Clarke
Silver Member
Cut pin flush with arms with a cut off wheel. Ground the rest of weld and removed pin. Installed new assembly shimmed for the clearance I wanted between the arms and rollover tube welded and cut off excess pin.
sg
Anyone have problems with the Rollover Link
- Thread starter woodlandfarms
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Cut pin flush with arms with a cut off wheel. Ground the rest of weld and removed pin. Installed new assembly shimmed for the clearance I wanted between the arms and rollover tube welded and cut off excess pin.
sg
Clarke
Silver Member
Bob,
Trying to fix it is a waste of time it will continue to break and you will most likely end up bending the pin. I know because I did all of above.
sg
BobRip
Elite Member
Can you describe or show pictures of how you reinforced it. I am about an hour away from completion, so no big deal to finish. Maybe I should do more than I am. Details of your attempts would help.
BobRip
Elite Member
You are probably right from your description. I will finish what I started and them monitor. Can't hurt but so much.
Everyone, thanks for the input. I now believe I should replace it, but just for the sport, I gotta try this.
Edit: I layed some parts in place to show what I am doing. I am putting two pieces of 3/8 inch metal (2 inches wide) between the arms and then one on each side of the arms.
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woodlandfarms
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2006
- Messages
- 6,137
- Location
- Los Angeles / SW Washington
- Tractor
- PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
Just so it has been said, put some sort of shield down where all that grass is at. It is how I caught my PT on fire... Not cleaning before welding...
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 58,014
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Or at least get the video camera rolling before starting. :laughing:
Bob,
That repair looks like it may work. Just be sure to make sure the links all have free movement and your bucket has full range of motion before you weld it solid.
BobRip
Elite Member
Thanks for that tip. I will also be having some welding mats around. I will clean first of course.
BobRip
Elite Member
Thanks Moss. Good idea. I checked it visually, but I will check after tacking them on.Or at least get the video camera rolling before starting. :laughing:
Bob,
That repair looks like it may work. Just be sure to make sure the links all have free movement and your bucket has full range of motion before you weld it solid.
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 58,014
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Good. Cycle the bucket to full dump and curl with the bucket lowered all the way.
Then do it again in the middle and then again with the FEL arms all the way up.
The geometry changes as you raise and lower the FEL arms.
Well, the geometry probably actually stays exactly the same, but math is confusing to me. :laughing:
KentT
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2005
- Messages
- 2,928
- Location
- Sevierville, TN
- Tractor
- 1993 Power Trac 1430 w/Kubota diesel engine
Bob,
I don't have any pics. Mine was breaking at the outside of the left one of those two flat arms, facing the tractor.
The first time, we simply rewelded it with a heavy bead. The second time, we added a triangular gusset between the arm and the tube. The third time, we added larger gussets, now on both sides of the tube, two on each flat arm.
When I pulled that pin out, it was BADLY worn (even though we'd kept it greased) and bent/bowed about 3/8" or so in the center. The tube was apparently binding on the bent pin, and the hydraulics were so strong that something had to give...
Very large forces are placed on that single rollover point -- for example if you lift the front of the tractor off the ground with the bucket, that entire weight is focused right there on the rollover, and multiplied by the mechanical leverage involved...