Anyone have worklights installed on their L2800/L3400?

[N80]

I am wired to the wires right under the fenders, the r/h side for the rear light and l/h for the ft.
Look at picture 33 there is a switch on on each side under the canopy.

Okay, I see it now. I was hoping that would not be necessary. I was hoping that the headlight switch would be the on/off for these accessory lights. Oh well, its not that big a deal to add switches, I was just hoping I would not have to.

 

[bigballer]

the work light fuse is only 10A so running 2 55 watt lights to it would likely overheat the wire and blow the fuse. i'm guessing the kubota work lights are 30W?

Clenhart - i was thinking about adding my switches just to the right of the light switch but think i like the location you chose better.you also added relays which i was planning but was just going to use one 30A relay.

Casco - is that a "TractorSunshade"? Can i ask how much they cost?

 

[clenhart]

Clenhart - i was thinking about adding my switches just to the right of the light switch but think i like the location you chose better.you also added relays which i was planning but was just going to use one 30A relay.

One relay will work fine. The only reason I used 2 was for independent control of the front and rear lights.

Don't forget the rubber switch covers. The first switches I put in got water in them after a big rain and shorted out.

 

[bigballer]

One relay will work fine. The only reason I used 2 was for independent control of the front and rear lights.

Don't forget the rubber switch covers. The first switches I put in got water in them after a big rain and shorted out.

i definately want independant control so will do 2, they're cheap. i am looking at some marine switches but they seem to be pretty spendy, i know that Napa does have all weather switches but haven't had a chance to stop in to check them out yet.. was thinking rocker style but will get whatever is available in the all-weather design..

 

[N80]

Okay, we're hearing different things about what will and will not run on the factory run worklight circuit.

But, if all you have to do is ad a relay, then I might go for that. But, I don't know what a relay is. Is it just an in-line fuse that I can add between the factory wire ends and the light? If so, does it matter where I put the switch?

Wushaw, I did not notice a relay in your system. What wattage are your lights? Have you had any problems shorting the work light fuse?

 

[bigballer]

Okay, we're hearing different things about what will and will not run on the factory run worklight circuit.

But, if all you have to do is ad a relay, then I might go for that. But, I don't know what a relay is. Is it just an in-line fuse that I can add between the factory wire ends and the light? If so, does it matter where I put the switch?

Wushaw, I did not notice a relay in your system. What wattage are your lights? Have you had any problems shorting the work light fuse?

N80 - check out this active thread, kenny has posted some really helpful information on relays, etc..

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/108379-worklights-4510-a.html

 

[N80]

I have, thanks. I'm too much of an electricity dim wit to even follow it. I'm either going to have to get 'paint-by-numbers' help or either get a friend to help me with this.

Funny thing is, I am fairly mechanically inclined. I can even solder fairly well. So I can do the work, I just don't know what needs to be done and don't know the terms. For instance, when someone says they just run something off of the fuse box, I have no idea how to do that. I remember putting a radio in my truck (as a kid) and just holding a wire across where the fuse slot and pushing the fuse in so that it was crimped in place. I'm assuming that is not a good practive for something like this.

In any case, I have a shop manual for my tractor and I'm going to give that a look. I'm also going to get the specs on the alternator and take a look at the fuse box this weekend so I'll at least know my way around my tractor.

Once I've done that, I may get one of you guys to give me an idiot proof step by step. It sounds to me that the simplest way to do this is to come off of the battery. I don't know what that entails but I'm assuming it means that I run a line from the battery to a relay (or fuse) then to a switch and then to the light.

 

[canoetrpr]

One relay will work fine. The only reason I used 2 was for independent control of the front and rear lights.

clenhart - that is a very nice setup you've got there. That is pretty much EXACTLY what I am looking for.

Let me ask you some really silly questions.

- How big is the relay and where is it mounted - under the black console cover somewhere? I imagine that you had to take the black console cover off to do this. Anything I should be watching out for when doing this?

- How do you locate which lead off the key switch is hot when the switch is ON to use as the trigger voltage for the relay? I imagine I will need a multimeter for this?

- The black cover is plastic. How did you drill through it to get the switches installed? I'm afraid I will crack it by drilling?

- How did you manage to hide the wires going back to the lights so well? How did you route them? Are they inside the ROPS?

Much appreciate the time you have taken to post.

 

[clenhart]

clenhart - that is a very nice setup you've got there. That is pretty much EXACTLY what I am looking for.

Let me ask you some really silly questions.

- How big is the relay and where is it mounted - under the black console cover somewhere? I imagine that you had to take the black console cover off to do this. Anything I should be watching out for when doing this?

- How do you locate which lead off the key switch is hot when the switch is ON to use as the trigger voltage for the relay? I imagine I will need a multimeter for this?

- The black cover is plastic. How did you drill through it to get the switches installed? I'm afraid I will crack it by drilling?

- How did you manage to hide the wires going back to the lights so well? How did you route them? Are they inside the ROPS?

Much appreciate the time you have taken to post.

1- I used 30 Amp bosch relays. They are small black plastic housing relays about an inch square with male spade type connectors. I used zip ties to mount them behind the dash panel. The only thing to be careful of is un-plugging the tachometer cable from the back of the instrument cluster when removing. It is easy to do just a little tight getting your hand in there.

2- I used the work light circuit to trigger the relays. You can tie into the wire right where it comes out of the fuse box.

3- I used a step type drill bit that I got from (you guessed it Harbor Freight). It worked real well, but the plastic is thick enough and flexible enough that I wouldn't hesitate to use a standard drill bit.

4- I used black plastic split loom (available from harbor freight) to route the wires in and routed them along the center hump, up under the seat, and then followed a factory wire harness up to the ROPS. Under the canopy, I used self adhesive zip tie mounts with a little RTV added for extra security to provide tie points for the wire loom. There is a factory wire loom that can be utilized to route the wires to the battery that runs along the driver side from the fuse box. By the way... The wire I used was a roll of 14g trailer light wire (Wal-mart). It is 4 conductors in a flat side by side arrangement and worked out great for this application.

Hope this helps...

if I can provide any more info let me know.

Chip

 

[wushaw]

Okay, we're hearing different things about what will and will not run on the factory run worklight circuit.

But, if all you have to do is ad a relay, then I might go for that. But, I don't know what a relay is. Is it just an in-line fuse that I can add between the factory wire ends and the light? If so, does it matter where I put the switch?

Wushaw, I did not notice a relay in your system. What wattage are your lights? Have you had any problems shorting the work light fuse?

I did not use a relay for my lights, I have only needed to use one at a time anyway so it works for my uses.
I think the lights are 55w.
A relay is a device that is used to carry the load.