Attachment shed

[FTG-05]

Suit yourself... but a concrete floor (along with your implements on dollies) will maximise the number of implements that you can store in a single bay. In the first picture (below) there's a slasher, then a tiller, the 4-in1 bucket and a fertiliser spreader... all 'scrunched' together, yet easily accessible.

Also, putting in a concrete floor before building the shed is less expensive (and less of a hassle) than doing it after the fact.

Pretty cool organization and implement storage!

Where did you get your wheels for the pallets, what is their capacity, size, etc?

Thanks!

 

[Wagtail]

Pretty cool organization and implement storage!

Where did you get your wheels for the pallets, what is their capacity, size, etc?

Thanks!

Ta Mate! I purchased the wheels from "Bunnings", which is an Aussie large homeware/hardware store. I believe that you would call them a 'big box store'. I just found the relevant aisle and bin... plastic wheels and the 'load capacity' was written on the bin. I went for the maximum. 3 of the four wheels are free-wheeling and the 4th is lockable (brake) although I've rarely had to employ the brake. All of the wheels are 360 degree (ball bearing) swivels.

I just wandered out to the shed and the only markings are on the blue wheel - 100X36... what ever that means. :confused3:

 

[rbtjr]

I agree with the suggestions for at least an 8' entrance. Maybe higher. That decision is probably a "now or never" one, so I would err on the side of being sure to have enough height. Based on our experience, I would spend the money to put concrete floors under all of the storage area. We store all of our implements/attachments on dollies (thanks to the suggestion on TBN). I think that using dollies for storage might allow you to use a much smaller implement-shelter footprint and allow you to use the savings to pay for the concrete floor. For the dollies, if you go that route, I use mostly 5" or 6" casters that I buy on Craigslist, casters with bearings. I use Fluid Film to lube the caster bearings on the dollies for implements we keep under 48' of a 60' X 20' roof-only shelter (which is a roof-only extension of one 60' side of our shed/shop). Thus far I have had no problem moving implements around easily so I can store them to save space and still be able to move the implements as necessary to be able to hook them up. That's another thought: For implement storage, I think I would rather have a 50' X 20' shelter than a 100' X 12' shelter, both being three-sided, but only if I had concrete floors. That way I could move away from the side that is exposed to the weather the implements that most need the shelter from the weather. However you go, best wishes with it.

 

[FTG-05]

Ta Mate! I purchased the wheels from "Bunnings", which is an Aussie large homeware/hardware store. I believe that you would call them a 'big box store'. I just found the relevant aisle and bin... plastic wheels and the 'load capacity' was written on the bin. I went for the maximum. 3 of the four wheels are free-wheeling and the 4th is lockable (brake) although I've rarely had to employ the brake. All of the wheels are 360 degree (ball bearing) swivels.

I just wandered out to the shed and the only markings are on the blue wheel - 100X36... what ever that means. :confused3:

Thanks for the info! "100x36" perhaps means the diameter (100 mm) and wheel width (36mm)?

 

[flingwing1969]

2x

Seven foot will shortly prove to be a major headache - in more ways than one. Ten foot plywood and lumber is readily available, so cost will be minimal. You'll thank yourself for the extra height.

Me? I built mine 14', with no regrets. But that was a bit overkill. Ten foot would have been pretty much just right.

Mine is 16' high along the 48' length of my barn and I find that rain is easily driven in at that height - not a big issue but enough that I'm going to put a shed roof along its length that will protrude out 8' or so and should divert much of the rain - and also provide an extended drip edge for the snow (not something you likely have to contend with too often). The extra height is nice, besides for entry, as I have built "upstairs" storage along the wall of the barn for those less-often-used items that usually take up floor space.

 

[flingwing1969]

Suit yourself... but a concrete floor (along with your implements on dollies) will maximise the number of implements that you can store in a single bay. In the first picture (below) there's a slasher, then a tiller, the 4-in1 bucket and a fertiliser spreader... all 'scrunched' together, yet easily accessible.

