Another 8N Not Starting Question

[doxford jim]

Which is why I would replace the oil pressure gauge with a proven one. If the pressure is correct then the relief valve is not functioning properly.

 

[Soundguy]

I suspect the gauge too. 80+ psi is possible on the later engines.. but I'd have a hard time believing it on an n rebuilt or not.

The plunger has a flat spot to drain off some oil regardless if forced closed or not. Also, she's a partial flow oil system, and oil filter is at the end. Lots of places to bleed oil that even a regular rebuild won't fix. Can for instance runs bare in the block, only way to correct tolerances is with custom cam inserts.

 

[Rockfootball47]

I suspect the gauge too. 80+ psi is possible on the later engines.. but I'd have a hard time believing it on an n rebuilt or not.

The plunger has a flat spot to drain off some oil regardless if forced closed or not. Also, she's a partial flow oil system, and oil filter is at the end. Lots of places to bleed oil that even a regular rebuild won't fix. Can for instance runs bare in the block, only way to correct tolerances is with custom cam inserts.

Found the problem. I decided to pull the spring from my 9N and compare it to the spring from my dad's 8N. See picture below. I noticed immediately that the one from the 8N was longer and much stiffer. So I swapped springs and the 8N started right up and went to 30PSI. I guess I'll be buying a new spring to replace.

I also noticed another problem when bolting the fenders back on. I saw oil leaking from the right (looking back to front) lifter arm shaft. How difficult is this to fix?

 

[Soundguy]

not difficult at all, just have to take the trumpets and axles off to get at the coter keyed castle not back there.

left trumpt off lets you do both by taking chunk out. right off just lets you do right.

 

[Eyecatcher]

The right one was leaking on mine, and souNdguy gave me the same advice. It works! I pulled only the right side, since my left one was tight enough to take the nut off w/o it spinning. I actually added another washer under the castle nut, and it tightened right up. I imagine the wrong spring on the oil relief was someones attempt to raise oil pressure on a worn out engine. Sounds like you have a complete rbld, so I'm sure you don't want the heavier spring.

 

[Rockfootball47]

The right one was leaking on mine, and souNdguy gave me the same advice. It works! I pulled only the right side, since my left one was tight enough to take the nut off w/o it spinning. I actually added another washer under the castle nut, and it tightened right up. I imagine the wrong spring on the oil relief was someones attempt to raise oil pressure on a worn out engine. Sounds like you have a complete rbld, so I'm sure you don't want the heavier spring.

Any idea what part numbers I will need besides the new lower link support pin (NCA563C)? Are there any gaskets or seals that I need? I have read in some reviews that there is a type of Loctite sealer (660?) to use where the link mates to the outer casing.

 

[Soundguy]

is the pin damaged? if not, you won't need a new one.

clean the tapered pin and hole. many just slather it up with jb weld and bolt it together. the jb is just there to take up voids, nothing else. loctite green sleeve retainer would likely work, or even rtv, as all you are doing is sealing voivs to prevent seep thru. the taper pin and nut do all the clamping.

as long as the pin and the socket are not mared deeply or wallowed out so as to not fid and seal, should be no hard parts.

get a new trumpet gasket.. etc..