Another 8N Not Starting Question

[lilranch2001]

is it another front mount 8N?
If it is take the best of both tractors and build one tractor.
Then you will have parts to spare you could even e bay

 

[Rockfootball47]

Exactly what I was thinking. Just want to make sure its a good deal on a used tractor and that it really does run great.

 

[lilranch2001]

There is nothing ever sure in life........

 

[Soundguy]

If thats possible I would much rather do that. Do you know what else I would need to change out or would everything from the front mount match up?

not a direct swap.

at minumum, the timing cover and cam is different.

genny mounts on opposite side, different mounts.. different genny, oil fill / breather tube is different .. etc.. etc..

front mounts don't have timing marks or port on the rear for shooting timing... etc.. etc..

id get a whole engine if I changed distribuitor types.. that or stick with a used block of the same type.

sounds like someone did not line bore the old one.

 

[Soundguy]

if that 900$ unit really does have a good clutch and hyds and rebuilt engine?

i'd buy it. swap 1 good rear rim on it.

put a 13$ seal ont he pto shaft and call it good! and then have 45% of a tractor in the garage as spare parts. sell the junk block for scrap after stripping it completely down to nuttin.

 

[Rockfootball47]

if that 900$ unit really does have a good clutch and hyds and rebuilt engine?

i'd buy it. swap 1 good rear rim on it.

put a 13$ seal ont he pto shaft and call it good! and then have 45% of a tractor in the garage as spare parts. sell the junk block for scrap after stripping it completely down to nuttin.

The problem is this is actually my dads tractor that I am working on. I offered to get it running if I could borrow it for mowing at my new house (4 acres of grass) until I can save up for my own tractor. So I think it might be more cost effective to just buy a used block ($200-$400)and rebuild with the old engine internals (Free?).

As long as the block is good, should I have anything to worry about when using the old engine internals in the new block? Basically, I want to see how much more it would be to use another block vs just buying the other tractor. I don't feel like I have much to worry about besides what I was already going to replace (bearings, rings, valves, seals, etc) and getting another block should offset some of the money I was going to spend getting the old block machined to fix the compression issue.

 

[Soundguy]

the new block should have all its main caps.. and i dunno.. I think i'd send it to a shop to check true on the caps and journals.. if it was me... ie.. it is is a stripped block..

 

[Rockfootball47]

So I wanted to update everyone on my current situation. Over the past couple of months I have been trying to find a new-to-me "affordable" block with little to no luck. With spring quickly approaching in Ohio I decided to start looking for my own tractor for the time being. Some of you may have seen another post I started in the buying advice sub-forum for a Ford 3000. I decided to not go with it and instead found a 9N in really good condition with a heavy duty blade for a fair price near my home. I picked it up this weekend and have been tinkering with it in preparation for the 2014 season. Changed the engine oil and filter and may try to adjust the carb if I gain the courage since it sounds a little sloppy at full throttle in 3rd.

One real quick question while I am thinking about it. The left brake, from drivers sitting position, seems to be stuck. Not stuck as in the tractor keeps turning to the left, but stuck as in I can't push the pedal down unless I use extreme force and its only maybe 1/2" of movement. Same amount of force to bring it up. Now it doesn't seem to cause any issues while driving, no brake smell or pull to left, but I want to make sure to take care of it before I need the tractor for mowing. For the time being I loosened the adjuster on the drum just incase theres and issue. I have had no luck in the TI manual or online for this issue. Do you guys have any ideas?

 

[Jwolf223]

That's an easy one I had the same problem all it is is the paws in the break housing that moves the shoes in and out on 9n they don't use the automotive style like on 8n's and all you have to do is pull off the drum and clean up the shoes and paws I would also remove the felt dust cover your not going fast enough and that normally holds the break dust and gear oil that will build up and cause it to stop working and watch out when you do remove the drum the axle is riveted to the drum and will take two people to put in and take out

 

[Jwolf223]

As for your carb I would let it sit in acid for about three to four days to get the rust out of the main jet ports and the idle ports you will think its clean but put a o-ring pick into the two holes that lead to the main jet and I would put in all new seals and throttle and choke shafts so there is no leaks that can cause the motor to be lean you should luck out with your block I would at least put in rings and check if the sleeves in the engine are out of round you normally don't have to get a new block but to have a machinist put in new sleeves and have your valves ground and lapped in that is the only way to raise compression and you can get them to shave the head I have one of the few sherman hi-torque heads which raises my compression to 7.5-1 instead of 6-1