Anyone have problems with the Rollover Link

[marrt]

That's interesting. I didn't realize PT was producing cylinders having ball joints with Zerks. They're pretty common elsewhere though.

One question: for ball joints without a zerk, what's the consensus best option for lubrication? The superlube with teflon doesn't seem to have much effect. I always thought PT recommended it just to provide some form of answer to inquires about greasing those joints. As MR pointed out, not many people (no one I've ever seen) grease the ball joints on tractor hitches...and those joints are exposed to a lot of stress. They're viewed as disposable I think and you can but replacements are TSC. Is it really necessary to grease these joints? If so, what about a light penetrating oil/spray? Maybe something synthetic from amsoil or whoever? It would attract dirt. However, there's not much "action" to drive it deeper into the ball joint.

 

[J_J]

I have a spray can of lithium grease that I use on the joints and wipe off the excess.

 

[KentT]

I have a spray can of lithium grease that I use on the joints and wipe off the excess.

Yep... I use the same technique.

 

[MossRoad]

Me, too. I just wipe off any dirt, hold a rag behind the target to stop overspray and spray with spray lube. I do this every 8 hours or so. I also twist the joint and then spray the other side so I get as much as I can.

But as I mentioned, I had the same swivel balls on my 4pt hitch arms on my old IH and I never lubed them once. Perhaps they do not move that much compared to the FEL and steering joints on the PT?

 

[cqaigy2]

Sometimes the spray lithium and sometime i use grease mixed with old gas, putting it on with a paintbrush.

 

[SnowRidge]

One more vote for spray on lithium.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Just an update on this, I spoke to Terry yesterday and he said that the toplink on my PT (and probably some others) is 20" center hole to center hole.

When I get back up north I will have one made out of 1/2 steel plate (You think that is big enough or should I go 3/4")

Carl

 

[ponytug]

Dear Carl,

It is largely about the cross section area, so the relevant second dimension would be 1/2"x2" or something.
(=1sq. in. vs 3/4"x2"=1.5sq. in)

I say largely because you wouldn't find 1/8"x 8" very useful, since it would bend in the thin dimension too easily when under compression.

All the best,

Peter

Just an update on this, I spoke to Terry yesterday and he said that the toplink on my PT (and probably some others) is 20" center hole to center hole.

When I get back up north I will have one made out of 1/2 steel plate (You think that is big enough or should I go 3/4")

Carl

 

[woodlandfarms]

Dear Carl,

It is largely about the cross section area, so the relevant second dimension would be 1/2"x2" or something.
(=1sq. in. vs 3/4"x2"=1.5sq. in)

I say largely because you wouldn't find 1/8"x 8" very useful, since it would bend in the thin dimension too easily when under compression.

All the best,

Peter

Yeah, I am thinking a 2 or 2.5" piece but do you think 1/2" is thick enough or should I try to find a 3/4" piece... I don't think there is much price difference so I am leaning toward 3/4"

 

[J_J]

My top link is 1 in thick. Just cut and drill two pieces of 1/2 and weld together. or have your welder make up something like mine with some extra holes.