normde2001
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So, you would rather have that stuff in your radiator than on a screen that is easily brushed off.
Any Radiator Screen Suggestions for YM240??
- Thread starter bassfishrman
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kenmac
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I don 't have a screen on my tractor and bush hogged 10 acres last weekend with no problems, but I did blow out the radiator when I finished.I had rather blow out the radiator at the end of the day, than to have to stop every 20 mins. or so and clean out the screen.The screen on mine was too fine & would stop up to often.
The honest answer to your question norm is in this case yes,,,for the same reason the last gentleman mentioned,,,I couldn't mow for an hour before it over heated with screen in it,,and its not good to over heat your motor,head gasket/head warpage,etc,,with screen door screen out,,it doesn't over heat in the 2-3 hrs that I mow at one time,,and it blows out really easy if you got the compressor and one of those long air guns,[10 min job at most],,another thing,,we all just assume that are temp. gage is correct,,if it would quit working or be off,on one of those over heats,you could blow her up before you relized it.
Now,if you ain't mowing tall,thick grass and such,,than you won't have this problem,if I'm not mowing,I don't have to blow it out for maybe 15-20 hrs,maybe not even than,,just depends on what you are doing... the thing
Now,if you ain't mowing tall,thick grass and such,,than you won't have this problem,if I'm not mowing,I don't have to blow it out for maybe 15-20 hrs,maybe not even than,,just depends on what you are doing... the thing
dmccue
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I have a YM2000. basically a YM240, and noticed references in the operating manual about a radiator screen. I learned that the part from Yanmar Japan would be around $50.00.
I decided to fabricate my own screen using regular window screen, aluminum channel, and plastic corner brackets. To better match the radiator, I painted the aluminum with black spray paint.
This has worked well for over a year now. I have attached a couple of pictures of the screen and a picture of my tractor.
I decided to fabricate my own screen using regular window screen, aluminum channel, and plastic corner brackets. To better match the radiator, I painted the aluminum with black spray paint.
This has worked well for over a year now. I have attached a couple of pictures of the screen and a picture of my tractor.
dmccue
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dmccue
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dmccue
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Soundguy
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( putting window screen over the rock shield,to stop all small stuff,,,sounded like a good idea to me,,so,,,I did it,,,after brushoging in high grass for about an hour,,it started over heating)</font>
Well, that's part of maintenance. You have to check that prefilter. Small fuzzy debri plugs it the fastest. My NH manual does state to check hourly, or more, if you see the temp rise.
When i was mowing a pasture of 7' tall dog fennel and ragweed, I had to stop every 30 mins as my pre-fitler would collect a 1/4 inch of 'lint'.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( jinmas are basic tractors,,don't know much about air flow and all that,,maybe a more modern tractor would have different air flow,, )</font>
Same concept.. could have a pusher fan.. but most don't. The pre-filter isn't new. Tractors from the 30's had them. The 'like-original' repro pre filter on my 2N has holes smaller than 1/4" and the 2 NH's I've had all use the window screen type pre-filter.
It's alot easier to pull that prefilter and clean it off with your hand while out in the field, than having to let your tractor cool, or limp it back home to use the air compressor to blow out a clogged up filter.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( my toyota pickup has a raditiator,,its got about 140,000 miles,,its never had its raditiator blowed out )</font>
I doubt you hitch a mower to your toyota and drive it around in the pasture and dust and mow with it. If you did.. you might notice some differences...
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( now,,sound guy what base are you on??? )</font>
Thingy... admittedly.. you are on your first tractor. There are people here with years and decades of tractor experience.. and many tractors under their belt. we/they are trying to give you / original poster some help full advice. I'll give you the benefit of doubt for now...Run that line by me again in a decade or so and 8 tractors later, and I'll reserve judgement on taking offense at the tone of your statement until then.
Soundguy
Well, that's part of maintenance. You have to check that prefilter. Small fuzzy debri plugs it the fastest. My NH manual does state to check hourly, or more, if you see the temp rise.
When i was mowing a pasture of 7' tall dog fennel and ragweed, I had to stop every 30 mins as my pre-fitler would collect a 1/4 inch of 'lint'.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( jinmas are basic tractors,,don't know much about air flow and all that,,maybe a more modern tractor would have different air flow,, )</font>
Same concept.. could have a pusher fan.. but most don't. The pre-filter isn't new. Tractors from the 30's had them. The 'like-original' repro pre filter on my 2N has holes smaller than 1/4" and the 2 NH's I've had all use the window screen type pre-filter.