Also, putting in a concrete floor before building the shed is less expensive (and less of a hassle) than doing it after the fact.

I have to agree - a concrete floor will be GREATLY appreciated in the future. You will want to insure a slight slope away from the building your shed is built against though - think building a front sitting porch on your house. Nice way to handle the attachments BTW.

Also - as with many of these things, you might later decide that enclosing part of the shed would be useful and you would be ready to do that. I'm in the process of enclosing 24' of mine that I find I don't need for attachments (some can be easily left outside without have (rear blade, ROBB, landscape rake, snow bucket, etc) and I could really use some extra space for my welding shop.

 

[FTG-05]

I have to agree - a concrete floor will be GREATLY appreciated in the future. You will want to insure a slight slope away from the building your shed is built against though - think building a front sitting porch on your house. Nice way to handle the attachments BTW.

Also - as with many of these things, you might later decide that enclosing part of the shed would be useful and you would be ready to do that. I'm in the process of enclosing 24' of mine that I find I don't need for attachments (some can be easily left outside without have (rear blade, ROBB, landscape rake, snow bucket, etc) and I could really use some extra space for my welding shop.

You two are gonna cost me money, you wait and see!!!!

 

[dragoneggs]

Suit yourself... but a concrete floor (along with your implements on dollies) will maximise the number of implements that you can store in a single bay. In the first picture (below) there's a slasher, then a tiller, the 4-in1 bucket and a fertiliser spreader... all 'scrunched' together, yet easily accessible.

Also, putting in a concrete floor before building the shed is less expensive (and less of a hassle) than doing it after the fact.

Wag, nice looking shed. I would consider giving my left ******** for that much flat ground to build a decent shed/shop!

 

[Redlands Okie]

Some suggested building it taller. I would suggest perhaps 10 ft at the front. Just in case you might need the height at a later date. Your concerned about letting in more weather since it’s higher.
It would be easy at this point to build it higher than you think you need and simply put in a 2 or 3 ft tall wall at the TOP of the opening. Yes it means your going to have to buy a bit more tin, roughly 34 sheets lets say 3 ft long and then the material to run horizontally at the 7 ft height and some screws. A minor cost at this time and easy to remove or adjust if needed at a later date. This gets your 7 ft opening and the 3 ft tall wall above it allows room for changes. Also stiffens up the front of the shed roof since your basically building a header out of your sheet metal. Still leaves a nice looking shed.

 

[flingwing1969]

You two are gonna cost me money, you wait and see!!!!

:laughing:

 

[Coyote machine]

Here's my implement shed build. A lot of it won't apply to the OP's needs but some ideas may be useful. Take what you need from it, leave the rest.
Note the pics links were broken, then I fixed them, now they seem broken again - sorry....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/378241-implement-shed-build-pics.html

 

[goeduck]

Was not planning on concrete. Just a gravel floor. I don't really need dollies the skid steer can move anything around either attached or with pallet forks.

I already have around 8300 SQ feet of shop space with 10' or higher ceilings. This shed will strictly be for implements, none of which are over 5' tall - most less than 4'. I certainly don't want to make a mistake and build it too short but I am not seeing why it should be taller than 7-8 foot? Also I am using steel not lumber. The sheets are ordered cut to length.

I think along your lines. A row of attachments that you can grab and go in a long narrow shed. Skid steer attachments do not need to be perfectly flat when you pick them up so concrete is nice but not required.

 

[bdog]

Suit yourself... but a concrete floor (along with your implements on dollies) will maximise the number of implements that you can store in a single bay. In the first picture (below) there's a slasher, then a tiller, the 4-in1 bucket and a fertiliser spreader... all 'scrunched' together, yet easily accessible.

Also, putting in a concrete floor before building the shed is less expensive (and less of a hassle) than doing it after the fact.

I don’t disagree your method would allow you to pack your implements in there like sardines but then they require getting out and rolling them around to attach them. My skid steer has a hydraulic latch mechanism and unless I have hoses to attach I can attach and detach things without leaving the seat. I often change implements multiple times a day and never leave the seat. The reason I want to build the shed so wide is so that the implements are all readily available to be attached without having to wrestle them around.

