Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie....

[MtnViewRanch]

Agree except for the typo. DK40

Hey, H, K at least there in the alphabet somewhere. The link still worked-works. :thumbsup:

 

[jaydee325]

Disclaimer: I bought my first CUT this spring, so I don't have a lot of experience to draw on.

I'm going to make a different recommendation.

Take your farm details and property list to each of your dealers and let them make a recommendation.

When I was shopping this past spring, every dealer I talked to asked me what I needed to do. In the end, I went with my gut (there was lots of influence from this site) and ultimately went one size bigger than where most of the dealers recommended.

I don't think I would have been disappointed going with the dealer recommendations (they were all pretty close). But it is satisfying that the tractor I ended up with exceeds my expectations.

Dealers don't want their customers disappointed in their purchase. So if you go one size up, I'm pretty sure you will end up with a very capable tractor.:thumbsup:

 

[Shawn B]

50 HP 4WD with loader would be just fine in my opinion. You can run a 6' mower with out a problem and 1200 to 1250# shouldn't be any problem. In a NH that would be a boomer 50, but if you have an LS dealer around they make that boomer 50 it would be an LS4047, less money larger loader capacity, same tractor and if I am not mistaken LS just started 0% financing I think.

Excellent advice. Just checked, LS dealer about 60 miles away. I think I shall visit them on Monday.

I'd look for a base machine that weighs 3,500lbs, not including FEL, 40HP minimum, 2K+ lift on the FEL, and an HST transmission (very handy when doing loader work, or mowing/brush hogging).

As far as brand goes, realize that some big names aren't making their own compact tractors now. For example, a NH Boomer 35/40/50 and corresponding Case/IH Farmall B models are actually an LS R3039/4041/4047 respectively....but NH and Case charge much more (like $8K).

A lot of companies are offering 0% financing right now, which helps a lot...some even up to 84 months (I just saw that LS is offering this).

I wouldn't go any smaller than a 6' finish mower, and brush cutter, with that size tractor, and that much land.

The good thing is that you can go to any of the brands you mentioned (including a few more like Yanmar or LS) and get a machine that will fill the bill perfectly....you'd be hard-pressed to find a bad one in the bunch.

Exactly what I was looking for on information. Specifics on what will do what I need to get done.

I've noticed the weight differences on tractors and understand leverage. 1,200 pounds on the end of a long arm is a lot of leverage to lift rear tires.

As mentioned above, I'm gonna go visit LS on Monday (or Tuesday).

It is difficult to follow GManBart.

You may as well focus in on your hay bale requirements. Handling 1,250 pounds and stacking two bales high on a trailer is your minimum requirement.

I recommend 50-hp to 70-hp, four-wheel-drive and concur in a tractor weight of 3,400 to 4,400 pounds.

In Kubota that puts you in the 'M/MX' range with a LA844 loader = 1,874 pounds lift, full height, when new or a LA1154 loader = 2,535 pounds lift, full height, when new.

Lifting heavy loads with an FEL is when people topple their tractors, especially light tractors. More tractor weight provides more stability than less tractor weight.

While you might be able to lift a bale without a counterbalance mounted on the three point hitch...DON'T DO IT. The rear end will be light without a counterbalance and should you drop a front wheel into a hole, or rut, or turn downhill, over you will go.

It may be difficult to follow GManbart, but you did very well indeed.

Appreciate the additional information greatly.

Check out LS or Kioti, Say The DK-40 or 50. Don't see why you would need a 70 HP machine unless you were Haying.

A buddy has a 55-horse Kioti he loves. Got a dealer in Lufkin, TX which is reasonably close.

I would think the smallest Kubota you could get by with would by an L4600 and that may still be reasonably priced. Larger, heavier tractors would probably make the job easier for you, but you could probably use something in the 40hp and up range.

I have an L3800 and I believe round bales would be at the very top of my specs either on the 3ph or loader (and maybe over on the loader).

Again, great info.

 

[IslandTractor]

With regard to ballast, there are lots of threads discussing the options and pros and cons. My simple answer would be to either always have a heavy implement on the back (heavy Boxblade, mower, backhoe) or a dedicated 3pt ballast box or to just load the tires. I wouldn't load the tires if you want to trailer with your current trailer as you are already on the heavy side with any 40+HP tractor. If you get a bigger towing rig then loading the tires is the easiest, cheapest and most convenient way to add ballast. Doesn't interfere with maneuverability like a big mower does either.

 

[Shawn B]

Is your trailer capable of hauling 7K of payload, or is that the combined GVW? My tractor weighs 3800lbs, the loader is 1100lbs, the bucket weighs 300lbs, and my standard counterweight is 1350lbs....that will just squeeze on a 10K GVW trailer with a little room to spare.

Well...

Now I may have to upgrade my trailer requirements. I was *hoping* I would not need a bigger trailer and possibly a bigger vehicle than my Tahoe to tow it.

I have noticed that the trailers generally have two (2) 3500 pound axles, then the next jump-up uses two (2) 5,400 pound axles. I may have to budget more money towards a stronger trailer.

I'd have to say that for the $23K, I'd be looking hard at the Kioti DK40HST or the LS R4041H or even the R4047H.

Just my :2cents: that I happened to find today.

Exactly the products I went and looked at on-line a few minutes ago.

I did not have my bank financing in place, it is in place as of end of business today, nor did I know exactly what I needed till this thread.

