Anyone have problems with the Rollover Link

[woodlandfarms]

My top link is 1 in thick. Just cut and drill two pieces of 1/2 and weld together. or have your welder make up something like mine with some extra holes.

Cool. Good idea

 

[ponytug]

Dear Carl,

Perhaps I missed something, but why not cut the old fitting off and use your old one?

All the best,

Peter

Just an update on this, I spoke to Terry yesterday and he said that the toplink on my PT (and probably some others) is 20" center hole to center hole.

When I get back up north I will have one made out of 1/2 steel plate (You think that is big enough or should I go 3/4")

Carl

 

[woodlandfarms]

I have. This will be the 4th one I have replaced. Terry basically said that the 1850 is a mower first then a tractor 2nd. Meaning that the 65 HP engine, 4000lbs of tractor weight are mis matched with the anemic lifting capabilities. I got the sense that I am not the only 1850 owner who has this issue. But that was never said outright. And I am pretty abusive of this tractor.

My biggest concern is that i put this on then damage something really expensive.

 

[ponytug]

You raise a good point. Shear pins get designed in for a reason. Perhaps this is your version of a shear pin. Why not get a couple of top links made, but made to the existing strength? You know that they break first, and you won't break something else, potentially much more expensive. If you beef it up too much, you are just passing the force elsewhere to something that may (will?) be harder to fix.

Just a thought.

All the best,

Peter

I have. This will be the 4th one I have replaced. Terry basically said that the 1850 is a mower first then a tractor 2nd. Meaning that the 65 HP engine, 4000lbs of tractor weight are mis matched with the anemic lifting capabilities. I got the sense that I am not the only 1850 owner who has this issue. But that was never said outright. And I am pretty abusive of this tractor.

My biggest concern is that i put this on then damage something really expensive.

 

[J_J]

If you guys look at post #6 close. you will see that is about the weakest link in the setup, and was not designed to fail. Nobody would design something to fail first. You build it to last. PT happened to chose a weak joint, and this has been further compounded by several weldings, maybe not so good . You don't even need a swivel joint for the rollover link. About the only place that you see that is on the 3pt, and then then you can tighten up on the side links to steady the load. You do not want something to break when you have that expensive machinery you are trying to move, or that load of wet clay, etc. especially working around people.

If you are going to use the same rollover link, at least add two 1/2 thick by 2 in wide steel about 6 in long. along side the shaft, with holes drilled out.

If you want strength, do this. Find some DOM tubing with an inside diameter of 3/4, with a wall thickness of 1/4. Cut it to the width of the inside legs, about 2 in. Find some steel the length you need, and 2 in wide, either 3/4 or 1 in thick, or two 1/2 steel pieces. Cut a 1 1/4 in hole in the steel at each end and weld in the DOM tubing, then drill for a grease fitting. Then you can be satisfied that something else will break before this rollover link.

 

[BobRip]

When I was greasing my rollover arms today, I noticed grease coming out between the rollover arms just inside the weld. Looks like the tube is cracked. The outside welds look good. Should I.

1. Continue to enjoy and use the PT and wait for it to fully fail.
2. Put in a new rollover arm assembly.
3. Weld some plates between the arms to strengthen it.
4. Something else.

 

[MossRoad]

Can you get a picture, Bob?

 

[BobRip]

Can you get a picture, Bob?

Can't find the camera, but borrowed nephews. See attached. The break is on the left side between the two arms. You can see a little grease oozing out. It looks like I could weld a plate between the two arms and strengthen this.

 

[J_J]

Bob,

It remember someone else replaced their rollover link with a newer assembly, that was had a thicker center and wall thickness.

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

It remember someone else replaced their rollover link with a newer assembly, that was had a thicker center and wall thickness.

That would be best, I am sure. It looks like you have to do a lot of grinding of welds to remove it. Is this correct?