The concrete would certainly be nice but would add 50% to the total cost of the project. I am not sure it it is worth it. I have never had problems attaching things just sitting outside on bare ground over the years I just wish they were out of the elements. I don’t think it would cost more to add it after the fact. One of my buildings the 30x40 was here when I bought the place and it had a dirt floor. I had concrete poured in it and the concrete guys charged me the same per square foot as they did on my new construction.

 

[bdog]

Being that you plan to build 100' long, I dont think I would worry about how efficiently packed the building becomes. A concrete floor would make hooking 3pt equipment easier.

my experience with metal roofing is the ridge cap can be expensive. have you considered making the front 10' and the back 7'?

I was planning a single pitched roof. 7’ on low side, 8’ on high side -to the bottom of the roof framing.

 

[FTG-05]

Here's my implement shed build. A lot of it won't apply to the OP's needs but some ideas may be useful. Take what you need from it, leave the rest.
Note the pics links were broken, then I fixed them, now they seem broken again - sorry....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/378241-implement-shed-build-pics.html

Would love to see it! The only link that worked in that thread was the AK slab link. Zero pics to be seen here.

 

[flingwing1969]

The concrete would certainly be nice but would add 50% to the total cost of the project. I am not sure it it is worth it. . . . I don’t think it would cost more to add it after the fact. One of my buildings the 30x40 was here when I bought the place and it had a dirt floor. I had concrete poured in it and the concrete guys charged me the same per square foot as they did on my new construction.

Certainly true. I have a similar situation with a shed on the side of a building, water pools on the ground and makes it a bit sloppy but certainly not a real problem.

 

[flingwing1969]

I was planning a single pitched roof. 7’ on low side, 8’ on high side -to the bottom of the roof framing.

While it is easy and cost effective to add concrete later, the same cannot be said for adding height to your building. The slight additional cost of going up on both front and back (if the adjoining building will accommodate it, of course) is worth doing as it will give you a lot more flexibility in the future.

The shed roof is a good design and will be easy to roof in metal, I've done several, you should flash where it meets the existing building, of course, but that is a very minor additional expense. Your pitch is fairly low, however, going up one foot in 12 feed, a 1/12 pitch is less than an exposed screw metal roof's approved pitch of 3/12. I had a small barn that had an adjoining covered section that was a bit under pitch and it still worked but, if you ever think you might want to do more with the "shed" than put implements in it, I would go to a 3/12 at least or you will experience reduced roof life and probable leaks.

 

[FTG-05]

Certainly true. I have a similar situation with a shed on the side of a building, water pools on the ground and makes it a bit sloppy but certainly not a real problem.

So what's the minimum slope of the concrete to prevent *most* of the water pooling?

I've heard 1/4" per foot, perhaps 1/8" per foot. 1/4" per foot would be 2.5" over a 10' deep shed; seems extreme, but what do I know?

 

[flingwing1969]

So what's the minimum slope of the concrete to prevent *most* of the water pooling?

I've heard 1/4" per foot, perhaps 1/8" per foot. 1/4" per foot would be 2.5" over a 10' deep shed; seems extreme, but what do I know?

Not much, much less than what you post, which is related to drain and waste. Just so it is sloped away from the attached building a bit it will be fine. 1/8" per running foot is the usual for a concrete patio butting up to a building, but your shed would be roofed and so only windblown precip will be inside and likely won't even reach 12' feet.

 

[dragoneggs]

So what's the minimum slope of the concrete to prevent *most* of the water pooling?

I've heard 1/4" per foot, perhaps 1/8" per foot. 1/4" per foot would be 2.5" over a 10' deep shed; seems extreme, but what do I know?

I would go with 1/8in but you definitely want that as a minimum slope. Nice to be able to hose down the pad to clean off the debris even if it won't get wet by rains and have it drain off. You definitely don't want to have to squeegee off standing water. 1/4in bugs me. It is noticeable.