Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie....

[Shawn B]

Shawn, why are you taking trailering the tractor into consideration? Do you foresee yourself moving the tractor often in the future?

The reason I ask is because this is usually something that people really overestimate - how often they need to trailer their equipment. I personally have tried to talk myself into upgrading my 2007 Silverado 1500 to a 2500HD numerous times. However, I have trailered my tractor TWICE this year. And it was to mow 2-3 acres of pasture for a friend.

I say all this to say that you should not limit yourself on tractor size with the possibility of trailering it in mind. If you're an average tractor owner, 98% of your tractor usage will be on your property, and will not require movement via truck/trailer. It is also always possible to rent a truck / trailer combo (or do what I do and bum one from the in laws! ) to move your tractor if you need to.

You sound a lot like me, honestly. Very detailed and research-driven to make sure you think of EVERYTHING before you pull the purchase trigger. (My wife loathes this about me at times, too. )

You are right. About the trailer and detailed research driven.

Aside from getting it home, I don't see the tractor off my property except for any repairs. Which I hope are few and far between. I would prefer to do all the general basic maintenance-stuff myself. (So it is perfect. LOL)

I could borrow a trailer from my bookkeepers husband no issues. He and I are buddies and he has a couple honkin' trailers and a new F250.

I see myself needing a trailer for:

1) Getting this tractor/implements home.

2) Taking my 2,450 pound, sports car-low, 21-year old automobile (my baby) to a convention and/or track once a year.

3) Taking my Kubota ZG227 zero turn to Kubota for any necessary repairs.

4) Moving general stuff around my farm. Dirt, felled/trimmed tree debris to burn piles, fencing materials, whatever needs "moving over yonder."


I was *hoping* an 18-foot, dual 3,500-pound axle, car hauler or pipe-top trailer would suffice for all of the above. Most car-haulers have those built-in "sockets" for 2x4 wood sides to be inserted. I could build those no problems, pop them in or out, store them in my shed or barn.

My $0.02 is that you would be most happy in the long run with at least a 50-70hp tractor. I say this as someone who just upgraded my 50hp JD 5103 to a 75hp JD 5075E because the 50hp 5103 was not doing everything I wanted it to. I have 100 acres, but only about 15-18 of that is NOT in the woods. So it sounds like you have a similar (if not larger) operation to me.

BTW, I just bought my new 5075E open-station with almost every option JD could put on it, and took the 0% for 60mo for now. I think my pmt is $450ish.

Best of luck!

I was just looking at this, which happens to be in my neck of the woods.

John Deere Tractor Packages at Fosters Farm

That $433/mo is very do-able. Brand new gear has it's appeal.

On the other hand, this dude still has not pulled his Craigslist ad, even though he sold this Kioti tractor.

Kioti ds4510 tractor

That is one very appealing deal I just barely missed.

Be careful burning piles that large, I had a smaller one that I burned this summer.

I noticed smoke coming from a dead tree south of the driveway, 150' away.

Called the volunteer fire dept. to put it out, so that I could push it over, down the hill.

The Fire Chief said the radiant heat above the fire is what started this one burning.
There were two dead limbs on other trees close by that were burning also.

Had to cut off some branches that were caught on other trees, so that the Versahandler could pull it out.

Picked it up and took it across the driveway, it will be the start of the next burn pile.

Ahem...the volunteer fire department saved my *** last summer when I set a small pasture on fire.

I agree.

When I do the big ones, I wait until it has been, and is raining. Everything really soaked.

I really should be doing smaller piles, and more of them. Still after a huge rain, and a couple hundred feet from the edges of my pastures.

Whew, this is exactly why I try to CHIP as much of my brush as possible. Burn piles freak me out. Especially since my property has about 75 acres of woods, and a lot of it pine. And we know what comes with pines... pine needles. And those babies are flammable!

I keep my piles pretty small, too, and just push more brush in when the fire starts to quell down a bit.

Good advice, and example, Xfaxman! Glad that didn't end up in a wildfire for you. Whew!

Advice noted gentlemen.

My learning-curve out here has been a vertical line for the last few years.

Sometimes I feel quite overwhelmed to be honest. "OK, I have to do and/or buy X, and know less than nothing about X."

I sound like a broken record, but thanks for all the input/advice/expertise.

 

[grm61]

If you buy new, it seems to be a common practice that the dealer delivers the tractor to you.

 

[econometrics]

You are right. About the trailer and detailed research driven.

Aside from getting it home, I don't see the tractor off my property except for any repairs. Which I hope are few and far between. I would prefer to do all the general basic maintenance-stuff myself. (So it is perfect. LOL)

I could borrow a trailer from my bookkeepers husband no issues. He and I are buddies and he has a couple honkin' trailers and a new F250.

I see myself needing a trailer for:

1) Getting this tractor/implements home.

2) Taking my 2,450 pound, sports car-low, 21-year old automobile (my baby) to a convention and/or track once a year.

3) Taking my Kubota ZG227 zero turn to Kubota for any necessary repairs.

4) Moving general stuff around my farm. Dirt, felled/trimmed tree debris to burn piles, fencing materials, whatever needs "moving over yonder."


