Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie....

   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie.... #41  
A couple of observations I didn't see mentioned.

First, I would select the implement sizes and capacities you need to accomplish the most of your work (the 80% rule). My buddies convinced me last year to get a 6' brush hog to cut my 12 acres of former hay field, rather than the 5 footer I thought would do. They told me it would take me a long time to cut it with a five foot unit, and I decidd their arguments held merit. Twenty acres to mow is a lot more. How often do you want to mow it? If every month, you may want a wider unit My Kioti DK45SE is not recommended for more than six feet, nor is the DK50SE (same tractor, more horsepower but not more weight). These tractors are compact tractors, they are not like the same horsepower tractors from thirty years ago which weighed twice as much.

Second is FEL lift capacity. IIRC, the Kioti and Mahindra both are rated at the pivot point. Lifting a bale where the center of gravity is three feet forward of the pivot point reduces the lift capacity quite a bit. As an example, a loader rated at 2368 lbs at the pivot pin can only lift 1742 lbs if the load is centered about 20 inches forward of the pivot point. Three feet forward will reduce it much more. And for any really heavy lift like round bales, you need not only a counterweight on the three point hitch (a heavy one, like 800 lbs) but also filled rear tires, further adding to the weight of the tractor. I estimate the weight of my DK45SE to be about 7500 lbs, with filled tires and 810 lbs of counterweight. For round bales, I would want a lift capacity at the pivot pins at least 2 1/2 times the weight of the bale.

Once you know for sure what size cutter you want, and how heavy your bales are, they will pretty much dictate your tractor needs. Compact tractors are not meant to handle cutters much bigger than six foot models, and are probably marginal for large round bales. I would be looking at utility tractors in the 55 to 70 horsepower range, which should open up the used market for you considerably. There is a lot of value in many older tractors, but you do need someone who is knowledgeable to evaluate each one that you are interested in. You can always hire someone with a roll-off wrecker truck to bring it home for you.

A final note - my dealer tells me that he sends out his rolloff to bring tractors in for repair when they need it, but the owner can't bring it in. I do expect to pay for that service, but I know his rates are reasonable - not what a normal wrecker operator would charge, even though his equipment is larger than most wreckers. The reason he is my dealer is that in comparison to the other dealers in my area with tractors that eventually made my short list, he was ten grand cheaper for an equal configuration.

Please be aware that I am not trying to be a naysayer on a compact tractor in the 40-50 horsepower range, that's what worked for me. I am wanting you to be able to accomplish your tasks in a timely manner, with safety. Good luck with your search.
 
   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie.... #43  
here you go... :thumbsup::laughing::rolleyes:

M7040D Tractor Model Hydraulic 2oo7 Diesel

okay, just in case you think I am serious... I am not- don't contact them! :thumbdown:

That was actually a good one to illustrate some of the weird stuff they're doing...if you notice, they substitute the letter "O" for zeros in the year....that's often the easiest way to spot them. Lately they seem to add a lot of oddball text to the headline, like %%%***---2oo7 M7040 Tractor---***%%%
 
   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie.... #44  
Yeah, I see them all of the time. Each page of 100 results, I'd say there are usually 3 or 4 that are like that- mostly in farm&garden. Chicago is pretty bad, Rockford- a smaller metropolitan area west of Chicago has many fewer. Not sure how any of your guys' areas are.
 
   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie.... #45  
I thought there was a thread for scams on craigslist, anyway another red flag is the only contact is an email address.

If you copy the title, or part of the title, then google it, it will show up all over the country, like this one is even in Austin Texas!
 
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   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie.... #46  
   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie.... #47  
Lifting those bales will size your tractor. My 2008 Mahindra 5525 (55 hp engine, 45 hp pto, 2WD, 8F/2R gear tranny partially synchronized, power steering) has the ML250 baler with a 6-ft wide bucket, skid steer quick attach option to switch from the bucket to other compatible implements and has 2950 lb lift capacity at the pins to 10.5 ft height. The tractor with the FEL and loaded rear tires weighs about 7000 lb. Cost new: $19K.