But...I just missed a 2010 Kioti DK45, loader, bushhog, 190-hours, combo in Craigslist. $11,500.00. Called the guy earlier this evening, already sold. Alas, another good deal should pop up in the next 30-days. I can pounce on the next one.

Take your farm details and property list to each of your dealers and let them make a recommendation.

When I was shopping this past spring, every dealer I talked to asked me what I needed to do. In the end, I went with my gut (there was lots of influence from this site) and ultimately went one size bigger than where most of the dealers recommended.

I don't think I would have been disappointed going with the dealer recommendations (they were all pretty close). But it is satisfying that the tractor I ended up with exceeds my expectations.

Dealers don't want their customers disappointed in their purchase. So if you go one size up, I'm pretty sure you will end up with a very capable tractor.:thumbsup:

Very good advice.

The Mahindra guy took his time with me, very nice sales-guy and dealership, and he listened to all my needs and pointed me at the 4035.

Which actually lines up very well with the advice in this thread. Weight, hp, lifting capability, all on track.



Arlen and Murphy and everyone else who graced me with your knowledge and expertise, thank you gentlemen.

Perhaps the nicest and most informative initial thread/posts I have ever received on a forum. I required third-party unbiased expertise. You definitely delivered.

I knew when Searching on TBN that plenty of you guys knew your stuff. It was readily apparent.

Like most folks, I have a bit of anxiety over making the correct decision on large purchases. I do a lot of research before I buy anything, drives my wifey nuts.

 

[Shawn B]

With regard to ballast, there are lots of threads discussing the options and pros and cons. My simple answer would be to either always have a heavy implement on the back (heavy Boxblade, mower, backhoe) or a dedicated 3pt ballast box or to just load the tires. I wouldn't load the tires if you want to trailer with your current trailer as you are already on the heavy side with any 40+HP tractor. If you get a bigger towing rig then loading the tires is the easiest, cheapest and most convenient way to add ballast. Doesn't interfere with maneuverability like a big mower does either.

Thanks to you too sir.

Excellent insight. Makes total sense. I'll search out the threads for more reading on appropriate ballast.

My learning-curve on this ranch has been nearly a vertical line for the last few years. Which continues with this whole new universe called "tractors."

Really glad I joined this site, it gives me terrific peace-of-mind that I can search for and/or ask for answers from knowledgeable unbiased folks.

 

[freewookie]

About my favorite attachment goes on the FEL: Ratchet Rake @ $400 You can use RR for minor grading on your road and RR is the berries for tearing out brush and piling brush. THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH A USED DIESEL TRACTOR IF WELL MAINTAINED. Ratchet Rake Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvinkbW8Z90

I gotta have one of those!

 

[econometrics]

Shawn, why are you taking trailering the tractor into consideration? Do you foresee yourself moving the tractor often in the future?

The reason I ask is because this is usually something that people really overestimate - how often they need to trailer their equipment. I personally have tried to talk myself into upgrading my 2007 Silverado 1500 to a 2500HD numerous times. However, I have trailered my tractor TWICE this year. And it was to mow 2-3 acres of pasture for a friend.

I say all this to say that you should not limit yourself on tractor size with the possibility of trailering it in mind. If you're an average tractor owner, 98% of your tractor usage will be on your property, and will not require movement via truck/trailer. It is also always possible to rent a truck / trailer combo (or do what I do and bum one from the in laws! ) to move your tractor if you need to.

You sound a lot like me, honestly. Very detailed and research-driven to make sure you think of EVERYTHING before you pull the purchase trigger. (My wife loathes this about me at times, too. )

My $0.02 is that you would be most happy in the long run with at least a 50-70hp tractor. I say this as someone who just upgraded my 50hp JD 5103 to a 75hp JD 5075E because the 50hp 5103 was not doing everything I wanted it to. I have 100 acres, but only about 15-18 of that is NOT in the woods. So it sounds like you have a similar (if not larger) operation to me.

BTW, I just bought my new 5075E open-station with almost every option JD could put on it, and took the 0% for 60mo for now. I think my pmt is $450ish.

Best of luck!

 

[Xfaxman]

I think I am losing my mind. Trying to figure out how much tractor do I require? :confused2:

Farm Details and Property.

* I have had, and will have, immense burn piles to deal with. I'm talking burn piles that are 2,000 square feet and 20 feet high. Some logs in there that are 36" in diameter. The FEL and tractor will be helping me to tend those burn piles.

Any help, expertise, or insight is very much appreciated.

Be careful burning piles that large, I had a smaller one that I burned this summer.


I noticed smoke coming from a dead tree south of the driveway, 150' away.


Called the volunteer fire dept. to put it out, so that I could push it over, down the hill.

The Fire Chief said the radiant heat above the fire is what started this one burning.
There were two dead limbs on other trees close by that were burning also.

Had to cut off some branches that were caught on other trees, so that the Versahandler could pull it out.


Picked it up and took it across the driveway, it will be the start of the next burn pile.

 

[econometrics]

Be careful burning piles that large, I had a smaller one that I burned this summer.

Whew, this is exactly why I try to CHIP as much of my brush as possible. Burn piles freak me out. Especially since my property has about 75 acres of woods, and a lot of it pine. And we know what comes with pines... pine needles. And those babies are flammable!

I keep my piles pretty small, too, and just push more brush in when the fire starts to quell down a bit.

Good advice, and example, Xfaxman! Glad that didn't end up in a wildfire for you. Whew!