Antifreeze- is any type OK?

[Wyatts dad]

Thanks FSE, i had a feeling that would be your response.:thumbsup:

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Well,,,,?

I have not been back to the store to ask so I am "assuming" it does since it is green.

 

[Wyatts dad]

Thanks Gary (FSE) you have been very helpfull.

 

[chatconn]

I have a x575 JD and a x738 JD one has GREEN antifreeze the other has YELLOW antifreeze
I think I'm going to tractor Supply or maybe call the JD Dealer

 

[3930dave]

The extended life coolants (ELCs) aren't that much more money than the old green stuff, and they work better and last longer.

For my last round on my 3930 and 7.3, I went with Delo ELC, from my local International dealer. You don't need to add SCA either.

Diesel Coolant, Delo Prediluted & Extended Life Antifreeze - Delo - (Canada)

For gas motors, I tend to use Prestone Long Life.... it's rated for something like 250k km and 5 years.

Getting things like silicates out of the newer ELCs tends to be easier on water pump seals.

Rgds, D.

 

[Copperhead]

Ditto. ELC coolants are great in diesels. All commercial heavy diesels are factory filled nowadays with the stuff. it has been shown to prevent wet sleeve liner cavitation far better than traditional coolants. No need to test and add SCA's. In commercial semi trucks, it is good for 600,000 miles, with just a quart or two of extender added at 300,000 miles. You have less coolant related deposits also. I have only been using ELC in all my diesels for the last 10 years. Even the 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel. It is wet sleeved, and I didn't trust the traditional Mopar junk that it was factory filled with.

Now that being said, coolants should be tested periodically. I get test strips made by Penray. It is easy to check the condition of the coolant for both protection characteristics and freeze point concentration. These strips work on traditional coolants and ELC varieties. I test at each oil change on my semi, twice a year in my other stuff.

Amazon.com: The Penray Companies - Power Fleet TS200, Heavy Duty 3-Way Universal Test Strips: Automotive

 

[Kc8ehd]

Be careful of 2EH (2-ethylhexanoic acid) in some antifreeze it can damage seals and hoses .

 

[dennyd]

I know old post right.
I have a farm pro 2425 pre epa, I am having overheating problems
that I never had before.
So I need to flush and then add WHAT kind of coolant?
Can I add green colored Havoline low silicate coolant like I bought, or won't this work in this engine? I wish I would have never read this, I was ready for the deed & less confused then LOL.

 

[big bubba]

OP: just curious. why did you add distilled water to the 50/50 mix?

 

[3930dave]

I know old post right.
I have a farm pro 2425 pre epa, I am having overheating problems
that I never had before.
So I need to flush and then add WHAT kind of coolant?
Can I add green colored Havoline low silicate coolant like I bought, or won't this work in this engine? I wish I would have never read this, I was ready for the deed & less confused then LOL.

Saying Yes would be a bit like telling somebody to go eat Green food....... probably not fatal, but perhaps not the optimal solution.

Colour is what sticks in people's mind, but that is tough to make a call on...... older Green coolant required SCA/DCA additive, and fairly frequent changes (on time limit, which few people bothered to do).

OTOH, if your present coolant is original/sludge, then just about anything will be an improvement.

I'd be tempted to diagnose (only !) with just distilled water, until I had the cause of the overheating nailed down. I say only diagnose, because just-water gives you zero corrosion protection, including to cavitation.

If you can't get a hold of the manufacturer's manual for your tractor, post in the relevant forum on here what engine you have in it - somebody will likely have a listing that will be close enough for coolant spec.

For instance, a CAT engine may have a specific spec that some modern coolants won't meet..... but, all that said...... if I was in a hurry and/or couldn't come up with spec info for the tractor/engine, then on a pre-EPA diesel, I'd just pick whatever modern ELC diesel coolant that was handy and use that.

If I take the time to do the job, I don't want to have to test for SCA needs in the future, and I don't want to change it again in 2 years. But, that's just my preference, YMMV.....

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

OP: just curious. why did you add distilled water to the 50/50 mix?

He might have been using Concentrate ?

Rgds, D.

 

[dennyd]

Saying Yes would be a bit like telling somebody to go eat Green food....... probably not fatal, but perhaps not the optimal solution.

