier duty one. We haven't used it much but two ripper teeth have broken off tips and the steel is tweaked on both sides near the lift arm pins. Comparing it to other brands it is kind of a weak design.

 

[LindenBruce]

I've got a Titan #3206. It's well built. 1/2" side plates. I wish it were heavier though. Weights 530 pounds and it's not enough. Sometimes it gets bouncy so I'm thinking of adding more weight. But otherwise it seems like a very sturdy unit. B.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

Sometimes it gets bouncy so I'm thinking of adding more weight
--- ---
Bouncy ?? ?? How do you do that unless you are going as fast as the tractor will move full speed ??
On my cheap, China built box blade there are a number of places to hang 42# suit case weights..

 

[Rich B1]

If a box blade is “bouncing” you are going too fast, the blade pitch is wrong, or both. A box blade is, IMO, a slow attachment that will do the job just fine if you are patient with your travel speed and learn to set the blade pitch with the top link so the box blade can work.

I have a 4’ King Kutter XB. A light box blade behind a small tractor (NH TC21D). I go slow and am careful with blade pitch. No extra weight added and I can run out of traction. It takes patience

 

[5030]

Well, I needed one in somewhat of a hurry and bought the 6 footer and it worked fine and didn't fail either and I was pulling it behind one of my M9 Kubota's (92 pto). I was only grading some drives and I sold it to a guy who I rebuilt his FEL bucket for, for the same price I paid for it so it wasn't a bad deal. I'm pretty sure I could have destroyed it if I had used it hard. I didn't. Not a HD box blade by any stretch but they are serviceable so long as you watch what you are doing. You flog it, it will fail.

 

[gummo96130]

Absolutely. A generalization that people who 'have to ask' can look at so they don't buy things that their tractor literally can't pick up off the ground, etc. It's not a high quality bit of information.

I have a TSC 60" box blade. I've added weight to it, but it was working fine for my needs before that, now just cuts in a little quicker at the start of each pass.

I think you have to have a pretty serious size class mismatch going before you can snag a ripper on something and have the tractor, from a dead stop, just start tearing and bending metal instead of spinning tires. I think the main factor there is actually momentum. Kinetic energy goes up with the square of speed or something like that, basically if you go twice as fast you're carrying 4 times as much energy. So even a properly matched tractor and implement are still going to find and break the weakest link if you snag something while moving too fast. So I don't really buy the 42hp Kubota just ripping through the "35hp rated" box blade unless there was a rolling start involved.

There's no incentive for reviewers to be honest about how they broke their product, and besides...If all the buyers knew how to handle all the variables, then retailers wouldn't bother rating drag implements, with no driveline.. by HP!

You reminded about another question I had and that’s speed or momentum. I have 3 ranges with my hydrostatic. I’m guessing I should run with 2nd gear and draft to get started?

 

[Vigo327]

I have had my box blade 'chatter' on really hard-packed dirt if it doesn't already have something in it weighing it down. I have some dirt out here that is pretty hard to get into with just the blade. That's what the rippers are for.. The only actual bouncing i've seen from the box blade is when it snags a rock and 'rolls' it up out of the ground and rides up over it on the way and falls back down. Doing that at a little bit of speed is 'bouncy'.

I have 3 ranges with my hydrostatic. I’m guessing I should run with 2nd gear and draft to get started?

I think a tractor that size isn't gonna need low range unless you've got the rippers down and are ripping pretty deep. I can't say for certain but yeah, my best guess is start in the mid range and see how it goes.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

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BUy once, cry once.

I agree with the idea of buying the best you can afford. Replacing something that didn't last because it couldn't stand up to the job drives me crazy.

Sure sometimes you don't need the best. I have a 1" Harbor Frieght Hammer Drill that I've had for years. The caveat being that I don't need that drill very often.

On the other hand, I just bought a 72" Rhino Roll-Over Box Blade. It was twice the money of a good box blade and I found a 2 year old that had been sitting on the lot, new ones are almost 3 times the money.

For me it works well in my situation, and most folks don't need that type of capability or have my reasons for needing it.

I almost bought a standard box blade and was looking at Titans. The dealers around me didn't even know what what a roll-over box blade was, and most were only focused on selling their own inventory. Finally one dealer called his rep, and found the unit I ending up buying - I think that dealer was glad to finally be rid of it.

Forums are great as these are users, many of whom have made mistakes that you get to benefit from.

Take a hard look at what you'll be doing with it, how often you'll be doing it, and what position you'd be in if it suddenly breaks.