Anyone have problems with the Rollover Link

[Clarke]

What did you have to do to get the pin out?

Cut pin flush with arms with a cut off wheel. Ground the rest of weld and removed pin. Installed new assembly shimmed for the clearance I wanted between the arms and rollover tube welded and cut off excess pin.

sg

 

[Clarke]

I just talked to Ketih. He recommended to try and repair it. I will try welding the crack and adding some plates. Parts are about $180.

Bob,

Trying to fix it is a waste of time it will continue to break and you will most likely end up bending the pin. I know because I did all of above.

sg

 

[BobRip]

Mine broke and I had to replace it...

Bob, I tried welding the crack on mine three times -- adding different types of reinforcement each time -- and all three failed. The bar inside was slightly bent, concentrating the stress in one area...

Replacing it with the larger replacement bar and rollover seems to have fixed it...

Can you describe or show pictures of how you reinforced it. I am about an hour away from completion, so no big deal to finish. Maybe I should do more than I am. Details of your attempts would help.

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

Trying to fix it is a waste of time it will continue to break and you will most likely end up bending the pin. I know because I did all of above.

sg

You are probably right from your description. I will finish what I started and them monitor. Can't hurt but so much.

Everyone, thanks for the input. I now believe I should replace it, but just for the sport, I gotta try this.

Edit: I layed some parts in place to show what I am doing. I am putting two pieces of 3/8 inch metal (2 inches wide) between the arms and then one on each side of the arms.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Just so it has been said, put some sort of shield down where all that grass is at. It is how I caught my PT on fire... Not cleaning before welding...

 

[MossRoad]

Just so it has been said, put some sort of shield down where all that grass is at. It is how I caught my PT on fire... Not cleaning before welding...

Or at least get the video camera rolling before starting. :laughing:

Bob,
That repair looks like it may work. Just be sure to make sure the links all have free movement and your bucket has full range of motion before you weld it solid.

 

[BobRip]

Just so it has been said, put some sort of shield down where all that grass is at. It is how I caught my PT on fire... Not cleaning before welding...

Thanks for that tip. I will also be having some welding mats around. I will clean first of course.

 

[BobRip]

Or at least get the video camera rolling before starting. :laughing:

Bob,
That repair looks like it may work. Just be sure to make sure the links all have free movement and your bucket has full range of motion before you weld it solid.

Thanks Moss. Good idea. I checked it visually, but I will check after tacking them on.

 

[MossRoad]

Thanks Moss. Good idea. I checked it visually, but I will check after tacking them on.

Good. Cycle the bucket to full dump and curl with the bucket lowered all the way.

Then do it again in the middle and then again with the FEL arms all the way up.

The geometry changes as you raise and lower the FEL arms.

Well, the geometry probably actually stays exactly the same, but math is confusing to me. :laughing:

 

[KentT]

Can you describe or show pictures of how you reinforced it. I am about an hour away from completion, so no big deal to finish. Maybe I should do more than I am. Details of your attempts would help.

Bob,

I don't have any pics. Mine was breaking at the outside of the left one of those two flat arms, facing the tractor.

The first time, we simply rewelded it with a heavy bead. The second time, we added a triangular gusset between the arm and the tube. The third time, we added larger gussets, now on both sides of the tube, two on each flat arm.

When I pulled that pin out, it was BADLY worn (even though we'd kept it greased) and bent/bowed about 3/8" or so in the center. The tube was apparently binding on the bent pin, and the hydraulics were so strong that something had to give...

Very large forces are placed on that single rollover point -- for example if you lift the front of the tractor off the ground with the bucket, that entire weight is focused right there on the rollover, and multiplied by the mechanical leverage involved...

 

[BobRip]

Good. Cycle the bucket to full dump and curl with the bucket lowered all the way.

Then do it again in the middle and then again with the FEL arms all the way up.

The geometry changes as you raise and lower the FEL arms.

Well, the geometry probably actually stays exactly the same, but math is confusing to me. :laughing:

I did not realize this. I have finished and tested your concern and promptly bent the rod a little. I now need to trim some metal back.

I also found another crack to the right of the center arms. I welded that up but did not add additional reinforcement.

I have a feeling I will be fixing this again soon, but let's see what happens.

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

I don't have any pics. Mine was breaking at the outside of the left one of those two flat arms, facing the tractor.

The first time, we simply rewelded it with a heavy bead. The second time, we added a triangular gusset between the arm and the tube. The third time, we added larger gussets, now on both sides of the tube, two on each flat arm.

When I pulled that pin out, it was BADLY worn (even though we'd kept it greased) and bent/bowed about 3/8" or so in the center. The tube was apparently binding on the bent pin, and the hydraulics were so strong that something had to give...

Very large forces are placed on that single rollover point -- for example if you lift the front of the tractor off the ground with the bucket, that entire weight is focused right there on the rollover, and multiplied by the mechanical leverage involved...

Oh boy. Sounds like your third try should have done it and is stronger that what I did. Well, we will see what happens. Thanks again for all of the input. I guess more people will realize the value of total replacement soon. Or maybe, my fix will work for years. (Yea, right!)

 

[BobRip]

I cut away some metal from the add on plates to give the rod clearance. It has a small bend in it. Is there any reason I should straighten it?

 

[MossRoad]

I cut away some metal from the add on plates to give the rod clearance. It has a small bend in it. Is there any reason I should straighten it?

I don't think so, unless it is a big bend. As long as it doesn't rub anything else, it should be O.K. If it starts to bend more, then you may think about straightening it.

 

[MossRoad]

Also, with the cracks kind of common on the older units, it really makes you wonder just how much power these little beasts have, doesn't it?

 

[KentT]

I don't think so, unless it is a big bend. As long as it doesn't rub anything else, it should be O.K. If it starts to bend more, then you may think about straightening it.

Mine bent a little, then bent more in use after that. Tried straighening it (heat and hammers) and was never the same -- just kept bending again.

Ended up replacing it when I replaced the rollover... no problems in the 100+ hours since.

 

[KentT]

I cut away some metal from the add on plates to give the rod clearance. It has a small bend in it. Is there any reason I should straighten it?

Yes, do it now or it will only get worse. Try to get it as straight and true as you can.

Simple experiment to illustrate the dynamics. Cut yourself a straight stick of green wood about 30" long or so -- 3/8" to 1/2" in diameter. Push straight down on the end of it, with it braced on something solid. It will be almost impossible for you to bend it.

Now, take a finger and bow it in the middle, just slightly -- then press down on the end. It will bend more, fairly easily. The more you bow it, the easier it will bend...

 

[KentT]

CAVEAT/DISCLAIMER: I was using primarily the mini-hoe, digging stumps and grubbing bushes when I encountered this damage -- both the cracking of the rollover tube and the bending of the rod. Then length of the boom on the mini-hoe magnifies the force applied by the bucket tilt cylinder on the rollover mechanism. If you're doing primarily bucket work, you might be ok, and if you're primarily mowing you're likely even less likely to encounter further problems.

The mini-hoe really stresses the PT, since it is EASY to lift the front of the PT off the ground using that long lever, because of the sensitive hydraulic controls, especially if you're running full throttle to get maximum hydraulic power...

 

[ponytug]

Once the rollover bar gets bent, the forces on the arm will constantly force the pin farther out of alignment. Personally, I'm impressed that you have gotten additional hours out of it after it had been bent initially.

All the best,

Peter

 

[BobRip]

After all of this discussion I am considering additional changes. I am considering welding an angle iron to the tube. I will have to cut out some in the middle of course. The angle iron is strong in all directions, and the forces on the tube can come from all directions. Just thinking out loud. I have not actually done this yet.