Something this size with a shuttle shift transmission, 4WD (possibly) and a cab (possibly) would work fine for you and would cost in the $30K range new.

Good luck
 
   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie.... #48  
Oops, make that the ML250 FEL, not baler--early morning brain fog problem:eek:
 
   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie....
  • Thread Starter
#49  
I would spray for weeds on all the pasture and let the cattle do the mowing. Get what hay need,if thats one cutting good deal,maybe sell your second if a market,then still allow for your hay meadow to grow and turn your cattle into it during winter,,they can eat the tall dead grass,no need to mow,may have to clean it up some the following spring,depending on what type grass your growing. For 15head I would only put out 2 bales at a time,so they are not getting a lot and not eating it down,before gets weathered and a lot of waste. But two keeps the fighting down,but if have them seperated probably just do one to both groups,I don't know how your set up. I don't only feed hay,I put out 20%cubes couple times week and minerals/salt stay all year. I like to un-roll my hay but sometimes don't have the time to feed everyday and ground may be to wet for that but it sure saves on waste.
I know you have the hay to move what you got already but the lift on the 3pt on even a smaller hp unit will move them and loader will lift them,maybe not that good but get you by until all fed and move to the smaller bales. I think the Kubota L4600/mx4700 would do everything, but that's the minimum I would say,if trying to get done with smallest possible. Its not really all about HP but the size and weight of the tractor. Like pulling with the Tahoe you can really load it down and will probably move it or would you like to work in a safer work range and that's why suggest the larger tractors,even up to the 7060 or JD 5075.
I like my 18ft car hauler over a pipe top for these reason. Side loads better,hauling car can open the doors/dove tail so don't high center,over all width makes for a better pull.
Still have not sprayed for weeds nor fertilized my hay-field. I am currently getting twice (2X) the hay I require with one (1) cutting.

I've got to get my fencing around my hay-field completely replaced before I can turn my cattle loose in the hay-field. Although that is a great idea. They could be out there for 3-weeks or more and not get that hay-field eaten down. Right now the fence between me and my neighbor on that side is at least 40-years old, parts of it 60-years old, and none of it touched since at least 1989. It is basically a tangle of barb-wire-mess in a strip of forest. Same with the front fence on the hay-field, and on the other side is RR tracks. Trains coming through all the time.

You can get by very well without a finishing mower. Use your ZTR around the house and for the bigger stuff use your bushhog. A bushhog can make stuff look pretty darn good if you keep the blades in good shape. Take the money you budgeted for the finishing mower and put it on the tractor/loader or a 8 foot bushhog would be my best advice. Just too much trouble taking implements on and off every week. You'll end up mowing with the ZTR and just the bushhog I think.......Look for a M series Kubota used on Craigslist. Check and see if you can find a M5040/M5140 or a M6040. The loaders should do what you want and they are cheaper than the 7040. Mowing a 20 acre pasture with a 6 foot bushhog takes a LONG time. Might want to think about a 8 foot. My Landpride 8 foot mows very nice and clean. I have a SCAG Cheetah ZTR, it and the 8 foot Landpride keeps the farm looking great. If you have cows grazing it you might not need a bushhog at all..........
Noted on sizes and Kubota recommendations.

And BTW that Kubota ZG227 (54" deck) ZTR is insane on its abilities. This week I used it to "appropriate" about 2-3 acres of hay-field and turn it into "lawn" around the buildings. Took a couple passes, but mowed through it with no issues.

Seems like you and most folks are telling me a 7-8 foot bushhog. Mental note made.

Are those with loaders?
I've rescheduled to call back both Kioti and Mahindra on Monday/Tuesday to confirm all numbers.

Got slammed this week. Crazy busy with other farm-stuff.

A couple of observations I didn't see mentioned.