It's alot easier to pull that prefilter and clean it off with your hand while out in the field, than having to let your tractor cool, or limp it back home to use the air compressor to blow out a clogged up filter.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( my toyota pickup has a raditiator,,its got about 140,000 miles,,its never had its raditiator blowed out )</font>
I doubt you hitch a mower to your toyota and drive it around in the pasture and dust and mow with it. If you did.. you might notice some differences...
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( now,,sound guy what base are you on??? )</font>
Thingy... admittedly.. you are on your first tractor. There are people here with years and decades of tractor experience.. and many tractors under their belt. we/they are trying to give you / original poster some help full advice. I'll give you the benefit of doubt for now...Run that line by me again in a decade or so and 8 tractors later, and I'll reserve judgement on taking offense at the tone of your statement until then.
Soundguy
thegreatrandini
Gold Member
Just to add to what you are saying. Every time you blow your radiator out you are bending the little fins.. It is not going to hurt if you do it carefully every so often but........It has to be hard on your radiator to blow it out all the time....Much better to just keep the screen clean!!!!
Soundguy
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( if you got the compressor and one of those long air guns,[10 min job at most],, )</font>
Thingy... so.. how would you manage that with your tractor away from home.
I routinely drive my tractor a few miles downt he road to mow a pasture. no truck.. to trailer.. no air compressor.. etc.
If my prefitler gets plugged.. I slide it out.. brush off with my hand and go.. However many times it takes .
If my radiator were to plug up in the field.. I would have NO way to unplug it.. Id have to wait till it cooled, and then limp home, stopping to let it cool as needed.
That's simply not an option. Being down in a field with no transportation isn't fun. I did that gig last week with a plugged fuel filter... At leas the diesel running all over me kept the ants off /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
In the end.. it is your tractor.. dowhatever to it / with it you want. For general advice to others.. I'd reccomend to use whatever OEM setup came with your tractor as the 'safest' method.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( its not good to over heat your motor,head gasket/head warpage,etc )</font>
That's why you get used to the gauge readings on your tractor.. and as soon as you notice a gauge 'out-of-area' you stop to investigate.
My NH runs at 200 or so ( could be 190.. gauge only has a few numbers... needle runs 1/4" before 212 mark ).. It hits that mark about 5 minutes after startup, and stays there even after hours of heavy mowing. If it climbs from there ( screen plugged), I keep a close enough eye on it to idle it down before it even gets to 212, let alone the 'hot' portion which is another 1/2" down the right side of the dial. The key would be to pay attention to the gauge and correct problems as they begin to start.. not let the gauge climb in to the full'hot' region and risk engine damage. That would be like waiting till after someone died to call the ambulance, instead of calling it as soon as they started having problems.. etc.
Soundguy
Thingy... so.. how would you manage that with your tractor away from home.
I routinely drive my tractor a few miles downt he road to mow a pasture. no truck.. to trailer.. no air compressor.. etc.
If my prefitler gets plugged.. I slide it out.. brush off with my hand and go.. However many times it takes .
If my radiator were to plug up in the field.. I would have NO way to unplug it.. Id have to wait till it cooled, and then limp home, stopping to let it cool as needed.
That's simply not an option. Being down in a field with no transportation isn't fun. I did that gig last week with a plugged fuel filter... At leas the diesel running all over me kept the ants off /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
In the end.. it is your tractor.. dowhatever to it / with it you want. For general advice to others.. I'd reccomend to use whatever OEM setup came with your tractor as the 'safest' method.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( its not good to over heat your motor,head gasket/head warpage,etc )</font>
That's why you get used to the gauge readings on your tractor.. and as soon as you notice a gauge 'out-of-area' you stop to investigate.
My NH runs at 200 or so ( could be 190.. gauge only has a few numbers... needle runs 1/4" before 212 mark ).. It hits that mark about 5 minutes after startup, and stays there even after hours of heavy mowing. If it climbs from there ( screen plugged), I keep a close enough eye on it to idle it down before it even gets to 212, let alone the 'hot' portion which is another 1/2" down the right side of the dial. The key would be to pay attention to the gauge and correct problems as they begin to start.. not let the gauge climb in to the full'hot' region and risk engine damage. That would be like waiting till after someone died to call the ambulance, instead of calling it as soon as they started having problems.. etc.
Soundguy
