Another Mini-Dozer

   / Another Mini-Dozer #232  

OK, but I am taking the advice of someone who stated earlier, that I should plan on Installing a hydraulic pump when I can afford one. Would the added shaft and pullies not be a good idea as long as I assemble it correctly as shown in sketch ?

Adding the jack shaft with the pulley arrangement as you have shown will definitely slow down the dozer. Be sure to add a provision for belt tension either by hinging the jack shaft mount or allowing the mount to move up and down. Or is the rear idler used for tension?

Others have suggested reducing the size of the pulley on engine by half. Although you could make it slightly smaller, I would not go as far as one half the size of what you currently have as that so reduces the surface area that you would probably have belt slippage and greatly reduced belt life.
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #233  
Very nice work.
If you want to use the jack shaft to drive the hydraulic pump make sure that it has sufficient rpm. You might be better of driving the pump directly from the engine or by separate belt.
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #234  
Hi Bob, Attached is a picture of a dozer side view. Note that the rear drive is a sprocket and the front is an idler. (without the teeth)

Rick
 

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   / Another Mini-Dozer
  • Thread Starter
#235  
I would add zerks to those free wheeling sprockets.Make'em last as long as possible.
Done! See photo. :)
Adding the jack shaft with the pulley arrangement as you have shown will definitely slow down the dozer. Be sure to add a provision for belt tension either by hinging the jack shaft mount or allowing the mount to move up and down. Or is the rear idler used for tension?
Yes, the rear idler is spring loaded but I would need an idler on the front belt. :)
Others have suggested reducing the size of the pulley on engine by half. Although you could make it slightly smaller, I would not go as far as one half the size of what you currently have as that so reduces the surface area that you would probably have belt slippage and greatly reduced belt life.
I agree with that ! :thumbsup:
Hi Bob, Attached is a picture of a dozer side view. Note that the rear drive is a sprocket and the front is an idler. (without the teeth) Rick
Well, I'll be... I've never seen that before !. Like I said, one is never too old to learn ! :eek:
 

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   / Another Mini-Dozer #236  
Hi Bob, Attached is a picture of a dozer side view. Note that the rear drive is a sprocket and the front is an idler. (without the teeth)

Rick

Always thought that was the norm, the reason being that the main driving direction (forward) will pull the track directly on the ground, so that there is no tension over the top and round the idler (this would be the case in reverse, not ideal as it puts a lot of strain on the idler and frictional loses would be higher, not to mention any slack in the tracks would cause a delay in drive.)
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #237  
Others have suggested reducing the size of the pulley on engine by half. Although you could make it slightly smaller, I would not go as far as one half the size of what you currently have as that so reduces the surface area that you would probably have belt slippage and greatly reduced belt life.
Thats what i was thinking too... bending a belt too tight will cause fatigue cracks in the rubber, and reduce the friction area between belt and pulley.

Our Husqvarna rider lawn mower has a special heat resistant belt for the wheel drive, because its used as a clutch as well: Despite that, i still have to replace it every 3 years.
So if your dozer belts fail prematurely, check for them heat resistant belts.
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer
  • Thread Starter
#240  
Rawinok,
When you get some down time away from your excellent fabrication, will you post some more details of how you slowed down your drill press. Every since
I saw that it's been eating at me to do the same thing to mine.

I'm adding my"aye" to that proposal!:thumbsup::cool:

+1 on that one from me.

...Oh ya the drill press thing too.
Chris

... Count me in for the drill press also.


Well, I've got some down time now so I thought I'd give you the run down on the modification that slowed my inexpensive Sears drill press from 620 RPM to about 205 RPM. The first thing I did was purchace a 1.5" diameter pulley (1/2" bore) from DrillSpot.com | Online Hardware Store for $3.82. Next I purchased a 4.5" dia. pulley (1/2" bore) from www.pheonix-mfg.com for $15.30 (about twice of what I should of paid for it!). Then, from www.McMaster-Carr.com I purchased a 1/2" dia. x 9" long keyed shaft for $16.90, two 1/2" dia. pillow block bearings for $21.90 and two 1/2" shaft collars for $1.50. This made the total $59.42 (plus the cost of one additional belt).
The Surplus Center did not have any of those parts at the time but it would probably be worth checking with them first for maybe a better price. I then scrounged around in the scrap pile and found a piece of 4" square tubing (3/16" wall x 5" long). On the side of the tube I welded two pieces of 1 x 1/4" flat bar drilled and properly spaced for both mounting the tube to the drill press as well as mounting the motor to the tube(refer to photos). I drilled the tube so that the two pillow block bearings could be mounted to the inside.
I welded a 1/2" thick tab which was drilled and threaded for a 1/2" bolt on the outside of the tube for the motor belt tensioner. I cut the sheet metal shroud away so that there wouldn't be any interference with the added pulleys. Note: Making this modification throws the center of gravity back enough to make the drill press want to tip backwards. It will either need to be bolted to the bench (if it is a bench model) or mounted to a heavy plate which extends out towards the back at least 6". I then assemble it and purchased an additional belt and presto! Before I knew it I was knee deep in shavings !
 

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