Attachment shed

[Coyote machine]

Here's my implement shed build. A lot of it won't apply to the OP's needs but some ideas may be useful. Take what you need from it, leave the rest.
Note the pics links were broken, then I fixed them, now they seem broken again - sorry....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/378241-implement-shed-build-pics.html

 

[goeduck]

Was not planning on concrete. Just a gravel floor. I don't really need dollies the skid steer can move anything around either attached or with pallet forks.

I already have around 8300 SQ feet of shop space with 10' or higher ceilings. This shed will strictly be for implements, none of which are over 5' tall - most less than 4'. I certainly don't want to make a mistake and build it too short but I am not seeing why it should be taller than 7-8 foot? Also I am using steel not lumber. The sheets are ordered cut to length.

I think along your lines. A row of attachments that you can grab and go in a long narrow shed. Skid steer attachments do not need to be perfectly flat when you pick them up so concrete is nice but not required.

 

[bdog]

Suit yourself... but a concrete floor (along with your implements on dollies) will maximise the number of implements that you can store in a single bay. In the first picture (below) there's a slasher, then a tiller, the 4-in1 bucket and a fertiliser spreader... all 'scrunched' together, yet easily accessible.

Also, putting in a concrete floor before building the shed is less expensive (and less of a hassle) than doing it after the fact.

I don’t disagree your method would allow you to pack your implements in there like sardines but then they require getting out and rolling them around to attach them. My skid steer has a hydraulic latch mechanism and unless I have hoses to attach I can attach and detach things without leaving the seat. I often change implements multiple times a day and never leave the seat. The reason I want to build the shed so wide is so that the implements are all readily available to be attached without having to wrestle them around.

The concrete would certainly be nice but would add 50% to the total cost of the project. I am not sure it it is worth it. I have never had problems attaching things just sitting outside on bare ground over the years I just wish they were out of the elements. I don’t think it would cost more to add it after the fact. One of my buildings the 30x40 was here when I bought the place and it had a dirt floor. I had concrete poured in it and the concrete guys charged me the same per square foot as they did on my new construction.

 

[bdog]

Being that you plan to build 100' long, I dont think I would worry about how efficiently packed the building becomes. A concrete floor would make hooking 3pt equipment easier.

my experience with metal roofing is the ridge cap can be expensive. have you considered making the front 10' and the back 7'?

I was planning a single pitched roof. 7’ on low side, 8’ on high side -to the bottom of the roof framing.

 

[FTG-05]

Here's my implement shed build. A lot of it won't apply to the OP's needs but some ideas may be useful. Take what you need from it, leave the rest.
Note the pics links were broken, then I fixed them, now they seem broken again - sorry....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/378241-implement-shed-build-pics.html

Would love to see it! The only link that worked in that thread was the AK slab link. Zero pics to be seen here.

 

[flingwing1969]

The concrete would certainly be nice but would add 50% to the total cost of the project. I am not sure it it is worth it. . . . I don’t think it would cost more to add it after the fact. One of my buildings the 30x40 was here when I bought the place and it had a dirt floor. I had concrete poured in it and the concrete guys charged me the same per square foot as they did on my new construction.

Certainly true. I have a similar situation with a shed on the side of a building, water pools on the ground and makes it a bit sloppy but certainly not a real problem.

 

[flingwing1969]

I was planning a single pitched roof. 7’ on low side, 8’ on high side -to the bottom of the roof framing.

While it is easy and cost effective to add concrete later, the same cannot be said for adding height to your building. The slight additional cost of going up on both front and back (if the adjoining building will accommodate it, of course) is worth doing as it will give you a lot more flexibility in the future.

The shed roof is a good design and will be easy to roof in metal, I've done several, you should flash where it meets the existing building, of course, but that is a very minor additional expense. Your pitch is fairly low, however, going up one foot in 12 feed, a 1/12 pitch is less than an exposed screw metal roof's approved pitch of 3/12. I had a small barn that had an adjoining covered section that was a bit under pitch and it still worked but, if you ever think you might want to do more with the "shed" than put implements in it, I would go to a 3/12 at least or you will experience reduced roof life and probable leaks.

 

[FTG-05]

Certainly true. I have a similar situation with a shed on the side of a building, water pools on the ground and makes it a bit sloppy but certainly not a real problem.

So what's the minimum slope of the concrete to prevent *most* of the water pooling?

I've heard 1/4" per foot, perhaps 1/8" per foot. 1/4" per foot would be 2.5" over a 10' deep shed; seems extreme, but what do I know?

 

[flingwing1969]

So what's the minimum slope of the concrete to prevent *most* of the water pooling?

I've heard 1/4" per foot, perhaps 1/8" per foot. 1/4" per foot would be 2.5" over a 10' deep shed; seems extreme, but what do I know?

Not much, much less than what you post, which is related to drain and waste. Just so it is sloped away from the attached building a bit it will be fine. 1/8" per running foot is the usual for a concrete patio butting up to a building, but your shed would be roofed and so only windblown precip will be inside and likely won't even reach 12' feet.

 

[dragoneggs]

So what's the minimum slope of the concrete to prevent *most* of the water pooling?

I've heard 1/4" per foot, perhaps 1/8" per foot. 1/4" per foot would be 2.5" over a 10' deep shed; seems extreme, but what do I know?

I would go with 1/8in but you definitely want that as a minimum slope. Nice to be able to hose down the pad to clean off the debris even if it won't get wet by rains and have it drain off. You definitely don't want to have to squeegee off standing water. 1/4in bugs me. It is noticeable.