Another 8N Not Starting Question

[Soundguy]

make sure to lube the brake pedal shaft where it enters .. they get rusty and tight. otherwise.. brakes on a 9n/2n are no fun since you pull the axle.

 

[Rockfootball47]

Update time. I ended up overhauling the entire engine. New or restored everything. The only original parts are the voltage regulator and resistor. I go to start the Tractor this weekend and just hear a single click from the starter solenoid. I have confirmed the starter turns fine outside of the frame and the internals look great. New ring gear on the flywheel so that can't be stuck. I confirmed the engine turns just fine with a hand crank.

Since the starter solenoid I had was a Tisco part I decided to replace it with a napa part ST540 made by Echlin which I understand to be a good brand. Got it all hooked up last night and still had the same issue. Just clicks. I confirmed all the wiring to be correct and voltage to be good. I did note that the ST540 solenoid has the ground terminal on the opposing side, can't remember if its on the s or i. But the ground terminal faces away from the engine. I believe the difference had something to do with it being an Automotive style.

Not really sure where to go from here. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Soundguy]

try a jump with a 12v battery. after making sure the 6v battery is really charged.

when jumping with a 12v, just turn key on so points have power, then put tractor in neutral, and block clutch, then hook jump cables to 12v battery, then hook one cable to starter lug, then other cable to something like ratius rod. as soon as you hit that radius rod, starter should spin.

ps, if you painted the starter after overhaul, make sure it's not so painted that it is not grounding to the block

 

[Rockfootball47]

try a jump with a 12v battery. after making sure the 6v battery is really charged.
1) Would it be okay to use a jump box like this instead? Amazon.com: Clore JNC300XL 'Jump-N-Carry' 900 Peak Amp Ultraportable 12-Volt Jump Starter with Light: Automotive

when jumping with a 12v, just turn key on so points have power, then put tractor in neutral, and block clutch, then hook jump cables to 12v battery, then hook one cable to starter lug, then other cable to something like ratius rod. as soon as you hit that radius rod, starter should spin.
2) Stupid question, while doing this should I disconnect the 6V battery, or just do literally exactly what you said and leave the 6V hooked up?

ps, if you painted the starter after overhaul, make sure it's not so painted that it is not grounding to the block
3) Fortunately I did not paint anything on the tractor.

 

[Soundguy]

1, a starter jump pack s nothing like putting a battery on a starter. your car or truck will be quite sufficient for a jump off. save the jumper pack for boosting a weak battery, not totally powering a starter.

2, lets look at this. if you disconnect the 6v battery.... how is the tractor got ANY chance of starting.... the 6v battery is what is powering the points via the key. the direct jump from 12v battery to the starter is what turns the engine.

do exactly as i mentioned. 6v bat charged, key on to power points, hookup battery, put tractor in neutral, block clutch, hookup one cable to starter stud, next cable to frame/ground and starter will spin as soon as you make contact. DO NOT hit the starter switch. As instructed,t he 12v and 6v systems are isolated.

 

[Rockfootball47]

1, a starter jump pack s nothing like putting a battery on a starter. your car or truck will be quite sufficient for a jump off. save the jumper pack for boosting a weak battery, not totally powering a starter.

2, lets look at this. if you disconnect the 6v battery.... how is the tractor got ANY chance of starting.... the 6v battery is what is powering the points via the key. the direct jump from 12v battery to the starter is what turns the engine.

do exactly as i mentioned. 6v bat charged, key on to power points, hookup battery, put tractor in neutral, block clutch, hookup one cable to starter stud, next cable to frame/ground and starter will spin as soon as you make contact. DO NOT hit the starter switch. As instructed,t he 12v and 6v systems are isolated.

I don't have any jumper cables since I have jump boxes instead, so I'll have to pick up a set tomorrow to try this. I'll also have to steal my car battery to try it since I unfortunately don't have any laying around. Just an additional 6V battery from my tractor. In the mean time I went ahead and pulled every wire/cable between the starter and battery and cleaned up each connection including the starter post and where the ground connects to the steering column. I charged the battery, which was reading 7V, then tried again with both the old Tisco and new Echlin solenoids. Both just made the click sound.

Is the point of trying with a 12V battery to send a large surge and prove that lack of current is the problem?

 

[Soundguy]

correct. and ps.. you don't need to take the bat out of the car, just pull up tot he tractor and attach cables, etc.

one last thing, you had mentioned it turns by hand correct? just making sure we are not dealing with a hydrolock issue.

what does voltage ont he battery go to when the relay is chattering?

 

[Rockfootball47]

correct. and ps.. you don't need to take the bat out of the car, just pull up tot he tractor and attach cables, etc.

one last thing, you had mentioned it turns by hand correct? just making sure we are not dealing with a hydrolock issue.

what does voltage ont he battery go to when the relay is chattering?

So the problem turned out to be the starter. One of the brushes had come loose. Got everything back together and finally got it started. Unfortunately we noticed that the oil pressure wasn't going up even after 5-10 seconds of letting it run. So we came up with the brilliant idea to fill oil from the oil pressure plug on the front of the tractor. Added some oil and the gauge jumped to its max, 80psi and wont go down. Oil had actually started leaking from some of the oil lines including at the actual gauge.

Any idea why there could be too high of oil pressure?

 

[Soundguy]

Should be near impossible for an n to make more than 45 due to the relief, the one you just messed with.

If it had super cold oil and a super tight engine, at cold throttle it could likely be making 65 psi.

I'd take that plunger out and make sure you didn't get it jambed up

Then I'd look at the oil, didn't put gear oil in it did you?

 

[Rockfootball47]

Should be near impossible for an n to make more than 45 due to the relief, the one you just messed with.

If it had super cold oil and a super tight engine, at cold throttle it could likely be making 65 psi.

I'd take that plunger out and make sure you didn't get it jambed up

Then I'd look at the oil, didn't put gear oil in it did you?

Nope, I swear it wasn't gear oil but that would have been interesting. I'm wondering if the incorrect oil pressure relief spring could be to blame. Do you know if there is a standard "free length" for the spring? Or should I just order another one to be sure since they're probably so cheap?