I was *hoping* an 18-foot, dual 3,500-pound axle, car hauler or pipe-top trailer would suffice for all of the above. Most car-haulers have those built-in "sockets" for 2x4 wood sides to be inserted. I could build those no problems, pop them in or out, store them in my shed or barn.

You said you had a Tahoe? What's the tow rating on that? 7500lbs?

An 18' pipe trailer with at least 5K axles would do you just fine. Even if you bought that 5045D with a FEL, you could pull that with your Tahoe if you really needed to. I wouldn't make a daily exercise of it, and I would definitely get a trailer with some good trailer brakes, too. But that Chevy would pull a 5K tractor (which is about what the 5045D is with the FEL and bucket).

Keep us posted with what you decide.

 

[foreman Etexas]

I am going to suggest something around 45hp and up,with 4wd. Kubota MX5100/M5140,Mahindra 4530/5010/5035,JD 5045E/5055E just few model #s. You can always ask baler to bale you smaller bales and use a smaller unit, like the 4035 you looked at and still run a 6ft cutter.

 

[Shawn B]

If you buy new, it seems to be a common practice that the dealer delivers the tractor to you.

Well now, that is news to me. Thank you sir.

You said you had a Tahoe? What's the tow rating on that? 7500lbs?

An 18' pipe trailer with at least 5K axles would do you just fine. Even if you bought that 5045D with a FEL, you could pull that with your Tahoe if you really needed to. I wouldn't make a daily exercise of it, and I would definitely get a trailer with some good trailer brakes, too. But that Chevy would pull a 5K tractor (which is about what the 5045D is with the FEL and bucket).

Keep us posted with what you decide.

I had to look it up.

2004*Chevrolet*Tahoe Reviews, Specs and Prices

"7,700 pounds when properly equipped." My towing package is the dealer-installed one. I would therefore *assume* it is 7,700 pounds.

With the correct length ramps, I am *guessing* I would be able to get a sports-car onto the pipe trailer with no issues?

18-foot pipe trailer, 5,400 lb axles, brakes on the trailer, ramps, and I should be able to multi-use this type of trailer(?).

I am going to suggest something around 45hp and up,with 4wd. Kubota MX5100/M5140,Mahindra 4530/5010/5035,JD 5045E/5055E just few model #s. You can always ask baler to bale you smaller bales and use a smaller unit, like the 4035 you looked at and still run a 6ft cutter.

Excellent input.

Currently I must have something that is fully capable to move my current sixty (60) large (1,250 pound) bales. And I am a newbie-operator.

In the future, I've already thought about asking my hay-guy to do my bales at a smaller size. My bales last year (different hay-guy) were about 2/3's the size of my current bales. Maybe 800-pounds (?). I have a small operation and would rather easily/safely make an extra trip or two once a week to supply hay to my cows. Taking them 3-4 medium sized bales instead of two honkin' bales.

I also *think* six-foot cutters will be plenty for my farm. I am still stunned at how much I can mow, and how fast, with my Kubota zero turn mower that has a 54-inch deck. Jumping up to a 72" deck will make a really wide cut-path, even if I am moving slower on a tractor. My two (2) 10-acre cow pastures and my 18-acre hay-field will be pretty quick work in my estimation.

Can't say thanks enough gentlemen.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Well now, that is news to me. Thank you sir.


I had to look it up.

2004*Chevrolet*Tahoe Reviews, Specs and Prices

"7,700 pounds when properly equipped." My towing package is the dealer-installed one. I would therefore *assume* it is 7,700 pounds.

With the correct length ramps, I am *guessing* I would be able to get a sports-car onto the pipe trailer with no issues?

18-foot pipe trailer, 5,400 lb axles, brakes on the trailer, ramps, and I should be able to multi-use this type of trailer(?).




Excellent input.

Currently I must have something that is fully capable to move my current sixty (60) large (1,250 pound) bales. And I am a newbie-operator.

In the future, I've already thought about asking my hay-guy to do my bales at a smaller size. My bales last year (different hay-guy) were about 2/3's the size of my current bales. Maybe 800-pounds (?). I have a small operation and would rather easily/safely make an extra trip or two once a week to supply hay to my cows. Taking them 3-4 medium sized bales instead of two honkin' bales.


I would spray for weeds on all the pasture and let the cattle do the mowing. Get what hay need,if thats one cutting good deal,maybe sell your second if a market,then still allow for your hay meadow to grow and turn your cattle into it during winter,,they can eat the tall dead grass,no need to mow,may have to clean it up some the following spring,depending on what type grass your growing. For 15head I would only put out 2 bales at a time,so they are not getting a lot and not eating it down,before gets weathered and a lot of waste. But two keeps the fighting down,but if have them seperated probably just do one to both groups,I don't know how your set up. I don't only feed hay,I put out 20%cubes couple times week and minerals/salt stay all year. I like to un-roll my hay but sometimes don't have the time to feed everyday and ground may be to wet for that but it sure saves on waste.
I know you have the hay to move what you got already but the lift on the 3pt on even a smaller hp unit will move them and loader will lift them,maybe not that good but get you by until all fed and move to the smaller bales. I think the Kubota L4600/mx4700 would do everything, but that's the minimum I would say,if trying to get done with smallest possible. Its not really all about HP but the size and weight of the tractor. Like pulling with the Tahoe you can really load it down and will probably move it or would you like to work in a safer work range and that's why suggest the larger tractors,even up to the 7060 or JD 5075.
I like my 18ft car hauler over a pipe top for these reason. Side loads better,hauling car can open the doors/dove tail so don't high center,over all width makes for a better pull.
That's my old M5040 moving 5x6 bales

