Antifreeze- is any type OK?

[fieldserviceengineer]

FleetServiceEngineer THANKS FOR THE INPUT.

Can I ask a question like this?

This is the product I wish to use:
Fleet Charge Antifreeze

I would like to use this in:

Kubota Diesel engines from 2 cylinder thru 4 cylinder (5 different engines)
Volkswagen Diesel TDI engine 2004 model year.
Ford (International) Powerstroke year 2000
Case Diesel 580K engine.



1) What would your opinion be?
2) This antifreeze is PURPLE, would other regular Green std/low silicate antifreezes mix with it in a pinch?
3) Would I be able to use the Ford SCA additive fw-16 to supplement this as required by test strip results?
4) What would the correct test strips be? Certain Manufacturer????


I've read everything in this post and appreciate all the material supplied, but after all the discussion, I'd still like someone to answer these 4 questions.

thanks

Frank

Fleet Charge will be fine. It can be mixed with any coolant. Green low silicate like Shellzone is no problem BUT you will need to test the coolant for supplemental coolant additive level and maintain at about 2400 PPM of nitrite using the Penray test strips or at 2.4 units per gallon if you use the Fleetguard CC2602 test kit. Sure, you can use Ford FW-16 (actually it is Fleetguard DCA4). If you use the FW16 the CC2602 test strips will give a more accurate answer on the chemical additive since it is made of nitrite and molybdate. The Fleetguard test strips measure both additives to arrive at the SCA units per gallon answer. I am assuming you would not need to test much so do not buy their CC2602 package of 50. Instead get the CC2602A four pack of individual wrapped strips and reference card.

 

[frankc]

THANK YOU. I know exactly what I need to do now!

 

[Donavon]

Fieldservicengineer, great write up. Thank you!!

 

[horses2]

being in the auto/hd truck biz for my career, Fieldserviceengineer is right on the mark. Simply put, for Diesel engines, just use an ELC that meets the Cat standard and protect your engine. You can get Zerex HD ELC at any NAPA store. My local NAPA orderd a case for me late in the afternoon and had it the next morning. I use it on my NH tractors and 7.3 Powerstroke. You do have to do a COMPLETE FLUSH. The benefit to a quality ELC is no checking SCA additives, and at the prescibed interval, you can add the extender and keep on going.
I paid $16/gal for Zerex HD ELC, and it will be cheaper in the long run.

 

[fieldserviceengineer]

The benefit to a quality ELC is no checking SCA additives, and at the prescibed interval, you can add the extender and keep on going.

I would not recommend 'not testing the SCA level'. If you use the Zerex product or similar OAT coolant, it will still rely mostly on the nitrite and molybdate additive for cavitation pitting protection. All of the OAT coolants like Zerex such as CAT ELC, Shell Rotella ELC, Chevron Delo ELC are in the same category as they all use the same organic acid inhibitor but rely heavily on the conventional inhibitors nitrite and molybdate. If they are consumed as they will be by engine operation, you will be left with a coolant that would then be much more like Dexcool. Dexcool has very low cavitation pitting protection. If you want an OAT coolant that has pitting protection from the OAT additives, then you need Old World Final Charge. However, it cannot be easily tested. Using it requires careful attention to what the system is refilled with if coolant levels get low. Another very similar OAT coolant (Final Charge) is Fleetguard ES Optimax. It is Final Charge with the addition of nitrite, molybdate and a quality scale inhibitor. Most OAT coolants do not have sufficient scale inhibitor additives and do experience scale formation on hot surfaces in the engine cylinder heads and upper cylinder regions..

 

[Soundguy]

This very issue is why I like regualr approved coolant, plus the addative that CNH sells.. FP15 I believe is the electrolysis/cavitation modifier.. that and swizzle test strips.

soundguy

 

[Matt_Jr]

Just an FYI, don't ever use plain tap water with the long life coolants unless it says you can on the jug of antifreeze. The additive package contains organic acid technology that "attack salt and calcium", and will die if any chlorinated water is added to the system.

 

[Matt_Jr]

Oh, another thing. Don't ever do radiator drain and fills either. When the additive package in antifreeze wears out, it becomes part of the salt and calcium buildup in the bottom of your radiator, engine block, and scale everywhere in between. If you just add new coolant, the additives just "attack" the old build up in the radiator, block, and scale, then are not suspended in the coolant any more and become part of the same problem. Reverse flushing with chemical flush kit is the only way to go. It goes against the scale, breaking it down and suspending it, allowing it to be flushed out.

 

[Soundguy]

Just an FYI, don't ever use plain tap water with the long life coolants unless it says you can on the jug of antifreeze. The additive package contains organic acid technology that "attack salt and calcium", and will die if any chlorinated water is added to the system.

sounds like city-folk talk... not all 'tap' water is chlorinated..

soundguy

 

[Matt_Jr]

Right on Soundguy. That was city talk. My bad.