First, I would select the implement sizes and capacities you need to accomplish the most of your work (the 80% rule). My buddies convinced me last year to get a 6' brush hog to cut my 12 acres of former hay field, rather than the 5 footer I thought would do. They told me it would take me a long time to cut it with a five foot unit, and I decidd their arguments held merit. Twenty acres to mow is a lot more. How often do you want to mow it? If every month, you may want a wider unit My Kioti DK45SE is not recommended for more than six feet, nor is the DK50SE (same tractor, more horsepower but not more weight). These tractors are compact tractors, they are not like the same horsepower tractors from thirty years ago which weighed twice as much.

Second is FEL lift capacity. IIRC, the Kioti and Mahindra both are rated at the pivot point. Lifting a bale where the center of gravity is three feet forward of the pivot point reduces the lift capacity quite a bit. As an example, a loader rated at 2368 lbs at the pivot pin can only lift 1742 lbs if the load is centered about 20 inches forward of the pivot point. Three feet forward will reduce it much more. And for any really heavy lift like round bales, you need not only a counterweight on the three point hitch (a heavy one, like 800 lbs) but also filled rear tires, further adding to the weight of the tractor. I estimate the weight of my DK45SE to be about 7500 lbs, with filled tires and 810 lbs of counterweight. For round bales, I would want a lift capacity at the pivot pins at least 2 1/2 times the weight of the bale.

Once you know for sure what size cutter you want, and how heavy your bales are, they will pretty much dictate your tractor needs. Compact tractors are not menat to handle cutters much bigger than six foot models, and are probably marginal for large round bales. I would be looking at utility tractors in the 55 to 70 horsepower range, which should open up the used market for you considerably. There is a lot of value in many loder tractors, but you do need someone who is knowledgeable to evaluate each one that you are interested in. You can always hire somenone with a roll-off wrecker truck to bring it home for you.

A final note - my dealer tells me that he sends out his rolloff to bring tractors in for repair when they need it, but the owner can't bring it in. I do expect to pay for that service, but I know his rates are reasonable - not what a normal wrecker operator would charge, even though his equipment is larger than most wreckers. The reason he is my dealer is that in comparison to the other dealers in my area with tractors that eventually made my short list, he was ten grand cheaper for an equal configuration.

Please be aware that I am not trying to be a naysayer on a compact tractor in the 40-50 horsepower range, that's what worked for me. I am wanting you to be able to accomplish your tasks in a timely manner, with safety. Good luck with your search.
I am very appreciative of all the posts and input in this thread.

You and another member (or two) have mentioned pick-up and delivery of the tractor. For both the purchase and maintenance. While I still think I need a trailer, perhaps I can put-off the trailer purchase for the moment and buy one in another 3-6 months.

You guys are great to so willingly offer expertise in such a friendly manner. And most of my friends around here were not getting into the numbers of "weight-lifting capacity-implement size". Which is what I like to look at. I knew there was a reasonably scientific "way of figuring" exactly how much tractor is required, but could not previously find that information on-line.

Lifting those bales will size your tractor. My 2008 Mahindra 5525 (55 hp engine, 45 hp pto, 2WD, 8F/2R gear tranny partially synchronized, power steering) has the ML250 baler with a 6-ft wide bucket, skid steer quick attach option to switch from the bucket to other compatible implements and has 2950 lb lift capacity at the pins to 10.5 ft height. The tractor with the FEL and loaded rear tires weighs about 7000 lb. Cost new: $19K.

Something this size with a shuttle shift transmission, 4WD (possibly) and a cab (possibly) would work fine for you and would cost in the $30K range new.

Good luck
Gracias.

I'm really, really hoping to find a pre-owned, low-hour, well-maintained tractor that meets my criteria. My cow pastures are still green and growing, so I've got about a month or so to find a very good deal. I can always pick up a tractor on Tractorhouse dot com. In general 40-50 hp tractors that meet all the other criteria laid out in this thread cost around 15-17K. Still a significant savings over the original 23-30K brand-new dealer prices.

I'll definitely keep this thread updated and let you guys know what I end up purchasing.

I might even have a question or two (or ten) after I acquire this tractor. ;)
 
   / Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie.... #50  
Can always come to edge of hay field and run temp. electric fence.
 

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