 

[bilrus61]

You can get by very well without a finishing mower. Use your ZTR around the house and for the bigger stuff use your bushhog. A bushhog can make stuff look pretty darn good if you keep the blades in good shape. Take the money you budgeted for the finishing mower and put it on the tractor/loader or a 8 foot bushhog would be my best advice. Just too much trouble taking implements on and off every week. You'll end up mowing with the ZTR and just the bushhog I think.......Look for a M series Kubota used on Craigslist. Check and see if you can find a M5040/M5140 or a M6040. The loaders should do what you want and they are cheaper than the 7040. Mowing a 20 acre pasture with a 6 foot bushhog takes a LONG time. Might want to think about a 8 foot. My Landpride 8 foot mows very nice and clean. I have a SCAG Cheetah ZTR, it and the 8 foot Landpride keeps the farm looking great. If you have cows grazing it you might not need a bushhog at all..........

 

[Shawn B]

Foreman and Bilrus, thanks for the input, I'm gonna reply tomorrow.

I'm beat from driving to the Kioti dealer in Texas. I think it was closer to 70 miles or so. Got back a half hour ago.

I don't think I posted the Mahindra numbers yet, and here's the Kioti numbers as well.

Mahindra 4025: $23,100.00 0% 72 months

Mahindra 3535: $23,150 Uh...I think 0% 72 months. I can double check tomorrow.

Mahindra 4035: $23,500 0% 72 months, $21,700 2.99% 60 months, or $21,700 3.99% 61-84 months.

The 4025 is a sliding-mesh tranny (only), and 3535 is shuttle (only), and I *think* those number for the 4035 are for shuttle. I can double-check tomorrow, and ask what the 4035HST costs.

Mahindra required 10% down.

Kioti numbers from my local dealer.

Kioti DK40SE: $22,040

Kioti DK40SE HST(C): $23,545

Kioti DK45SE: $23,995

Kioti DK45SE HST(C): $24,540

All at 3.45% over 72 months.

 

[mikehaugen]

Are those with loaders?

 

[GreenWannabe]

A couple of observations I didn't see mentioned.

First, I would select the implement sizes and capacities you need to accomplish the most of your work (the 80% rule). My buddies convinced me last year to get a 6' brush hog to cut my 12 acres of former hay field, rather than the 5 footer I thought would do. They told me it would take me a long time to cut it with a five foot unit, and I decidd their arguments held merit. Twenty acres to mow is a lot more. How often do you want to mow it? If every month, you may want a wider unit My Kioti DK45SE is not recommended for more than six feet, nor is the DK50SE (same tractor, more horsepower but not more weight). These tractors are compact tractors, they are not like the same horsepower tractors from thirty years ago which weighed twice as much.

Second is FEL lift capacity. IIRC, the Kioti and Mahindra both are rated at the pivot point. Lifting a bale where the center of gravity is three feet forward of the pivot point reduces the lift capacity quite a bit. As an example, a loader rated at 2368 lbs at the pivot pin can only lift 1742 lbs if the load is centered about 20 inches forward of the pivot point. Three feet forward will reduce it much more. And for any really heavy lift like round bales, you need not only a counterweight on the three point hitch (a heavy one, like 800 lbs) but also filled rear tires, further adding to the weight of the tractor. I estimate the weight of my DK45SE to be about 7500 lbs, with filled tires and 810 lbs of counterweight. For round bales, I would want a lift capacity at the pivot pins at least 2 1/2 times the weight of the bale.

Once you know for sure what size cutter you want, and how heavy your bales are, they will pretty much dictate your tractor needs. Compact tractors are not menat to handle cutters much bigger than six foot models, and are probably marginal for large round bales. I would be looking at utility tractors in the 55 to 70 horsepower range, which should open up the used market for you considerably. There is a lot of value in many loder tractors, but you do need someone who is knowledgeable to evaluate each one that you are interested in. You can always hire somenone with a roll-off wrecker truck to bring it home for you.

A final note - my dealer tells me that he sends out his rolloff to bring tractors in for repair when they need it, but the owner can't bring it in. I do expect to pay for that service, but I know his rates are reasonable - not what a normal wrecker operator would charge, even though his equipment is larger than most wreckers. The reason he is my dealer is that in comparison to the other dealers in my area with tractors that eventually made my short list, he was ten grand cheaper for an equal configuration.

Please be aware that I am not trying to be a naysayer on a compact tractor in the 40-50 horsepower range, that's what worked for me. I am wanting you to be able to accomplish your tasks in a timely manner, with safety. Good luck with your search.