Anyone have worklights installed on their L2800/L3400?

[mjfox6]

mjfox6, I have an L4400 with similar wires under the fender. I have a couple of questions for you and others about this set up:

Is the wire that comes with the factory work lamp long enough to get it up higher on the rops?

What turns the light on and off? Is it just the headlight switch?

For you electrical guys out there, would this factory wiring allow for two lights on each side or would the amp requirements be too high? (And for the record, I know nothing about electricity and use the word 'amp' the same way most of us might use the word esophagogastroduodenoscopy).

I did not install it, so I do not know if they cut the wires to length or if they came with the plug already installed. The light has a switch on the back of it, so you can turn it on any time you want (Not sure if the key has to be on or not). I've used it bushhogging backwards into tight spaces at night and it does a good job, even though it is mounted just above the fender.

I defer on the electrical question...

 

[canoetrpr]

I've got the same questions types of questions as George.

I was thinking that I'd like to do two lights in the back and two in the front. The factory setup looks good for the rear and I figure that it will be easy to install.

Does the factory setup draw power for each of the lamps separately - two hot wires - one from under each fender? Trying to figure out if I can hook in front lamps into the same circuit.

I'd rather do the front ones on top of the ROPS.

I talked to a dealer who was telling me that aftermarket lamps were about $40 a piece so I could potentially get 4 aftermarket ones (2 front, 2 back) for $160.

Do you think that anybody remotely skilled in tractor electricals could handle this (like the used tractor dealer down the road from me) or is this something I might have to take it into the dealer for? Would much prefer to avoid the trucking charge.

 

[N80]

I did not install it, so I do not know if they cut the wires to length or if they came with the plug already installed. The light has a switch on the back of it, so you can turn it on any time you want (Not sure if the key has to be on or not). I've used it bushhogging backwards into tight spaces at night and it does a good job, even though it is mounted just above the fender.

I defer on the electrical question...

Could you do a little test for me?

First, turn the rear work light switch on with the tractor off, key out, headlights off.

If it doesn't come on, try it with key in and tractor on.

If it still doesn't come on turn headlight switch on.

In other words, I'd like to know when that wire is hot. If it is always hot, I'll need some sort of switch. I was hoping it was just the headlight switch that sent power to this wire.

 

[stevevdw]

I ran a 8 or 10 ga. wire from the battery up inside the ROPS post & installed a fuse & power block under the canopy. I mounted Trapezoids on the front & a Flood on the back with some self-tapping bolts to the ROPS frame. I mounted a switch up there for the work lights. I also now have power up there so I can mount my future radio under the canopy one of these days. The ROPS canopy does a great job protecting the lights from trees & the weather. I think the lights & wire ect. were less than $100 at TSC. Good luck to you.

 

[StrangeRanger]

If you have one locally, West Marine is a great place for lights too. They are usually cheaper than a TSC type store and they are weather proof out of the box.
j

 

[wushaw]

I Just took some pictures of my Light install.
The key only has to be on to supply power to the lights.

 

[N80]

I Just took some pictures of my Light install.
The key only has to be on to supply power to the lights.

That looks like what I want to do. But, I'm still confused (I'm easily confused). It looks like you are wired right into those leads under the fenders, one to each light. I did not see an additional switch, so how do you turn them on and off? Do they come on every time you turn the key to on?

 

[canoetrpr]

Thanks a whole bunch wushaw. I have the same questions as George

 

[mjfox6]

Could you do a little test for me?

First, turn the rear work light switch on with the tractor off, key out, headlights off.

If it doesn't come on, try it with key in and tractor on.

If it still doesn't come on turn headlight switch on.

In other words, I'd like to know when that wire is hot. If it is always hot, I'll need some sort of switch. I was hoping it was just the headlight switch that sent power to this wire.

The key must be in the on position (the tractor does not have to be running) for the work light to work. You still have to flip the switch on the work light, but it is independent of the headlight switch.

FYI, the key must also be on for the headlights and blinkers to work, however, the hazard lights work without the key. (My girlfriend is very thorough when is comes to testing lights!)

 

[wushaw]

That looks like what I want to do. But, I'm still confused (I'm easily confused). It looks like you are wired right into those leads under the fenders, one to each light. I did not see an additional switch, so how do you turn them on and off? Do they come on every time you turn the key to on?

I am wired to the wires right under the fenders, the r/h side for the rear light and l/h for the ft.
Look at picture 33 there is a switch on on each side under the canopy.