Another 8N Not Starting Question

[Rockfootball47]

remember.. you can always pull the solenoid and use a gator clip wire from small terminal to ground, and then hit one large terminal with hot. if nada. hit the other large terminal with hot. ONE of them should make it engage. if neither do.. it's not the correct solenoid. if it does work.. simply hook it up witht he hot post that made it clunk hooked to the battery, other post to the starter. then small post to the interlocked switch.. which just connects to ground when pressed and in neutral.. etc..

Any specific gator clip and cable I should use? Just a jumper cable? I only ask because while trying to start it by jumping it across the solenoid terminals the jumper cables we were using began to melt on the clips causing the metal contact to fall off. My assumption was that 30 seconds of constant cranking was too hot for them to handle.

 

[Soundguy]

if you re-read my post real carefully.. you'd see that i said to pull the solenoid.

thus all we are testing is the electromagnet. a few amps. 14awg wire is fine for the jumper. all we are dong is connecting small post to ground.. and then finding which of the 2 big posts is the hot side of the coil/electromagnet.

 

[Rockfootball47]

Update time.

Went down to work on the tractor yesterday with a buddy, his dad and brother. With his dads help we used a multimeter to narrow the issue down to the distributor coil. We determined that we had the 2 and 4 wires reversed on the generator which he said may explain why it kept trying to crank on us and wouldn't stop when we unplugged the battery and turned off the ignition. We also determined that the starter button wasn't working because we simply grounded the wire that leads to it from the wiring harness to the frame and it cranked. But when it was attached to the button and we pushed it it didn't crank.

I was just looking at getting the following parts to replace the Coil, Distributor Cap & Starter Button.

Coil
Coil. 6 volt. Part number 9N12024

Distributor Cap
Distributor cap. Part number 9N12106C

Starter Button
Switch. Push-button starter switch. Part number 8N11500WG

I am assuming these will be the typical Tisco parts since all of the other parts that I have ordered from them have been. Would these parts be okay, or should I invest in higher quality parts? Note that we already tuned up the internal components of the distributor (i.e. Points, condenser, rotor. Part number ATK6FFR )

Thanks again for your help guys.

 

[94BULLITT]

There is nothing wrong with tisco parts. Your local tractor dealer may have everything in stock but the starter button.

 

[Rockfootball47]

There is nothing wrong with tisco parts. Your local tractor dealer may have everything in stock but the starter button.

My mistake. I thought I read somewhere on here that some of the Tisco parts, particularly the electrical components, are more often than not built oversees and not built to the best quality.

There is a local dealer about 30 miles from where my tractor is, but I would rather have the parts before I go down next so I don't waste a trip. What is the easiest way to find a local dealer to my home? My land where I work on my tractor is about 2 hours away. I don't get down that often.

 

[murphy1244]

Make sure it is a brass contact cap.

 

[Rockfootball47]

Make sure it is a brass contact cap.

Are you referring to the points on the inside of the distributor cap?

 

[Soundguy]

tisco points will be junk.

cap? probably ok.

ps.. if you disconnected the battery.. i don't see how the starter still cranked.

i'm also trying to think of a way that wireing the genny wrong would make it crank. havn't come up with a way that would happen.. unless it was all so fumble jumbled up that you hade wires going everywhere.

I think unfortunately, this is developing into a case of too many cooks, to many spoons in the pot.. and no cookbook or recipie.. and you are having to work on a dish half prepaired by another cook, and you don't know what's already in the pot.

 

[Rockfootball47]

tisco points will be junk.

cap? probably ok.

ps.. if you disconnected the battery.. i don't see how the starter still cranked.

i'm also trying to think of a way that wireing the genny wrong would make it crank. havn't come up with a way that would happen.. unless it was all so fumble jumbled up that you hade wires going everywhere.

I think unfortunately, this is developing into a case of too many cooks, to many spoons in the pot.. and no cookbook or recipie.. and you are having to work on a dish half prepaired by another cook, and you don't know what's already in the pot.

I can't say that we had wires going everywhere, but we did determine that the two wires that connect to the outer rounded casing of the generator were reversed. This phenomenon, continual cranking, also occurred when we had the new, incorrect starter solenoid wired up and were attempting to start via the "jumping" method. When I say incorrect solenoid I mean the third post came out of the I instead of the S. From what we could tell after looking at it this weekend the wiring is correct now. We were just concerned with the Voltage Regulator, Coil & Distributor Cap. I am also concerned that when we "tuned-up" the distributor with new points, condensor, etc, we may not have gapped the points properly. Do you know where I could find this information to ensure we put it back together properly? The shop manual I have is for 8N experts that want to do more than bring it back to life.

Also, where do you recommend I get a new Coil & the correct Starter Solenoid? Does Napa carry both of them?

 

[Soundguy]

yes.. nap a will carry a coil and starter solenoid.

front munt points gap at .015

side mount points gap at .025

the shop service manual and the fo-4 are the only ones I know of. the shop manual is comprehensive. the f0-4 ain't bad.. both would do fine.

reversing field and ground at the genny likely made it charge max.....

incorrect solenoid should just have made it not function