Anyone have worklights installed on their L2800/L3400?

[canoetrpr]

I did not use a relay for my lights, I have only needed to use one at a time anyway so it works for my uses.
I think the lights are 55w.
A relay is a device that is used to carry the load.

If one limits themselves to two 55W lights then I don't think a relay is required at all as in your setup. Nor is any special wiring - the worklight circuit does fine upto 10A which 2 55W don't draw more than.

I think for setups like the one I was planning to get - like clenhart has here - 4 55W in total new wiring from the battery with relays is required. bigballer has a nice wiring diagram in the other thread under customization.

 

[bigballer]

i tested my worklight wires (hanging under the rear fenders) and it seems they are on when the key is on, i would think having them switched with the headlights would be better but i am not planning on using them, i just wanted to test a 4x6 trap light i got, seems the pattern is tight, was hoping for something more spread out, i'll test a flood light next. i ordered a couple oval 100 hella's and they should be here later this week so we'll see how those work out. tonight i installed my lead from the battery with the fuse holder, i am not really happy with how i secured the fuse holder but the wiring to the terminal went well. If anyone has a better way of doing this let me know! i am going to run the wiring through the factory conduit that leads to the starter and into the fuse panel area. i'll add some conduit at each end to protect the wiring. i decided to get some trailer wire (14g) with a rubber disconnect for the light end of the wiring, i'll place the connector under the fender and use the hanger for the factory lighting to hold it in place. i am thinking of using a piece of u shaped metal to mount the lights to, that way i can run all the wiring in the channel and then down the ROPS to the connector. I suppose I'll use some black zip ties to secure the conduit to the rops, not sure how i'll connect the mounting bar, maybe with u-bolts or something, i don't really want to drill any holes in the rops but would like it as clean looking as possible. also having the ability to take the light bar off if needed would be a plus. anyway attached are a couple pics of my connection to the battery terminal.

 

[canoetrpr]

clenhart, bigballer:

I have managed to locate all parts for the project except bosch relays. There seem to be a few kinds.

If you remember where you sourced them from, can you post here - or post a link to a relay that will work for this application if you can find one.

 

[canoetrpr]

For example, will this work?

I imagine I should be getting relays and relay sockets also?

What is the difference between SPST and SPDT?

Are relays absolutely required?

 

[TalonDancer]

...What is the difference between SPST and SPDT?

Are relays absolutely required?

SPST = Single Pole Single Throw
SPDT= Single Pole Dual Throw

Relays are used so that a low amp circuit can control a higher amp circuit. This reduces the "load" on the switch which actuates the relay which makes the connection between the power source and the real load (e.g. the work lights).

IOW you can use a low amp switch to control a high amp circuit.

Talon Dancer

 

[canoetrpr]

bigballer:

How did you end up finally routing the wire from the battery?

One conduit goes under the rad to the starter. Looks like there is room to add another conduit there and then to bring it up to the fuse box area and take it down under the center hump.

The other goes through on the side through tight space only big enough for that one conduit. Not sure if the conduit has enough room to accomodate another wire.

Another interesting tidbit. I was thinking about the most hassle free place to install switches and noticed that there is a 15/32 diameter (measured by tape) hole on each fender beside each rear flasher light. Seems like toggle switches from westmarine like this one require a 15/32 sized hole! I'm thinking of putting one switch on each fender, with marine boots like clenhart pointed us to - one for the rear lights and one for the front. A relay can be secured under each fender and the hot wire that can be used to switch the relay can simply be the worklight circuit which happens to be right under there also.

Any thoughts on this plan?

 

[clenhart]

I would think the switch contacts and wiring would be very vulnerable on the under side of the fender.

 

[bigballer]

Here are some pics of my wiring off the battery - 10gauge wrapped in split loom, you can see it's the darker, newer looking loom. i wanted to run it in the same loom that's already in place but would have required cutting electrical tape, etc so i just ran a new one along side it.

 

[bigballer]

the wiring that runs from the relay (which i mounted behind the dashboard) is housed inside the loom as well. this runs from behind the panel, down alongside the fusebox, then under the middle floor cover (which I removed to run the wiring), then it follows along the seat to the left hand side where it terminates at a 4 wire trailer hookup.

down from dashboard to the floorboard:


coming out the other end of the floorboard:


trailer hookup held in place with industrial velcro wrap, this allows for easy removal of the lightbar (seen later), if needed:


Lightbar, mind you this is Version 1.0 - i don't like the bar and am now looking at changing this out to a unistrut. it works i just don't like the looks of it. all wiring runs through the loom and connects to the trailer hookup.


down the side of the rops:


switches:


while i was at the parts store (schucks) getting my relay i found a weather rated 12v plug i decided to throw in, so i could use my highpowered spotlight, works awesome.


the 12v plug is connected to the worklight ckt under the righthand fender, i have since moved it so it runs through the protected hole on the fender:

 

[bigballer]

For example, will this work?

I imagine I should be getting relays and relay sockets also?

that looks like what i have except mine were 4x more but i didn't have to pay for shipping. i would have liked to use the socket but the one which is power from the battery is only 14g (i think) so i just wired up female spade connectors and went with it.. i got mine at schucks.