Colour is what sticks in people's mind, but that is tough to make a call on...... older Green coolant required SCA/DCA additive, and fairly frequent changes (on time limit, which few people bothered to do).

OTOH, if your present coolant is original/sludge, then just about anything will be an improvement.

I'd be tempted to diagnose (only !) with just distilled water, until I had the cause of the overheating nailed down. I say only diagnose, because just-water gives you zero corrosion protection, including to cavitation.

If you can't get a hold of the manufacturer's manual for your tractor, post in the relevant forum on here what engine you have in it - somebody will likely have a listing that will be close enough for coolant spec.

For instance, a CAT engine may have a specific spec that some modern coolants won't meet..... but, all that said...... if I was in a hurry and/or couldn't come up with spec info for the tractor/engine, then on a pre-EPA diesel, I'd just pick whatever modern ELC diesel coolant that was handy and use that.

If I take the time to do the job, I don't want to have to test for SCA needs in the future, and I don't want to change it again in 2 years. But, that's just my preference, YMMV.....

Rgds, D.

I read that if I change it every 2 yrs, it's more than likely ok to go ahead and use the green conventional low silicate. That's what the bottles say.

 

[3930dave]

I read that if I change it every 2 yrs, it's more than likely ok to go ahead and use the green conventional low silicate. That's what the bottles say.

10-4, but note that you likely need to add SCA or DCA additive (testing accordingly) to control cavitation corrosion. Read the fine-print on the bottle to check re. SCA use.

That ^ old chemistry can work fine..... it's all we had once Upon a Time, but many (most) didn't bother maintaining the SCA, or even installing it to begin with.

I'm just getting lazier in my olde age ..... for a negligible difference in cost, I'll just use modern OAT dzl coolant on my old stuff, and skip the SCA entirely.

Wishing you a speedy return to a normal operating Temp on that tractor

Rgds, D.

 

[dennyd]

10-4, but note that you likely need to add SCA or DCA additive (testing accordingly) to control cavitation corrosion. Read the fine-print on the bottle to check re. SCA use.

That ^ old chemistry can work fine..... it's all we had once Upon a Time, but many (most) didn't bother maintaining the SCA, or even installing it to begin with.

I'm just getting lazier in my olde age ..... for a negligible difference in cost, I'll just use modern OAT dzl coolant on my old stuff, and skip the SCA entirely.

Wishing you a speedy return to a normal operating Temp on that tractor

Rgds, D.

I'm about convinced the water ways are nothing but gunk. I have to flush it out.
Not to worried about the coolant to much because them Chinese tractors were just run with creek water anyway. The factory must not have worried about cyl cavitation or water wouldn't be mentioned in the shop manual so often. LOL.

 

[Williy]

I have a cummins in my pick;up and was told that
the antifreeze had to be red because the diesel
vibrates different than a gas engine.
Any one hear of this????

willy

a riddle: what has 18 legs and catches flies???

 

[3930dave]

I have a cummins in my pick;up and was told that
the antifreeze had to be red because the diesel
vibrates different than a gas engine.
Any one hear of this????

willy

a riddle: what has 18 legs and catches flies???

Google cavitation corrosion in diesels, it will tell you most of what you need to know.

Rgds, D.

 

[Egon]

Depends on if it’s a parent lock or sleeved block.

 

[PILOON]

Couple of years ago following reading a similar discussion to this one I decided to do a 'flush' and service on my CUT.
Well, I selected a flush product, rinsed and filled with new antifreeze.
Perhaps it was just bad luck but troubles followed.
Mid winter, (nice and cold) my block heater gave out and that was followed by my radiator cap failing. (Internal cap spring simply was corroded away.)
Was it simply 'old age' or did the coolant contain something that ate the coolant cap spring and my block heater as well?
Heater was a bear to change @ -25 deg and it took forever to find a proper rad cap.
OK, all well that ends well I guess and so far no more troubles.

 

[3930dave]

Coolant problems, never fun, but doing the work @ -25 , bad day indeed....

Any reputable flush product shouldn't give grief, assuming corrosion isn't holding something critical together, and you throw away your man-card and follow the instructions to the letter....

These Cummins products aren't badly priced, even in Canuck-land....

https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/lt36625.pdf

(Fleetguard Restore/+ , if the link dies....)

Rgds, D.